front seat refoam

Talk about the E-Type Series 3

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jonhall88
Posts: 137
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:35 pm
Location: dorset
Great Britain

#1 front seat refoam

Post by jonhall88 » Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:47 pm

Having got my head round the mechanicals I need to put a new foam base on the drivers seat. I havent attempted any trimming in the past but from what I can see and the vids watched its a job for this weekend. Quick question though on some of the seat retrim videos some show the actual cover being glued to the base and some just slide on. Any pointers ?
On the down side I have some minor rust bubbles on the bonnet (sigh) car has a few acid burns on the paint so a respray is looking imminent that will please her indoors when she finds out how much it will cost, this is a bit of a sore point in the house especially as she thinks it does 28 mpg not brave enough to tell her yet.
jon
1974 ser 3

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coalboy
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#2

Post by coalboy » Sat Mar 03, 2012 10:16 am

Hi - just doing the same myself - in the restoration book I have it is glued just where the flutes/perforated leather is and this agrees with my dismantling of the seats. They where also glued on the underside where the runners screw in etc.

Do you have the link for a base refoaming video as I can only see the seat back?

Nigel
S3 OTS lavender blue

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Topic author
jonhall88
Posts: 137
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#3

Post by jonhall88 » Sat Mar 03, 2012 10:33 am

Sorry no. All the videos I have been watching ar from more modern cars on U tube not a great deal of help but better than nothing.
jon
1974 ser 3

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Woolfi
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#4

Post by Woolfi » Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:17 am

I have renewed the foam of my drivers seat und I have cut away some foam right under the ass. The hole is roundabout 2" deep. I am sitting a little bit deeper in my roadster, the head is now below the frame of the front window and - most important- the back part of the leg ist laying directly on the front end ot the seat. I am not sitting ON the seat. Now I am more sitting in the seat. The contact area of the leg with the seat is bigger, like with a modern car seat.
If you take away the leather, you can try to do this with the old foam and test it. If you have the feeling to sit better, you can do it with the new foam.
Regards Wolfgang Gatza

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Topic author
jonhall88
Posts: 137
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:35 pm
Location: dorset
Great Britain

#5 seat refoam

Post by jonhall88 » Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:55 pm

All done looks great, leather now taught as opposed to saggy and creased. Old seat foam was completely shot away. Its actually quite comfy now and a fairly easy job to do.
I also found out why the seat adjustment isnt working, because a previous owner has welded the bloody thing completely ballsing it and a new one is over ?200, Just a quick one, as Im sure we all know about the heat generated in the footwells (cosy on a winters day but not quite so much fun on a summers day) The fresh air pull knob which operates the flapvalves and allows cooler !! air into the footwells, is the trim supposed to have air holes /circles cut into them to allow the air in ?
mine hasn't which may explain why not a lots happening
I have also aquired some previous sales reciepts for my car. For the princely sum of ?6200 it had a complete engine / gearbox rebuild which included a wedged crank, lightened flywheel and fast road cams along with reprofiled heads. probably why even after tuning it goes like stink but even with careful driving I only get 12mpg. Still if I wanted good fuel economy I would have bought a mini !
jon
1974 ser 3

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Woolfi
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#6

Post by Woolfi » Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:01 am

With careful driving the gas consumption of my car is roundabout 20 mpg. The car has a high compression 6,0 L V12 motor with 4 strombergs, 2,88er Diff and a long Getrag with a fifth gear of 0,81.
If your car has a automatic gearbox the 16 mpg should be normal, IF the carbs, ignition , air filter are correct and in a good condition.
If your car has a 6 cylinder, maybe the tuner has done a mistake, choosing the wrong needles for the SU's. If yo ar changing the "breathing" of the motor, the needles must be different. A lot of people are not able, to do this work well, because their knowledge about needle reprofiling is nearby zero. In the book from Des Hammill about SU's , this work is explained with all details.
If you are mounting a LC-1 Lambda measuring system from innovate, you will be able to shape the neddle perfect.
It is NOT possible to adjust this mixture of a Carb by "turning a screw", like most car mechanics believe. Only the micture of idle and lower part throttle you can adjust by changing the high of the needle (Stromberg). The changing of the high of the needle is NOT changing the mixture of higher part throttle and full throttle by a measurable amount. Why ! Some simple math is showing this and I have checked in REALITY by driving the car and watching the Lambda gauge.
Regards Wolfgang Gatza

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