Heating and ventilation

Talk about the E-Type Series 3
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JJC
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#21 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by JJC » Sat Jan 05, 2019 2:42 pm

Poor chap Martin simply want to heat the cabin of his E-Type. He was told simply how to accomplish this. But it seems some folks want to play semantics, suggest it might be something else, perhaps for no good reason then to see there words on this forum. How sad. Hot water goes up to the valve, if blocked (for the purpose of no heat), the water continues to circulate. Simple . How sad when a forum, available to help others, becomes a sounding board for self serving nonsense.

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lowact
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#22 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by lowact » Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:10 am

The water thru the heater is in a parallel path to the water thru the thermostats. The pressure differential across the thermostats is what pushes water thru the heater. If you take out yr thermostats it messes up the balance, frees up the flow through the thermostat housings so more of the water takes this route, reducing flow thru the heater. Consequence is a less effective heater. All the other suggestions may be more likely however u never know. One thing I really appreciate about this forum is the passion :bigrin:
Regards,
ColinL
'72 OTS manual V12

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Ole-xke1974
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#23 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by Ole-xke1974 » Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:47 pm

lowact wrote:
Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:10 am
One thing I really appreciate about this forum is the passion :bigrin:
:yeahthat: is for sure. One just have to navigate the obstacles :swerve:
1974 SIII E-Type w. XJ S2 4sp w. O/D

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Woly64
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#24 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by Woly64 » Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:07 am

I really appreciate all the input guys and the photograph in particular is very helpful. What is not helpful on my part (and probably frustrating on yours) is that I did not get chance this weekend to try out any of the suggestions so I'm afraid you are going to have to wait until next weekend for some feedback - apologies :shrug:
Martin

1971 Series 3 2+2
MTM RS6 Avant
S3 Sportsback
Polo 1.2S

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lowact
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#25 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by lowact » Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:26 am

WHAT??? You didn’t immediately rush out and pull yr heater apart till midnight? BH…
To test the cable to the water shut-off/reg valve (per JC): As explained. Operating the right control (Air hot-cold) needs to operate the valve full stroke.

To test the valve (per Ole, Steve): Need only drain a couple of litres out of the radiator, so you don’t spill too much coolant everywhere, anti-freeze dries to a chalky residue. Remove the two hoses from the valve, use a thin screwdriver to loosen (prise) the hoses a bit from the pipes so you can wiggle them off without excessive force. Using a short, tight-fitting hose, blow thru the valve. When the valve lever is fully CCW blowing should be easiest. If not: Valve adjustment is by a small phillips screw protruding from the back of the valve mechanism (pic).
Image
If this is screwed too far in there is no flow thru the valve, irrespective of the lever position. If the screw is removed there is always flow thru the valve. Adjust this screw until blowing is (virtually) impossible when the lever is fully CW and isn’t easiest until the lever is fully CCW. If it is still not possible to blow thru the valve: As Steve notes, there is an auto temp control mechanism, when air temp is hot the water flow is throttled. If this mechanism is jammed (in the hot air position) u might not be able to blow easily thru the valve, even when the valve lever is fully CCW. Get a new valve.

To test the heater matrix (per Stuart, Ole): If convection makes hose temp inconclusive, alternative procedure is to remove the hoses to the matrix and try blowing thru. If cannot blow easily yr up for a new matrix.

To test the Air on/off control (per Ole): The left control (Air on-off) should flick the flap fully open or closed, no intermediate position. If the oblong vent thru the bottom of the box is open (u can stick yr hand in) it means the flap is up (vertical), air from the heater fan is being diverted into the engine bay, there can be almost no flow of heated air from the matrix into the cabin.
Image
For hot air into the cabin this bottom vent needs to be closed by the (horizontal) flap .

Air flow over the matrix (fins) can also be blocked by build-up of dust, pollen etc. that clogs the fins. Is hard to detect this, Dismantle box and clean.
Regards,
ColinL
'72 OTS manual V12

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Woly64
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#26 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by Woly64 » Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:47 pm

Colin that is amazing thank you for the detailed explanation and very helpful photographs :thankyouyellow: - I now have my homework set for the weekend! Just to ensure there is no misinterpretation at my end (I'm clearly light years behind you in understanding these matters) can you confirm your meaning of the references to the control lever being CW and CCW. Thanks in advance and apologies if this is basic stuff :studyinggray:
Martin

1971 Series 3 2+2
MTM RS6 Avant
S3 Sportsback
Polo 1.2S

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christopher storey
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#27 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by christopher storey » Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:37 pm

CW = Clockwise

CCW = Counter-clockwise = Anti-clockwise

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Woly64
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#28 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by Woly64 » Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:23 pm

Got it thanks
Martin

1971 Series 3 2+2
MTM RS6 Avant
S3 Sportsback
Polo 1.2S

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Woly64
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#29 Re: Heating and ventilation

Post by Woly64 » Mon Mar 18, 2019 2:05 pm

Finally all sorted with the replacement of the heater matrix - now I can get warm air into the cabin just as the outside temperatures are rising!! Thanks everybody on here for your help :thankyouyellow:
Martin

1971 Series 3 2+2
MTM RS6 Avant
S3 Sportsback
Polo 1.2S

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