Winter jobs - any views?

[AshM]

Hi all,

At the start of last winter’s work I posted a quick plan of jobs and suppliers and received some very helpful views and experience. Always interesting and much appreciated.

So I thought I would repeat this year and see what I get.

The main job this winter is an engine, carb and gearbox rebuild. It turned over 73,000 miles during the RBCD this year and the head has never been off so I reckon she is due some TLC. I plan to remove the unit and deliver to the engine builder out of the car so I can crack on with a front end restoration.

Frames will be removed, carefully blasted and hopefully repainted if no damage. Then everything else gets refurbished or replaced – suspension, steering and all the under-bonnet anciliaries.

So the plan on parts / major jobs;

1. Fosseway Starter and Alternator
2. Classicfabs manifold and exhaust
3. New front end wiring loom. Is there a recommended supplier?
4. Full SNGB polyurethane suspension bushes set
5. Steering rack refurb and new mounting rubbers. Did I read something on here about use of polyurethane (or not)?
6. Steering column and propshaft UJ’s
7. Brake caliper refurb
8. New underside fuel pipe
9. Wheel bearings
10. Bulkhead transfer pipes (I have been bypassing a leaking one for 10 years – this is the year!)
11. Engine mountings
12. Wiper motor refurb.
13. Heater box refurb.

Anything I have missed or should do whilst the front is stripped out (cooling system done last winter)?

Cheers
Ash

[Heuer]

I would avoid the tubular manifolds as they can bubble the paint on your newly painted frames - ditto the bonnet if you are not careful. They also make the car noisy with a tinkling at low speed and reduce your torque between 2,250 and 2,750 rpm. Basically pointless unless you are going racing. Stick to the stock manifolds and a standard size 1.75" tube exhaust system; avoid big bore. Specify straight through silencers if you want more power and noise.

Be careful with poly bushes as they come in several levels of stiffness and can make the car very harsh. Personally I fitted standard rubber (same on steering rack) bushes and they have been fine for many thousands of miles.

Whilst you are refurbishing your heater box consider the Clayton adjustable vents and the curved air deflector (see upgrades forum) as they improve fresh air flow immensely. If you can find a Fiero fan and motor it would be worth fitting it.

Once you have overhauled the wiper motor fit the intermittent wipe system detailed in Upgrades. Also make sure you fit the more expensive £15 wiper blades from SNGB - the cheap £7 ones are useless in the wet.

[1954Etype]

I wouldn't bother rebuilding the propshaft. You are better off fitting a new one as the UJs wear, the sliding yoke wears, the yoke where the UJ bearing is held down with a circlip wears and the chances are it is out of balance.

Poly steering rack mounts are good - we have just fitted a set of metalastik ones and they deflect too much and hit the tube in the failsafe.

[dal2.0litrefrogeye]

Hi I wouldn't blast frames hey are only thin to start with ,I would be more inclined to chemically remove or what I did was steam the paint off .... then give them a couple of taps and see if you hear the light rattle of loose rust from inside .... if so I'm afraid new frames may be needed .regard
Darren

[AshM]

Thanks for the responses, appreciated.

So some changes to my shopping list - will definitely take up Angus's advice on a new propshaft and it's a rubber bushes kit for front suspension and poly for Steering Rack only.

Jury is still out on exhaust system - everyone I speak to is genuinely delighted with their ClassicFabs setup.

cheers
Ash

[johnetype]

I would add clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing.

Given what you've said in other posts and only 73,000 miles I'd ask you to think if it's worth the risk and expense of an engine rebuild as I'm not sure what you're hoping to gain? If you've got sufficient oil pressure, good compression and always used antifreeze so it's unlikely you've got significant internal corrosion, I'd reset the valve clearances, inspect the timing chains and sprockets and enjoy the certainty of a factory produced engine that's never had the head off.

[AshM]

Hi John

Thanks for post. Yep, clutch and all internals will be replaced as necessary.

It’s definitely due for a rebuild. The infamous rear crank seal is completely shot and it’s leaking badly.

Also, the main head studs are dangerously thin. When I replaced the HT leads the two retaining studs holding the lead sleeve undid from the bottom and I was alarmed at the diameter left (about 1/3rd of the new ones).

Chains need doing, etc, etc.

So I think it’s time.

Cheers
Ash