Clicking solenoid starter problem
#1 Clicking solenoid starter problem
With a battery that seems healthy with a CTEK conditioning device connected for a couple of weeks since last start, the engine turns over on start but only for 2 secs before the loud clicking of the solenoid occurs.
A mechanic friend told me the battery is most likely at fault but the same symptoms occur if I try jump starting with another vehicle.
My understanding of the whole starter system is limited but my guess is the solenoid is fine but there is a poor connection somewhere? I'd be grateful for pointers on which connections, and their whereabouts, would most likely be causing the problem on my early US V12. And other hints at possible causes.
Thanks
A mechanic friend told me the battery is most likely at fault but the same symptoms occur if I try jump starting with another vehicle.
My understanding of the whole starter system is limited but my guess is the solenoid is fine but there is a poor connection somewhere? I'd be grateful for pointers on which connections, and their whereabouts, would most likely be causing the problem on my early US V12. And other hints at possible causes.
Thanks
Rafa
S3 2+2
S3 2+2
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#2
Check all your earth strap between the body and engine. Best to remove the bolts and clean things up first.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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#4
One between the engine/gearbox and body. Usually about 6" long and braided uncovered cable with big ring connectors at each end. Not an expert on the S3 but it will usually be around the battery area.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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#6 Earths
There are two that I know of. One is attached to the frame from the sump about half way along on the left side, the other is the battery neg terminal.
You might want to check the battery buss bar for tightness, that's the group of connectors all joined together near the battery, might even be worth opening it up and cleaning all the connectors if at all corroded or dirty.
I think the starter lead also connects to this group of connections.
Cheer
You might want to check the battery buss bar for tightness, that's the group of connectors all joined together near the battery, might even be worth opening it up and cleaning all the connectors if at all corroded or dirty.
I think the starter lead also connects to this group of connections.
Cheer
Mark Brown
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.
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#7
Thanks Mark, the negative terminal one is all cleaned up now (problem still exists) but I've failed to locate the other earth lead. Is it only accessible underneath? I have no ramp and the front of the car is jacked up but access is still tricky...
It occurred to me it might be missing but then it started ok a couple of weeks ago where it's standing.
Cheers
It occurred to me it might be missing but then it started ok a couple of weeks ago where it's standing.
Cheers
Rafa
S3 2+2
S3 2+2
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#8
Ah just found it and it's quite frayed in the middle, will get another and go from there...
Rafa
S3 2+2
S3 2+2
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#9
Heuer
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 7:00 am Post subject:
Check all your earth strap between the body and engine. Best to remove the bolts and clean things up first.
Rafa your problem got me thinking about earths and starter motors, check out this link
http://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-sy ... er-circuit
Cheers
Mark
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 7:00 am Post subject:
Check all your earth strap between the body and engine. Best to remove the bolts and clean things up first.
Rafa your problem got me thinking about earths and starter motors, check out this link
http://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-sy ... er-circuit
Cheers
Mark
Mark Brown
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.
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#10
What a great website with nice clear explanations, thanks Mark.
So far I've struggled to remove one of the earth lead bolts, not seized just turning and I can't access the reverse side without a ramp and possibly panel removal.
Anyway, at least I can try more in depth trouble-shooting.
So far I've struggled to remove one of the earth lead bolts, not seized just turning and I can't access the reverse side without a ramp and possibly panel removal.
Anyway, at least I can try more in depth trouble-shooting.
Rafa
S3 2+2
S3 2+2
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#11
If the bolt is turning that could be your problem. It needs to be tight otherwise it will not carry the required current. Unfortunately a simple voltage test won't reveal an issue because it will pass a low current.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
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#12
Hi Rafe.......u could just disconnect the wireing to the starter then use a pair of jump leads straight on the starter and see if it operates.....ideally get the leads on the starter first then touch them to the battery...Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#13
Thanks again David and thanks Steve. That should at least get me to a ramp!
Rafa
S3 2+2
S3 2+2
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#14
For a simple test just connect a jump lead to the engine and the earth side of the battery. It should then show up a bad earth from engine to body....
It does happen that they just drop the earth connection for no apparent reason. Usually the night before you set of for Le Mans............... oh I was mad really mad.
It does happen that they just drop the earth connection for no apparent reason. Usually the night before you set of for Le Mans............... oh I was mad really mad.
ITS NOT WHAT YOU DRIVE ITS HOW GOOD YOU LOOK IN IT
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