Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Talk about the E-Type Series 3

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SESH
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#1 Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by SESH » Sun Apr 19, 2020 11:12 pm

HI all,
Can you tell me how long it will take to replace a series 3 brake servo.
Any potential problems during the process
Thanks
Mike.
1973 Jaguar E Type Series 3 OTS Signal Red
1968 Proteus Jaguar C Type Ecurie Ecosse Flag Blue
1963 Triumph TR4 Signal Red
2020 Mustang Bullitt Highland Green

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42south
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#2 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by 42south » Mon Apr 20, 2020 3:29 am

to remove the old servo needs, about 1.5hrs. drain brake fluid, remove reservoir for better access, remove the vacuum reservoir for better access, disconnect pipes, undo 3 nuts in footwell, probably take off front splash guard to give better access. It takes quite a bit of fiddling to work out the orientation to remove the servo past the pipework.
Installing probably about the same time to get it installed and hooked up. Then there is bleeding the system. I went for a total system bleed just to be sure, using a suction bleeder. This job is probably another 1.5hrs on its own.
cheers
Mark Brown
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.

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SESH
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#3 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by SESH » Mon Apr 20, 2020 3:50 pm

Thanks Mark.
Probably going to leave it to a professional.
So about 4.5 hours all in?
Thanks
Mike.
1973 Jaguar E Type Series 3 OTS Signal Red
1968 Proteus Jaguar C Type Ecurie Ecosse Flag Blue
1963 Triumph TR4 Signal Red
2020 Mustang Bullitt Highland Green

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MLBS3V12
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#4 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by MLBS3V12 » Mon Apr 20, 2020 5:15 pm

Because you are going to change nearly all the brake fluid, Ask your guy to use silicon brake fluid. No more moisture in the circuit and no danger for your painting.
Le chemin sera long!...

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42south
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#5 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by 42south » Tue Apr 21, 2020 3:42 am

If they are just putting in a new servo, not reconditioning the old one then someone who knows what they are doing should make those times. however that's just an estimate from me, I'm not a mechanic. I'd be interested to hear what your garage thinks.
Changing to silicone fluid is another whole exercise. don't quote me but I think you have to get all the non silicone fluid out of the system before using it. This would be quite involved if true. Best to do some research before going down that route, as to the benefits vs the costs.
cheers
Mark Brown
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.

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lowact
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#6 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by lowact » Thu Apr 23, 2020 12:15 am

I tried to get mine done professionally, by ABS (national brake engineers in Oz). They dredged up a retired old ex employee especially. He started very keen and excited but cooled off when he learned what was involved in removing the servo, and bleeding the inboard rear brakes, etc. In the end he walked off and I had to collect my car, repair it myself. Took a lot longer than 4.5 hrs. I found it was cheaper to renew rather than refurbish (corroded cylinders). The servo has mounting studs front and back, on e-types the front studs are not used. New servo (from SNGB) the front mounting studs are longer, makes installation impossible. If you cut a couple of cm off them it is easy.
Regards,
ColinL
'72 OTS manual V12

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Bob.
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#7 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by Bob. » Thu Apr 23, 2020 1:32 pm

Interesting, I fitted a new "Lockheed" servo from SNGB last year and had no problem with the length of the front studs fouling during fitting - just the usual jizsaw puzzle of threading it through the framework. I found it easiest to remove the heater for access. No need to drain the system just siphon enough coolant out to lower the water level enough.

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'71 S3

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1954Etype
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#8 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by 1954Etype » Thu Apr 23, 2020 5:07 pm

I wouldn’t recommend changing to silicone at this point. People have had problems with seals swelling. We only use silicone on our restorations as everything has been replaced or rebuilt. Swapping out the servo is no big deal, bleeding the brakes could be.
Angus 67 FHC 1E33656
61 OTS 875047

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SESH
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#9 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by SESH » Thu Apr 23, 2020 11:01 pm

Thanks for all comments.
Presume you mean bleeding the brakes could be a problem because of the rear bleed nipples being hard to get to?
Just waiting for my mechanic to give me a price.
Will definitely go with DOT 4.
Mike
1973 Jaguar E Type Series 3 OTS Signal Red
1968 Proteus Jaguar C Type Ecurie Ecosse Flag Blue
1963 Triumph TR4 Signal Red
2020 Mustang Bullitt Highland Green

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MarkRado
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#10 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by MarkRado » Fri Apr 24, 2020 3:57 am

Getting all the air out of the system is the challenge.
Mark
1963 OTS 880436

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42south
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#11 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by 42south » Tue Apr 28, 2020 9:48 pm

Honestly guys, on the S3 bleeding the brakes is not a big deal, due to the rear access panels. I don’t think these are present on the S1 or 2

Just use one of these.

https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&rct=j ... 6ArUxf0yHr

Hope the long URL works, if not just google Snap on suction brake bleeder. There is a nice video with all the info you need.
Harbour freight make one as well, which may be cheaper.
I give this tool 10/10 , I’ve done my brakes several times, including master cylinder and servo replacement, with no issues, so simple.
The biggest advantage is that it’s a one man operation, no more enticing her indoors to push the brake pedal while you try to synchronise opening and closing of the bleed nipples. As in the video, apply clear tube, open nipple, and allow fluid to suck through till no more bubbles visible, easy right.
One tip, take out each nipple in turn and apply a little thread tape. This will stop any outside air getting in past the thread while the nipple is loosened, which will be confusing.
Second tip, do keep an eye on the reservoir levels regularly, be a shame to empty one and suck more air in.
Last tip, it’s so easy, go around twice just to be sure, making sure to start from the furtherest nipple from the MC, and work forward.
Cheers
Mark Brown
1971 S3 Etype, now sold, sadly.

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abowie
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#12 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by abowie » Tue Apr 28, 2020 11:26 pm

MarkRado wrote:
Fri Apr 24, 2020 3:57 am
Getting all the air out of the system is the challenge.
This makes it easy.

http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/t ... ringe.html
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia

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DavidJones
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#13 Re: Series 3 Brake Servo Replacement⅚

Post by DavidJones » Fri Jul 03, 2020 4:38 am

Hi,
I reconditioned my own servo and master cylinder but after had sticking brakes when hot in Aus warm days, tried all the on line remedies in the end found by improving the under hood sealing (added seal to lower lip of scoop and lengthened heat shields on exhaust manifolds) has so far made the difference. One thing I did do that I'm sure made the issue was I sealed off the 'nostril' vent above LF wheel with interior air vent flap, which have directed airflow to servo when open. Just need to get our Australian warm weather to test again.

One piece of advice, don't use DOT5 or synthetic brake fluid unless you have a virgin brake system to begin with.

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