Series 1 FHC engine installation

[Jerryslinn]

Is it possible to install the engine and gearbox (without inlet and outlet manifolds) from underneath without a lift. I have the bonnet, radiator etc off the car and was thinking I could attach a hoist to the picture frame and lift the car over the engine/gearbox. The engine/gearbox could then be lifted vertically up into place. I have installed the unit before in the conventional way and have usually damaged the picture frame and the engine frames. Having just replaced the picture frame and painted the bulkhead and engine frames I don’t want to do the same again. Any advice or experience?

[Mich7920]

Hi
This is for you.
http://etype.chrisvine.com/category/reb ... e-install/
Mich

[Jerryslinn]

Thanks Mich - can the starter motor be fitted beforehand

[abowie]

Thanks Mich - can the starter motor be fitted beforehand

Yes it can. And the clutch slave cylinder. And the water pump, minus the pulley.

We always test the starter motor works on the engine before installing to the car.

We lift the front using a strap on the picture frame and our engine hoist.

It is vital that the trolley you have the engine and gearbox on has all 4 castors able to turn 360 degrees. The sump needs to be at least 12" off the ground.

We usually put jack stands under the rear of the car. This allows you less angle at the front when you're lifting it. Make VERY sure those rear stands are properly placed and that the car can't slide back.

[mach2andy]

Hi Jerry
If you take a look at these pics, you'll see what I came up with when I had to remove and refit my engine. My garage has a concrete roof, so I was able to wind the 2 acrow props [normally used by builders] in very tight.
The top portion of the prop is the same diameter as a scaffolding pole, so a couple of scaffolding clips held the cross member in position.
The front of the car was initially lifted using my hoist. You can see from the bottom pic where I fitted the strap. I then supported the car on axel stands at the fwd ends of the chassis rail and a jack under the picture frame to try to balance the load a bit.
I disconnected the engine and transmission as a unit and dropped it down onto a trolley with 4 castoring wheels using my hoist. A load leveller is very useful to make sure the engine comes down and goes up level.
Once the engine was on the trolley, I then attached the hoist to the top of the picture frame and lifted the whole front of the car high enough to roll the engine out forwards. I then strapped the front of the car to the cross member, and once secure, moved the hoist out of the way and rolled the engine out. The refit was pretty much the reverse. There was no need to remove the water pump pulley on my car. Also, there was no need to have the rear end of the car up on axel stands. There was plenty of clearance at the rear of the car with the exhaust removed. The top pic shows the belt and braces way I supported the front of the car once the engine had been reinstalled.
Personally, lifting the front of the car with the rear supported on axel stands is something I would never even contemplate. As with a lot of these bigger jobs, you need to work slowly, and be ultra careful. I did the removal and refit working entirely - as usual - on my own.
Hope this is clear. Send me a PM if you want any more clarity and I'll give you a ring.

[Jerryslinn]

Thanks everyone for advice - will post fotos when engine is in