i am afraid to ask....

[ChrisC]

ok hands up I have an idiot question....

I have moved to an electronic distributor which obviously doesnt have points - how do I setup the static timing so that the engine can at least start so that I can then adjust it with a strobe.

With points it was easy to get close with a meter - but I am not used to this new fangled electrickery magic... so I am a bit lost...

<ducks down to avoid the incoming abuse....>

[Tony]

Interesting, but stupid.

I am with you, no idea. In a new engine it would get its timing off the crank sensor. In your case it is when the little laser beam gets cut of by the slot in the rotor arm. Can you not just make sure the rotor arm is pointing to no 1 terminal on the dis cap when no 1 cylinder is on top dead centre, That should get you going.

The other option is to wait until somebody who knows comes on line.

[ChrisC]

I can wait Tony - I am just documenting how to fit the petrol tank without losing all the paint or skin or your knuckles :) So I am not quite ready to fire it up yet...

Ignoring the fact that I havnt fitted any of the wiring looms yet

[1954Etype]

ok hands up I have an idiot question....

I have moved to an electronic distributor which obviously doesnt have points - how do I setup the static timing so that the engine can at least start so that I can then adjust it with a strobe.

With points it was easy to get close with a meter - but I am not used to this new fangled electrickery magic... so I am a bit lost...

<ducks down to avoid the incoming abuse....>

I am almost afraid to answer! It is the same method as for a dizzie with points. You line up the rotor arm on number 1. On the 123, there is an LED that (from memory) goes out (or comes on) when you turn the distributor a small amount which means that it is statically timed.

[KingRichard]

ok hands up I have an idiot question....

I have moved to an electronic distributor which obviously doesnt have points - how do I setup the static timing so that the engine can at least start so that I can then adjust it with a strobe.

With points it was easy to get close with a meter - but I am not used to this new fangled electrickery magic... so I am a bit lost...

<ducks down to avoid the incoming abuse....>

Hi Chris,
Had the same question recently with my SimonBBC 45D6. That one hasn't got a led as on the 123, but I did line up one of the 6 magnetic points on the trigger ring (easy to indentify) to the center of the module (has a mark too). That is the static position. I used cilinder #6 at 10 degrees BTDC by the way.
At first start last monday evening, it turned out to be very correctly.

Tacho doesn't work though, but thats another question from me I posted. Any answers anyone?

Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Richard

[andy303]

You should be able to do the static timing just as described in a Haynes manual or even the Owners Handbook. Use an old instrument bulb with leads fitted with alligator clips, attach one to the neg. terminal of the coil, the other to ground. Rotate the engine to the static timing mark (10 BTDC). The rotor should be pointing to the first cylinder (No.6). Switch on the ignition and turn the dizzy until the light just come on, and you are there.

You didn't say which ignition system you are using, but you should be able to google the instructions.

Heres a link to the Lumenition setup: http://www.bccp.nl/techdocs/PMA50ins.pdf

[mgcjag]

Hi Chris........What make distributor do you have?....Steve