130A alternator upgrade

[jagwit]

No accessories on was 13.6x at battery is 13.7x with cable

So you lost 0.1V simply by charging battery.

Drops to 13.6x (was 13.3) with hdlts/hrt fan/radio,

Aha! Up from 13.3! This is acceptable in my book.

add the radiator fan which is a big GM fan motor drops to 13.5x after a drop to 12.6 and quick recovery to the 13.5 (was 12.6).
Reading at alternator with all on is 13.7 at 1500rpm.

So that means you are dropping 0.2V on the 0 gauge cable when that fan motor comes on. That is marginally OK.

OK, so point proven?? Problem solved?

Now we can further improve matters by re-installing the original fan & motor (Because it draws so much less current)!!! This would require:
1) fitting the correct form factor thermostat that ensures the bypass route is closed off when it opens;
2) Making sure that no secondary bypass route exists (coolant escaping from the otter switch orifice in the large diameter pipe going through the header tank, via the the 1" pipe from the header tank to the top RHS of the radiator);
3) making sure that the radiator is not blocked.

[mtnjag]

Yeah, thanks, I was thinking those readings looked pretty good.

So that looks like a good range to you?

Concerned if I go to the higher rated alternator regulator at 14.8 that would bring back the overcharging problem.

Yes, I have a CoolCat fan sitting in front of the car to install. My understanding it pulls about 7 amps vs the GM at 25+ or so.

Cooling system is good with the proper thermostat. This is a Series 1 so Otter switch in tank. If I could get a set of hoses that fit snuggly it would be nice and stop the continuous tightening of clamps to stop occasional weepage! Buying from XKs Unld in Calif.

Thanks

[jagwit]

So that looks like a good range to you?

Yep, that will do.

If your header tank is after market, please don't disregard the possibility of that secondary bypass coolant route from header tank to top right of radiator. I worked on a 68 recently with this exact problem. I sorted it by installing some blockage in that 1" pipe leaving only a 3mm orifice for air in the radiator to escape back to the header tank.

That otter switch is also in a less optimal location - another prehistoric leftover. It should be on the cool side (RHS) of the radiator. - where most modern cars' are (with good reason).

[mtnjag]

The header tank has no bypass on the early cooling system. Just the inlet from the intake manifold dumping coolant at the fan sensor in the header tank with an outlet to the radiator on opposite side. Using a fan sensor from CoolCats which seems to work nicely. Drops deep into the header tank through the hole in the baffle.

[mtnjag]

I see what you mean by fan sensor location. Only turn the fan on if cooling through radiator is not adequate and coolant will enter the eng at a higher than desirable temp.

[garym100]

I have an e-type 1.5 series - import from the US. It was fitted with a Delco Remy alternator which when opened had many parts severely worn - I couldn't find the replacement parts in the UK and parts available in US cost lots to ship. Anyway I decided to buy the Lucas Upgrade alternator from SNG, thinking it would be a simple switch. I think I've worked out the wiring thanks to all the previous posts. However, where the belt is fitted the old Delco has a fan and I'm not sure if I need to replace the belt for a different style. Ideally I'd like to fit the new Lucas alternator and over time refurbish the Delco since I like the old industrial 1960's look of the delco unit.

Any advice on whether I need a different belt and how to fit the new Lucas unit appreciated.

[garym100]

Ah, realised I need to fit a pully wheel - such an f wit ! Now need to see if old one will fit or if I need a new one.

[lowact]

I couldn't resist. new 60 A alternator versus old:


93 mm frame size, smallest available. They go up to 90 A in this size but 60 A seems to be the price sweet spot.
As with most new aftermarket alternators it has an internal fan, that pulls air through from the pulley end. If I was to mount this like the Butec (pulley to the rear) it would be trying to push air against the natural air flow. So I will fitting this baby pulley forwards, in place of the air pump ...