Sump Removal - Crankshaft Position

[Retroman]

Hi,
Having trouble getting the sump off my series 2 auto.
I have the engine jacked up until the bell housing mount is touching the bulkhead, and dipstick out and although I can now drop the sump an inch or so it will not slide forward to clear the crossmember.
I have read that the crankshaft woodruff keys should be at the 930 position to keep the webbing out of the way but as they are both in line ne cannot picture what this advice actually means.
Should the keys be at half past ie 180 degrees or 9 o’clock ie 270s when viewing the from of the crank?
Also have I missed dismantling/ loosening something elsewhere to release the sump?
Help once again required!!
Nigel.

[Retroman]

Hi,
I have already removed the pulleys, cone spacer, seal and radiator.
Nigel.

[mgcjag]

Hi Nigel...note this comment from a JagLovers forum comment..."I have never found that I needed to index the crank to any specific position. I have found, tho, that if you have the automatic trans there is a "“splash guard” at the back of the sump that I just prise back a wee bit so the rear lip can pass and then prise forward when re-installing. The auto box version cars also have hangers for the trans cooling lines that like to hang up on the long right lip but you probably have a manual gearbox".......... post number 23 in this thread also gives a detailed explenation on sump removal......I think the 9.30 position comment in other posts refers to a clock face and position of hour hand an 9.30.. Steve http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php? ... f41#p84461

[abowie]

When I did this I felt that the critical issue was to have as much vertical clearance between the sump and the rearmost web on the crankshaft.

As such I rotated the motor so that the #1 piston was in the middle of its travel, ie mid bore.

[PeterCrespin]

When I did this I felt that the critical issue was to have as much vertical clearance between the sump and the rearmost web on the crankshaft.

As such I rotated the motor so that the #1 piston was in the middle of its travel, ie mid bore.

Which is 9 or 3 depending whether it’s going up or down.

[mtnjag]

Autos look a little different than my manual trans from some comments above, but don’t know why you need to remove radiator? Assume you removed oil return line.

I pulled the balancer/pulley, left the cone/front seal, jacked the trans up slightly, and fiddled around to get the crank in the right position. To do that I was under the car, car on stands but a lift would have been heaven, with a ratchet on the crank bolt. Then let the pan down and adjusted the crank as needed with the ratchet to provide the freedom to drop and slide the pan out. You should be able to peak in and see crank position. You may turn the crank slightly as you let the pan down to aid the drop. Plugs out.

You may find it helpful to remove the front studs. I placed a temporary stud on each side part way back to aid in alignment when reinstalling. Used a Cometic gasket with no sealer other than a dab at the seal ends which made the reinstall easier.

[tim wood]

When I did mine (4.2 manual transmission) I had the woodruff key slot pointing to the 1 o’clock position when view from the front.

As others have said getting the clearance between the sump and reaction plate is the key.
Plenty of threads on this

[Retroman]

Hi Guys,

Many thanks for all the advice.

Surgery has now been completed successfully.

Just past 9 o'clock i.e. 930 and removal of the tin convertor protector plate plus some jiggling did the trick and I was able to draw it out fit the new seals etc and refit.

I was surprised that the rear seal was still cork as I would have thought that a rubber type would provide a better seal but so far so good.

I took the radiator out as this is a simple task and provided me with extra room to use my air impact wrench to get the pulley bolts and crankshaft damper bolt off without having to jam the engine. They were tight!!

From my experience taking the radiator out made access far easier and may in the long run save time and fiddling with socket extensions etc that are either too long or too short to clear the frames and steering rack etc.

Thanks once again.

Nigel.