Series 1 2+2 Engine Advise

[Jag3681]

Hi, new to the forum and would like some help with my restoration.

I've purchased a 1966 2+2 for full resto for a young relative who I'n sure will eventually sell it

It has already been converted from an auto to manual. They have however got rid of the original 4.2L and put in a 3.8L, which for me is a better engine. But in terms of re-sell is this an optimum change, or should I switch it back to a 4.2L?

Zero 3.8L 1 series were produced so its would be rare but trying to get him set up with a little house deposit and want to ensure I'm making the best choice for him

Cheers!

[abowie]

Any car that has been modified and therefore is not original will be worth less in the long run.

Given that the work has already been done it's more about what you like.

The 3.8 motor has less torque and revs a little more freely than the 4.2.

If you like the car as is leave it. Having a house where you can park it is good too

[chrisfell]

As the car is already non matching numbers, and a 2+2, I’d rebuild (properly) and sell the 3.8 (it is worth much more than a 4.2) and buy a 4.2 from a S3 XJ6 which has bigger valves and parabolic cams and a direct cam feed. Get that rebuilt with 9:1 pistons and pass the car on as a genuine 200bhp+ 2+2.

[mgcjag]

Hi..Welcom to the forum...whats your name ..please try to put it in the signature area....so as your car stands its non matching numbers and slightly non standard spec....no mater what you do it will always be no matching numbers..which is only possibly a problem on higher end cars....You mention a full restoration....and it sounds like your doing this as an investment to provide a future pot of cash......you do need to consider costs as with a 2+2 its very possible to end up spending far more than the finnished car would be worth.....Steve

[Jag3681]

Hi all, thanks for your comments.

I'll be doing everything myself, I restore cars for a living. The bodywork, paint, trim, engine rebuild I'll all do so zero man hours paid to someone else which is where we'll hopefully claw back some value for him. Its in pretty good nick and got it at a very good price so we're hopeful.

Completely understand 2+2's aren't where the big return is so yeh I'm thinking about switching for a 4.2L to get it as original as possible. I'll probably keep the 3.8L and find a shocking V8 conversion from The States and breath some life into one again.

Tom

[christopher storey]

Breathe some life into what again ? If you put a V8 in an E type you will render it as next to valueless as you can get .

[timhum]

Christopher,
I believe the poster meant find an E Type with a V8 conversion and replace that with the 3.8.

Tim

[Jag3681]

Correct, I wouldn't dream of ruining an E Type with a V8, but many Americans seem to be willing to do so and to my astonishment still think they're worth the same as an original!

I'll get a 4.2 in there and enjoy it until he needs to sell, can't wait to take it for a spin

Tom

[rswaffie]

Here you go. A ‘62 fhc with a v8. Offer him 30k, tell him he can keep the 20k v8 & box and pop your 3.8 in and source a S1 box.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 3174657257

[Jag3681]

Gave him a ring, lovely chap but not willing to sell without the engine

[abowie]

sell the 3.8 (it is worth much more than a 4.2)

If it comes originally from an E Type and has its original head and flywheel perhaps...

A 3.8 E type engine will have a number with an R or RA prefix.

[abowie]

If you do decide to go down the 4.2 route consider the difference between short and long stud engines.

The later 4.2s from around 1970 onwards have much longer head studs that go all the way through the water jacket and anchor in threads at the base of the block. These are more susceptible to corrosion, especially of the threads, and are better avoided if you have the choice. Fixing the threads way down in the base of the block can be a headache as they are not easy to access. We have a tap that is about 18" long that we had made to clear out these threads.

4.2 engines out of a 420 or a Mk10, or an E type prior to around 1970, are short stud. The studs anchor into threads in the top of the block and are less susceptible to corrosion and easier to fix if they do get damaged.

[288gto]

The later 4.2s from around 1970 onwards have much longer head studs ....

From October 1968 onwards. Engine numbers 7R1915 and 7R35389 according to Clausager.

I never thought I’d see the day I could pick you up on an E type technical detail Andrew

[abowie]

I never thought I’d see the day I could pick you up on an E type technical detail Andrew

I live and learn :-)

[Jag3681]

A 3.8 E type engine will have a number with an R or RA prefix.
[/quote]

I checked, I t’s RA5362-9 with matching block so is an EType engine

[Jag3681]

Hi guys,

Thanks for you advise on this so far. I'm almost certainly going to rebuild the 3.8 and put to one side,I don't want it in this car.

But 4.2, should I stick with auto or make the switch to a 4.2 manual, I'm leaning to manual as its probably more desirable.

Also I'm looking at XJ6, Dailmer engines as the etype 4.2 and matching gearbox I can find on ebay is circa £7k! Plus I then need it rebuilt

[baldyz1]

Hi,

For my 2+2 auto conversion I obtained a KJS numbered manual box from a later Series 2 which has slightly better ratios.

I was really lucky as this came with the suitable overdrive which is possible to fit in the 2+2 as you have the additional 9 inches to play with. I had to have a standard prop shortened to fit correctly but this was not expensive.

I went the whole hog and had the gearbox tunnel completely swapped to a manual tunnel as the auto tunnel is wide and ugly and you cannot fit the correct radio console or centre console. I was luckly enough to pickup a full 2+2 manual console from the USA.

Many thanks
Chris

[mgcjag]

Hi Chris...A KJS gearbox is from a 2+2..as far as im aware you cant fit an overdrive unit to it....are you sure the top cover is not from a KJS (stamped) but the gearbox from another Jag(number spamped on case).....usually with these 4syncro/compact A o/d swaps into a 2+2 the prop does not need shortening....so im interested in your conversion...any photos?....Steve

[mtnjag]

Whoaaaa. Just read through this post and must defend the US reputation. While the V8 conversion was done in the distant past due to misunderstanding and, well, stupidity regarding the eng it is no longer done. Possibly because it destroys value but still, rarely happening. Some old conversions around, just saw one the other day, but a rust bucket. Belated welcome to you.

[baldyz1]

Yes the KJS box came from a Series 2 2+2. The overdrive was added to that vehicle and then sold to me as a complete solution as they fitted a 5 speed Getrag.

Here is the unit built up including the overdrive.



We all thought the original prop would work but my car was auto so perhaps it is only the manual which is the correct length when the overdrive is fitted as my original auto prop did not work and the options from SNG specific for the 2+2 also did not go straight in.

I built a circuit for it with hidden button that puts it into overdrive on one press and out of overdrive on the second press. A change from fourth also drops the overdrive.

Its a neat solution.

Thanks
Chris