RHD / LHD pedals

[aaaron]

Hi all - my first post in this forum. I'm converting my 73 V12 to RHD and wonder if the brake /clutch pedals are shaped differently for RHD vs LHD. I read a great series of articles about the conversion which indicated that the pedals are different but the article only referred to S1 and S2. S3??? If so, is is sufficient to just straighten the brake pedal or do I need to cant the clutch further to the left as well?
Thanks!
Allan

[jivili]

Alan
I converted mine and just bought a rhd clutch lever and re- used the auto(brake lever)
I didn't crank the levers at all but instead I fabbed up a couple of new pedals with the bolts set offset.
I think I used a 10mm back mark from the side of the pedals which increases the gap between the pedals by @ 12mm.
I find that by doing this ithere is enough space to use the pedals without issue.
If you want to use standard pedals then without cranking the levers they are too close together to use properly

Regards

Dean

[abowie]

I haven't converted a series 3 but I think they use the same pedal box as the S2. If that's the case you do need to bend both pedals. From memory the series of articles by Mike Cassidy has a diagram showing how much to bend them. If you can't find the picture in the articles send me a PM and I'll have a hunt.

My usual approach is to heat them up with Oxy to red heat in a vice and then tap them over with a hammer. I've done 3 or 4 sets like this without breaking one. I'm not sure that they are available as new items.

WRT the dash top you can buy a moulded cover for it that is a perfect fit. You can also get a trimmer to recover it with vinyl but they don't look right IMO. Any competent motor trimmer can restitch a steering wheel for you although it might take a few hours of hand work.

WRT getting parts in Oz, if you haven't worked it out already buying directly from the UK is the most cost efficient. If you ask them both SNG Barratt and David Manners will offer a 10% discount off the top to you. Just say you're restoring a whole car. Keep the cost of parts and shipping to under $1000 per shipment to avoid Customs. It's not that the duty and GST is very expensive but depending on the shipper there can be a lot of delay and stuffing around needed on your part to get stuff through. Used parts for vintage cars are nor supposed to attract duty, however Customs are a law unto themselves and if they want you to pay therer's not much you can do.

[AussieEtype]

Just to clarify Andrews comment "Keep the cost of parts and shipping to under $1000 per shipment to avoid Customs."

The $1000 cutoff does not include shipping - so is the cost of goods only - however when the cost of goods exceeds $1000 and you have to pay GST and the other duties, these are calculated on the combined cost of the goods and shipping.

The other issue is whether the value of the goods based on the exchange rate at the time of purchase or when they arrive - it is when they arrive - I have been caught buying goods that were about $950 when purchased but worth $1050 when they arrived due to changes in exchange rates. If you present a paid invoice for the goods that clearly show the value at purchase time was less than $1000, then often the authorities will allow the exchange rate at purchase time to apply. Sometimes they don't as it is the value of goods at clearance time.

Garry

[jivili]

This might save you a few dollars as well iwith your conversion unless you have already sorted the steering rack


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182279625558

jaguar e type series 3 V12 RHD power steering rack conversion kit from lhd