E type reaction plate
#1 E type reaction plate
Hello I have a e type series 1 with a 4.2 engine. I'm removing the engine out through the bottom and need advice on removing the front suspension torsion bars reaction plate. What is the best way to remove the reaction plate as I will have to refit the reaction plate when engine has been removed
so the car can be moved to the spray shop
so the car can be moved to the spray shop
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#2 Re: E type reaction plate
Its something you need to do with caution as you have the tension on the torsion bars....sugest you look in the service manual it details how to remove it....look at the section on how to remove engine as the reaction plate needs to be removed even if you take the engine out from above......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#3 Re: E type reaction plate
I've no doubt that makes it easier but the engine/gearbox can be removed and replaced with it in place. A little bending of the body flange above the bell housing may be required
This can only be done by tilting the back of the engine/gearbox down quite steeply so one of those adjustable tilting slings is needed.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#4 Re: E type reaction plate
You dont need to have the torsion bars and plate in place for the car to be moved to paint.
Just swap the dampers out with some steel bars and it will hold the weight.
Just done it my self :)
Just swap the dampers out with some steel bars and it will hold the weight.
Just done it my self :)
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#5 Re: E type reaction plate
Iv never even tried to take the engine out without removeing the reaction plate....the thought of haveing the engine half out and tilted even more than usual then getting a prybar in there to bend the body is not for me.....the o/p dosent mention but his S1 may even be a 2+2 which has a longer gearbox.....you can even drop the engine out the bottom without removeing the bonnet......Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#6 Re: E type reaction plate
!!
Michel
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
1965 E Type FHC - On the road / 1963 E Type OTS - on the road after Angus Restoration
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#7 Re: E type reaction plate
I am afraid that I think this is completely wrong. There is no possible way in which the engine/gearbox unit can be removed with the reaction plate in place. It lies in the space which the gearbox has to occupy when either the whole unit is lowered away ( i.e. taking it out downwards ) or when the whole unit is tilted nose up to remove the unit upwards . And I can think of few things more unwise than " A little bending of the body flange above the bell housing "JerryL770 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 08, 2018 10:31 am
I've no doubt that makes it easier but the engine/gearbox can be removed and replaced with it in place. A little bending of the body flange above the bell housing may be required
This can only be done by tilting the back of the engine/gearbox down quite steeply so one of those adjustable tilting slings is needed.
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#8 Re: E type reaction plate
As do I and I have removed and replaced a lot of engines.="christopher storey" post_id=108314 time=1541706033 user_id=77
I am afraid that I think this is completely wrong.
The technique is well described in the manual. If you mark your TBs with a dremel for reassembly it is not particularly difficult not time consuming.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#9 Re: E type reaction plate
What a load of tosh. You’ll be telling us next the mains can be changed with the sump on,or the points adjusted without removing the distributor cap
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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#10 Re: E type reaction plate
"Tosh" eh? That's pretty strong language. I'll be happy to be your second.PeterCrespin wrote: ↑Fri Nov 09, 2018 3:19 amWhat a load of tosh. You’ll be telling us next the mains can be changed with the sump on,or the points adjusted without removing the distributor cap
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#11 Re: E type reaction plate
Well, honestly...I was going to say ‘load of bo****ks’ but didn’t want to sound like Angus commenting on my latest get-rich-quick scheme!
Like many of us, I’ve got one of those ‘adjustable tilting slings’ but they don’t get round this issue. The reaction plate sandwiched deeply and unavoidably between the bell and the sump is, as any fule kno, precisely what stops the back of the engine/gearbox from dangling down at the angle described. Fine on a V12 with no plate, or a six with the plate removed. But with the plate in situ and the bulkhead unmolested, it ain’t gonna happen. I the idea of damaging the bulkhead being somehow worth it to avoid undoing a handful of bolts is also an odd notion.
Like many of us, I’ve got one of those ‘adjustable tilting slings’ but they don’t get round this issue. The reaction plate sandwiched deeply and unavoidably between the bell and the sump is, as any fule kno, precisely what stops the back of the engine/gearbox from dangling down at the angle described. Fine on a V12 with no plate, or a six with the plate removed. But with the plate in situ and the bulkhead unmolested, it ain’t gonna happen. I the idea of damaging the bulkhead being somehow worth it to avoid undoing a handful of bolts is also an odd notion.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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#12 Re: E type reaction plate
It all makes me wonder what some people's cars must be like.....
Stuart
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
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#13 Re: E type reaction plate
Well, I have watched and assisted in this on several cars and it is not a load of tosh. It simply requires some careful work and attention to what needs to be removed first and protected.PeterCrespin wrote: ↑Fri Nov 09, 2018 3:19 amWhat a load of tosh. You’ll be telling us next the mains can be changed with the sump on,or the points adjusted without removing the distributor cap
Clearly necessary to remove gear lever and likely the water pump pulley as the bolts can foul on the picture frame.
So, if you have not tried or done it, I would be obliged for less of the insults thank you Peter.
Last edited by JerryL770 on Sun Nov 11, 2018 10:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#14 Re: E type reaction plate
The reaction plate isn’t hard or time consuming to remove, but it does seem to strike fear into anyone who’s not removed it before. I think this is possibly because of the risk of injury or damage to the car from doing things wrong.
Study the workshop manual, and make sure you fully understand how the process before taking anything apart. When it comes to reassembling the suspension after the engine is out, you won’t be able to preload the torsion bars using the setting links without the weight of the engine.
Study the workshop manual, and make sure you fully understand how the process before taking anything apart. When it comes to reassembling the suspension after the engine is out, you won’t be able to preload the torsion bars using the setting links without the weight of the engine.
Tom
1970 S2 FHC
1970 S2 FHC
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#15 Re: E type reaction plate
Jerry : do give up . You are talking total nonsense , and thereby misleading people who as a result of your nonsensical advice may get themselves into a predicament with an engine and box half in and half out which may be very difficult to rectify. It may be that , because of your inexperience, you are confusing 12 cylinder cars ( which AFAIK do not have a reaction plate ) with 6 cylinder carsJerryL770 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 11, 2018 7:25 am
Well, I have watched and assisted in this on several cars and it is not a load of tosh. It simply requires some careful work and attention to what needs to be removed first and protected.
Clearly necessary to remove gear lever and likely the water pump pulley as the bolts can foul on the picture frame.
So, if you have not tried or done it, I would be obliged for less of the insults thank you Peter.
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#16 Re: E type reaction plate
Hi Jerome...I know that you work at a well respected company that does a lot of E type work..I do hope you haven't seen them bending a punters bodywork to remove an engine..Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#17 Re: E type reaction plate
Steve, that company built my car and I'm very happy with the work carried out. They do not compromise the high quality of customers cars.
I have been building engines for 40 years and have no reason to tell lies. I know what is possible and have seen this done.
I come here for the expertise which is evident, not to be insulted. It's a brilliant forum and I won't be put off by this. If I offer information based on my experience, I do so freely for anyone to use as they like. If they don't want to use it, that's their choice. I may not have long experience of E-types but they are just cars of the '60's and I come here because of the particularities of the E-type. I used to build my own Cooper S rally cars from top to bottom.
The OP also came here for advice because he was uncertain about what he wanted to do. I indicated that there is an alternative method. However, anyone should be comfortable and understand how to do what they are planning to do which is why he and I come here. I respect Peters' and your experience but tell you categorically this engine/box removal/replacement method is perfectly feasible - made easier by using appropriate lifting gear of the type shown here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/w5s513ggpd4d4 ... 8.JPG?dl=0
This was my V8 from the Facel Vega HK500 I bought which was supposedly rebuilt by an expert. I had to remove it for a crank grind (and other probs) because it ran all the bearings 200 miles after I got it!! I did get a refund of some monies. Here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/top ... 9339&i=680
also see near bottom of page 39
Thanks for all the good advice and ideas I have found on this forum.
Jerry
I have been building engines for 40 years and have no reason to tell lies. I know what is possible and have seen this done.
I come here for the expertise which is evident, not to be insulted. It's a brilliant forum and I won't be put off by this. If I offer information based on my experience, I do so freely for anyone to use as they like. If they don't want to use it, that's their choice. I may not have long experience of E-types but they are just cars of the '60's and I come here because of the particularities of the E-type. I used to build my own Cooper S rally cars from top to bottom.
The OP also came here for advice because he was uncertain about what he wanted to do. I indicated that there is an alternative method. However, anyone should be comfortable and understand how to do what they are planning to do which is why he and I come here. I respect Peters' and your experience but tell you categorically this engine/box removal/replacement method is perfectly feasible - made easier by using appropriate lifting gear of the type shown here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/w5s513ggpd4d4 ... 8.JPG?dl=0
This was my V8 from the Facel Vega HK500 I bought which was supposedly rebuilt by an expert. I had to remove it for a crank grind (and other probs) because it ran all the bearings 200 miles after I got it!! I did get a refund of some monies. Here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/top ... 9339&i=680
also see near bottom of page 39
Thanks for all the good advice and ideas I have found on this forum.
Jerry
Last edited by JerryL770 on Sun Nov 11, 2018 8:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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#18 Re: E type reaction plate
Hi Jerry.....maybee you have something to teach us then....do you have any photos of an enging/gearbox of any 4.2 comming out with the reaction plate still in place...would really be interested to see how its done.... Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#19 Re: E type reaction plate
I once knew a girl who could take her bra off without removing her shirt. Never could figure that one out either.
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
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#20 Re: E type reaction plate
James,
Steve, sorry I do not.
Steve, sorry I do not.
Jerome Lunt
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
1970 S2 FHC - Dark Blue, Red Interior, MX5 Seats
2008 MX-5 NC PRHT
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