It’s me again!
I’m trying to rule out potential ignition problems and have already replaced the coil. The ballast resistor looks like it’s had some trauma with PO and looking to change it however ifs noticed that suppliers seem to have dried up. The one I’ve found is quoting £192. From experience out there, do you think that this is a worthwhile investment, including does this type of part go wrong easily, or would you suggest channelling funds elsewhere such as a new distributor?
I would add that I am a “male do and mend” kind of chap and wouldn’t normally replace stuff for the sake of it looking new.
Thanks
Adrian
Ballast Resistor
#2 Re: Ballast Resistor
G'day Adrian! Short answer, Imo: Not a worthwhile investment, very rare for ballast resistor to ever be faulty, definitely aim to replace an Opus distributor.
Long answer:
1. Do you have a workshop manual? If not, here is one:
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AiSPBKa26IcchJoGD2wp_dEgALSoQA
2. Do you have a multimeter? If not, pls consider this would be a most useful investment.
3. Do you have the original Opus ignition system? If yes, you can use your multimeter to perform the tests in the workshop manual (Section 86.35.00) to isolate the cause of any "potential" ignition problems, including the ballast resistor. Note - if you have Opus ignition, the ignition coil primary winding resistance (between the "+" & "-" terminals) MUST be 0.8 - 1 ohm. If not, you've bought the wrong coil. You might find that the cheapest multimeters may not be able to measure such low resistances reliably.
Long answer:
1. Do you have a workshop manual? If not, here is one:
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AiSPBKa26IcchJoGD2wp_dEgALSoQA
2. Do you have a multimeter? If not, pls consider this would be a most useful investment.
3. Do you have the original Opus ignition system? If yes, you can use your multimeter to perform the tests in the workshop manual (Section 86.35.00) to isolate the cause of any "potential" ignition problems, including the ballast resistor. Note - if you have Opus ignition, the ignition coil primary winding resistance (between the "+" & "-" terminals) MUST be 0.8 - 1 ohm. If not, you've bought the wrong coil. You might find that the cheapest multimeters may not be able to measure such low resistances reliably.
Regards,
ColinL
'72 OTS manual V12
ColinL
'72 OTS manual V12
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#3 Re: Ballast Resistor
Hi Colin!
Thanks for your reply. It has the original ignition system and I have a workshop manual but the father-in-law monopolises it so thanks for the link.
We’ve got a multimeter so we’ll do the tests and definitely won’t be shelling out on a new ballast resistor unless it is absolutely necessary.
Thanks again
Adrian
Thanks for your reply. It has the original ignition system and I have a workshop manual but the father-in-law monopolises it so thanks for the link.
We’ve got a multimeter so we’ll do the tests and definitely won’t be shelling out on a new ballast resistor unless it is absolutely necessary.
Thanks again
Adrian
Adrian
1971 Series 3 2+2 RHD manual
1971 Series 3 2+2 RHD manual
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#4 Re: Ballast Resistor
Hi Rob Gill here, you may find you end up replacing lots of parts to no avail , it may be worth considering replacing the complete system from barratts ,I had similar problems and this cured all my problems. Remember your trying to things which are 45 years old.
All the best Rob Gill.
All the best Rob Gill.
v12 etype 2+2
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#5 Re: Ballast Resistor
Hi Rob
Yes, we’ve already bitten the bullet and done that where there are some moving parts. I’ll give the ignition system a stay of execution but it may be on borrowed time.
As for the age of the car and its bits, it doesn’t bode well for me, being over 45!! :bigrin
Cheers
Adrian
Yes, we’ve already bitten the bullet and done that where there are some moving parts. I’ll give the ignition system a stay of execution but it may be on borrowed time.
As for the age of the car and its bits, it doesn’t bode well for me, being over 45!! :bigrin
Cheers
Adrian
Adrian
1971 Series 3 2+2 RHD manual
1971 Series 3 2+2 RHD manual
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