Engine removal

[Mich7920]

Hi Pete,
If you want to moove your car after removal engine by the bottom, just retiting your ball joints, replace the dampers by a good length straight bar and refit your weels.
But trying to do the job without release tention on torsion bars without lift is really really difficult.
Mich

[peters3103]

Agreed, I guess the extra effort and time will make the reaction plate removal less traumatic. I’ll do as you suggest and I’ll replace the shocks temporarily with steel bar.

Cheers,
Pete

[peters3103]

I’ve just realised that the 4 bolts securing the torsion bar tie plate have been inserted the wrong way around necessitating the complete removal of all the bolts to get it off in any case.I cursed the person who was responsible, then realised it was, in fact, me about 12 years ago when I adjusted the ride height.

Cheers,
Pete

[peters3103]

Hi,
Glad to report engine is safely on the garage floor. A minor mishap when the engine hoist tipped forward so employed another hoist with longer legs that did the job. I’m having difficulty removing my Champion spark plug caps which haven’t been removed since I first fitted them. No matter how hard I pull them up they won’t release. Reluctant to use grips of any sort as I’m sure they’ll get damaged. Any experiences here?

Cheers,
Pete

[ollieoscarsid]

I’ve got this coming up shortly, so was an interesting read. Thanks. Just wondering about the reaction plate, can the engine and box go in from underneath with it in place? On disassembly it all came out the top in bits. Ideally I want to assemble to rolling chassis with the car on a trolley, remove from trolley and pop the engine in from under. Is this possible? Ta. Chris.

[mgcjag]

Hi Chris...No engine cannot go in from the top or bottom without removeing the reaction plate...some have said on this forum that it can be inserted from above with plate still in position but the bulkhead has to be bent and engine levered in......Steve

[peters3103]

It’s a pretty snug fit even with the reaction plate removed. I don’t know why you’d even bother trying. (speaking from experience today!) Releasing the tension on the torsion bars and removal of the tie plate is absolutely essential.
Found I didn’t need to remove the crankshaft damper though, just the pulley.

Cheers

[mgcjag]

Great that you got it sorted Pete....much quicker to actually do than all the time spent thinking how to do it

[peters3103]

Ain’t that the truth Steve. This job is long overdue but I do actually enjoy doing it as long as I don’t bugger anything up (too much). After all, a bloke needs a project! I guess owning two Jags & and old Beeza there’s always something on!

Cheers,
Pete

[PeterCrespin]

Releasing the tension on the torsion bars and removal of the tie plate is absolutely essential..

There is a method - described in the official factory manual, no less - for removing the plate without releasing the torsion bar tension. Works fine and has been described here many times.

[peters3103]

Yes, agreed Pete, I did it that way last time but still managed to mangle the threads but that just me (and working solo). I had to remove the bolts completely this time as they were put in the wrong way around.

Cheers,
Pete

[PeterCrespin]

Fair enough. FWIW, I don’t worry unduly about the threads on the two small bracket bolts. The reaction plate is held in place by the bigger fasteners and its snug fit between the rails helps its main role of preventing them twisting under load.

The two small bolts are mainly under shear stress on the plain part of the bolt shank. The thread is there to keep the bolt in place, rather than to support a significant tensile load. Provided the a bolt is used rather than a fully-threaded set screw, then if working on your own car it’s not a mortal sin IMO to let the nut reform a smeared thread on tightening.