Hi,
does anyone know where i can get a sprocket retaining tool JD.40.
and a valve timing gauge C3993 for S3.
Thanks Rob Gill.
Cam shaft tools
#2 Re: Cam shaft tools
You probably don't need any of them. It depends where you are starting from. Having a running engine is a different starting point to having just a pile of parts.
The only one you really need, assuming you are not putting it back how it came out, is the cam tool to make sure both cams are facing upwards the same amount.
Valve timing = gap between cam bucket tops and back of the cam lobes. Feeler gauge needed.
The jackshaft retaining tool isn't strictly needed if your engine currently runs. It's only purpose is to make sure the distributor rotor still faces the same way when reassembled. To do that, take the engine to tdc on 1a on the compression stroke, pop the cap off and photograph or mark where the rotor is pointing to. Just make sure that's where it is pointing when in it's all back together, with both camshaft notches pointing upwards as they would be when at TDC 1A comression stroke anyway. (The gotcha is that if the distributor is taken out, it's slanted/bevelled gear goes round a bit as it goes in so it points the wrong way once lowered because it's not a straight cut gear.)
kind regards
Marek
The only one you really need, assuming you are not putting it back how it came out, is the cam tool to make sure both cams are facing upwards the same amount.
Valve timing = gap between cam bucket tops and back of the cam lobes. Feeler gauge needed.
The jackshaft retaining tool isn't strictly needed if your engine currently runs. It's only purpose is to make sure the distributor rotor still faces the same way when reassembled. To do that, take the engine to tdc on 1a on the compression stroke, pop the cap off and photograph or mark where the rotor is pointing to. Just make sure that's where it is pointing when in it's all back together, with both camshaft notches pointing upwards as they would be when at TDC 1A comression stroke anyway. (The gotcha is that if the distributor is taken out, it's slanted/bevelled gear goes round a bit as it goes in so it points the wrong way once lowered because it's not a straight cut gear.)
kind regards
Marek
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#3 Re: Cam shaft tools
Hi ,
i have annoying oil leak which i thought was from the cam cover, but having taken the inlet manifold off it appears to be leaking from the joint between the tappet block and cylinder head. My thoughts were to remove tappet block and and clean and reseal.to do this the cam needs to be removed.
Thanks Rob.
i have annoying oil leak which i thought was from the cam cover, but having taken the inlet manifold off it appears to be leaking from the joint between the tappet block and cylinder head. My thoughts were to remove tappet block and and clean and reseal.to do this the cam needs to be removed.
Thanks Rob.
v12 etype 2+2
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#4 Re: Cam shaft tools
If you want to fix that in situ, you'll have to strip the top of the engine off on the relevant side. Remove the cross pipes, drain coolant ~30%, undo water rail hoses and remove the entire double carburettor plus black manifolds as a unit from the heads.
Take the engine to tdc 1a, either stroke, doesn't matter.
Take off the cam cover. Undo the two top cam sprocket bolts, rotate engine 360', undo the two other bolts.
Pop the dissy cap off and record where the rotor points to. The rotor should move 180' for each engine rotation, so note where the cam notch is (up or down) when you record where the rotor points.
If you are doing the A side, you should be able to just pop the sprocket off of the camshaft and you'll have to tie it up to the hanger. So long as t never loses contact with the chain, it'll have to come back on the same as it came off.
If you are doing the B side, the same applies but you may have detension the tensioner aswell as you may find it a tight fit to get the chain/sprocket back on.
Playing with the jackshaft retaining tool means having the timing cover off. That means also removing pulley and entire front of the engine and at least dropping the sump down a few inches at the front. You will likely have stripped the entire bottom of the engine and that means fully removing coolant, oil, lots more gaskets and a reasonable probability of a nice game of whack a mole, as you may create more oil leaks than you fix.
From memory, Loctite 500 series were the sealants (red thick transparent sealant, 516?). Also, I used to use two different sealants on the cam cover gaskets, so they'd tend to come off in one piece next time.
After reassembly, when doing valve timing, make sure you torque the nuts down to exactly the same level each time. (I found the 1A and 1B readings could be made to vary, sprocket on, sprocket off.) The camshaft retaining caps also need to go back on in the same places as they came off and may not fit properly (it'll look right, but they'll pinch the camshaft and the engine won't turn over without Geoff Capes at the helm). If they are not clearly labelled, then scribe them a number each.
Good luck. Do let us know what new swearwords you have invented when you are done. Gordan Ramsey will have nothing on you, I promise.
kind regards
Marek|
Take the engine to tdc 1a, either stroke, doesn't matter.
Take off the cam cover. Undo the two top cam sprocket bolts, rotate engine 360', undo the two other bolts.
Pop the dissy cap off and record where the rotor points to. The rotor should move 180' for each engine rotation, so note where the cam notch is (up or down) when you record where the rotor points.
If you are doing the A side, you should be able to just pop the sprocket off of the camshaft and you'll have to tie it up to the hanger. So long as t never loses contact with the chain, it'll have to come back on the same as it came off.
If you are doing the B side, the same applies but you may have detension the tensioner aswell as you may find it a tight fit to get the chain/sprocket back on.
Playing with the jackshaft retaining tool means having the timing cover off. That means also removing pulley and entire front of the engine and at least dropping the sump down a few inches at the front. You will likely have stripped the entire bottom of the engine and that means fully removing coolant, oil, lots more gaskets and a reasonable probability of a nice game of whack a mole, as you may create more oil leaks than you fix.
From memory, Loctite 500 series were the sealants (red thick transparent sealant, 516?). Also, I used to use two different sealants on the cam cover gaskets, so they'd tend to come off in one piece next time.
After reassembly, when doing valve timing, make sure you torque the nuts down to exactly the same level each time. (I found the 1A and 1B readings could be made to vary, sprocket on, sprocket off.) The camshaft retaining caps also need to go back on in the same places as they came off and may not fit properly (it'll look right, but they'll pinch the camshaft and the engine won't turn over without Geoff Capes at the helm). If they are not clearly labelled, then scribe them a number each.
Good luck. Do let us know what new swearwords you have invented when you are done. Gordan Ramsey will have nothing on you, I promise.
kind regards
Marek|
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#5 Re: Cam shaft tools
Hi
the jaguar manual makes it seem straight forward .
maybe i will learn to live with the oil drip for the time being.
Thanks Rob
the jaguar manual makes it seem straight forward .
maybe i will learn to live with the oil drip for the time being.
Thanks Rob
v12 etype 2+2
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