The 'E' Type Forum

Chris: The tubing Smiths supplies with a mechanical gauge is pliable, but strong, black plastic tubing that will never leak or break. Allows you to snake tubing into the cockpit via any one of several holes in the firewall. No trick to it, once you have pushed it thru, run up to behind instrument door. FYI...mechanical gauge looks just like the one you have now, so no worries. As it is flexible, you can open and close panel all day long, no problem. Trick is to leave a little extra, don't pull tubing tight. Won't bother anything. Now you will have accurate , fool proof oil pressure at all times. I have used this tubing for years, as have others, and never a problem. FYI forget what the manual said 50 years ago....when engine is warmed up, and all systems go, you will get 10lbs of oil pressure for every 1000 rpm's. Plus or minus 10%. Happy motoring !

JJ

well, its taken me nearly 3 hours to get the oil pressure switch removed, what a bastard place to put it, had to cut a 14mm spanner in half to get on it!!! still its off now and a new one has been ordered off e-bay.
I also removed the black panel holding the brake fluid reservoir on, could do with de-rusting and painting, will go for a satin black finish.

JJ - many thanks for your responses of Dec 31, much appreciated.

I contacted Nisonger by email to ask them a few questions including whether their mechanical oil pressure gauge has the same range as my current (presumably original factory fit) electrical gauge, i.e. 0 to 80 psi. I received the following response: "Sorry, but currently we only offer the 60 & 100 PSI Electric Oil Press Gauges displayed in the XKE Oil Press Gauge section of our website.Thank you for your inquiry. Peter Bayer"
Could you please advise:
1. a supplier who offers the 0 to 80 psi range mechanical OP gauge,
2. if that psi range of gauge is not available, what range you would recommend,
3. the description of the fitting required to replace the current electrical sensor (mine is located to the rear of the throttle capstan mounting) for the connection to the mechanical gauge,and
4. any further advice which you may have.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Chris

Very strange, as I got mine from those folks. I'll ask.

JC

JC - many thanks. Look forward to hearing from you.
All the best
Chris

Hi JC - just wanted to check if you have any news regarding the mechanical oil pressure gauge and the other questions which I asked?
Look forward to hearing from you either via the Forum or a PM.
All the best
Chris

Hi Chris : the mechanical gauge goes to 100, but you will not notice the difference from the electrical gauge your replacing....few minutes behind the wheel, and it all looks familiar. Mechanical sender fits in same location as electrical sender. When you get the whole kit, it will all make sense. Very easy to install. Flexible oil line so easy to work with.....just snake it thru firewall. Goodness knows their are enough holes...just make sure you put a grommet or some form of soft cover around line as you pass it into the cabin. Behind fold down instrument panel, leave extra oil line so it never gets pinched. Could not be easier. Don't waste your time looking for other then a 100lbs gauge for mechanical pressure indicator. Rather silly on Smiths part if you think about it.....oil pressure never goes anywhere near 100lbs ! LOL Good luck !

JC

I, too, have been searching for a mechanical oil pressure gauge for my Series III.

This gauge is listed at McWilkinson: C18641/1 OIL PRESSURE CAPILLARY GAUGE - 6 CYLINDER ENGINES
https://mcwilkinson.myshopify.com/produ ... lary-gauge
This is the closest I have found.
The good news is that in corresponding with Mike Bayer at McWilkinson he responded with: "This gauge was made for an E-Type S1/S2 car so the bezel is correct for those models. You can use this on a V12 model, however, the bezel will not match the ones on your other gauges but you can swap this from your existing gauge to the new gauge if you wish for them to match."

Alternatively, if you are a patient man I have asked Mr. Peter Bayer of Nisonger's every month since October 2018 for the status/price of an E-Type 100 PSI mechanical Oil Press Gauge they are developing. Each time his reply was they are expecting the gauge "next month". His latest reply (dated 06MAR19): "Our latest shipment from Smiths was picked up by DHL this morning and it does not include the mechanical Oil Press Gauges. No idea when."

I have a few more months before I begin my restoration in earnest, but suspect I'll end up purchasing from McWilkinson and swap bezels

Craig
Colorado Springs, CO
1972 Jaguar E-Type V12 OTS
UC1S20954

Hi all : Remember Peter is just a dealer, subject to the dictates of Smiths, but he is a good and decent vendor, and will do the best he can. As for the gauge, 60 or a hundred lbs indicated, take whatever is in stock, because in normal everyday use, even if you just installed the 60lbs unit, on very cold, cold mornings, the gauge will be pegged for just a bit till things warm up just a bit. Certainly 98% of your driving will never require a gauge reading that high. When cruising at 3000 rpm's, the gauge will read around 30lbs. On a spirited run up thru the gearbox, if the oil is not too warm, you might see 40lbs plus for a few seconds. Not going to see pressure much higher then that on a normal, healthy V12. Can't speak for the earlier sixes. Happy motoring !

JC

Does anyone know of the thread size of the oil pressure sender? So I can order a replacement for a mechanical piece to attach the hose.

Thanks

I bought this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-BSP-Male ... Swwz5azkzh

I have yet to fit it though.

My concern with this conversion is the very close proximity of the plastic oil pipe to the exhaust manifold and lack of fixing points to stop the pipe moving.

Has anyone actually converted an early V12 to mechanical gauge?

Kevin

I plan to go down this route, but seems a minefield with the different thread options etc.

I will be changing the exhaust so when the car is on the ramp will remove the lower exhaust downpipes to get better access.

Is it possible for someone to list what is required, sizes or part numbers etc?

Thanks

If you have brass fittings at either end, then you can simply solder up a copper capillary tube between them. To make sure you have no problems with vibration or having it go around corners, simply coil the capillary tube many times over. That's what I have on my car.

kind regards
Marek