Series One indicator stalk

paulsco · Post by **paulsco** » Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:11 pm

Has anybody replaced the Series One indicator stalk?

I bought a chrome stalk at Stoneleigh as the chrome was flaking off my existing one, but the stalk in the casting seems very tight and I don?t want to break it.
Is it just an interference fit, threaded or glued?

Thanks,

Paul

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Fri Nov 07, 2014 6:22 pm

You have to cut of the old One, and then drill the remains out of the body.

Then re-glue the new One in.

Carsten

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Fri Nov 07, 2014 7:59 pm

On mine the end is knurled and just pushed into the die cast metal at the base and the plastic knob at the top.

Post by **1954Etype** » Fri Nov 07, 2014 8:14 pm

You dont need to cut the old one out. I heated the area where it is pushed in with boiling water and pulled it out (it is splined). I would re-chrome the original as some of the repros dont have the splines and they are required!

abowie · Post by **abowie** » Fri Nov 07, 2014 11:22 pm

1954Etype wrote: (it is splined).

Correct; not knurled as I said.

I disassembled the diecast piece from the rest of the mechanism before removing it.

paulsco · Post by **paulsco** » Sat Nov 08, 2014 12:19 pm

Thank you all for your help.

The stalk I have does not have a splined end, in fact it is about an inch too long after the bend. I bought it from Richard Smith?s stall who usually sells quality items and from what you have said I am quite surprised that it does not have the required splines or the correct length for fitting.

I am reluctant to risk damaging the diecast piece, especially as the stalk is not suitable without remanufacturing the end. This is not a concourse restoration; I think for now I will remove the rest of the chrome, polish it up and put some clear coat on it.
I am constantly being disappointed by replacement parts.

Thanks again,

Paul

Post by **1954Etype** » Sat Nov 08, 2014 5:04 pm

Send it back to him. You are making the right choice in not removing it if you arent sure.

tinworm · Post by **tinworm** » Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:07 am

I have fitted these successfully - the problem being that you cannot re-chrome the original without damaging the moulded tip. Richard Smiths arm will go nicely into the socket with araldite after roughening the end - making sure you have it at the right angle. No one else makes a replacement and your only other action is to buy a complete new switch or find an original arm in good condition.
I dont think its a big deal.

regards Barrie

Post by **1954Etype** » Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:55 am

I have had the opposite experience to Barries. The end needs to be splined as during use, there is a significant turning force at the end where it is fitted into the switch.

The plastic comes off after soaking in boiling water.

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