Fitting the badge bar into the nose of the bonnet - how?
#1 Fitting the badge bar into the nose of the bonnet - how?
Okay - I have to ask because I am going nuts with frustration...
I have both front bumpers fitted slightly loose so that i have a little bit of play.
I have the small curved end pieces fitted to the over riders.
The badge bar can be located into those curved end pieces but I will be darned if I can work out how to do the securing bolts up...
Whats the secret please?
If I dont hear back today - i will remove the small curved piece from the over riders, bolt them to the badge bar and then try to rebolt them back onto the over riders... is that the secret? Darn fiddly if it is.
Thanks all
I have both front bumpers fitted slightly loose so that i have a little bit of play.
I have the small curved end pieces fitted to the over riders.
The badge bar can be located into those curved end pieces but I will be darned if I can work out how to do the securing bolts up...
Whats the secret please?
If I dont hear back today - i will remove the small curved piece from the over riders, bolt them to the badge bar and then try to rebolt them back onto the over riders... is that the secret? Darn fiddly if it is.
Thanks all
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
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#2
If you don't get a reply before I get home, I'll check to see how my badge bar is attached. Unfortunately, that will be around 1100 PM on your side of the pond.
Mark
Mark
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#3
Maybe not the recommended way but I bolted the whole lot together and fixed it to the car in one piece. You need a helper to support the other end so as not to fracture the motif bar.
Dave
Dave
1963 OTS
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#4
Thanks Mark - I know how it is attached - i just cant do the bolts up because there is no room...
Dave's idea would work but fitting both bumpers at once along with the badgebar is not something I can realistically do on my own :(
They cant have done it that way in the factory surely...
Dave's idea would work but fitting both bumpers at once along with the badgebar is not something I can realistically do on my own :(
They cant have done it that way in the factory surely...
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
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#5
I recall that as being a pretty fiddly job. I found the problem was that there is more clearance around the bolt heads when they are nearly done up than there is when they are first started due to curvature of the nose of the bonnet aperture. With a short 1/4" drive socket and slim extension bar I could get the socket on the bolt heads when they were slightly loose, but could not get the bolts started.
I think what I did was detach one of the over-riders (one bolt into the back of the over-rider from behind the bumper), loosen the other one, attach the bar to the back of the short "horn" projecting from the loosened overrider and do the bolt most of the way up but still allowing some movement, then attatched the bar to the other horn on the removed over-rider, again slightly loosely, then refitted the other over-rider to the bumper and then tightened everything up.
Worth making sure all the bolts involved, and their captive nuts etc, are clean, undamaged and lightly oiled so they screw in and out easily by hand before you start. You don't want to have to use tools to get these bolts started.
I think what I did was detach one of the over-riders (one bolt into the back of the over-rider from behind the bumper), loosen the other one, attach the bar to the back of the short "horn" projecting from the loosened overrider and do the bolt most of the way up but still allowing some movement, then attatched the bar to the other horn on the removed over-rider, again slightly loosely, then refitted the other over-rider to the bumper and then tightened everything up.
Worth making sure all the bolts involved, and their captive nuts etc, are clean, undamaged and lightly oiled so they screw in and out easily by hand before you start. You don't want to have to use tools to get these bolts started.
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
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#6
Ah.... I *like* that...
Yes of course.... the over riders are held on with one bolt and are MUCH easier to take on and off... I will give that a go tonight. Many thanks
Yes of course.... the over riders are held on with one bolt and are MUCH easier to take on and off... I will give that a go tonight. Many thanks
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
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#7
Why not? Sub assemble bumpers then two people to fit. Less chance of damaging the paintwork possibly.ChrisC wrote:Thanks Mark - I know how it is attached - i just cant do the bolts up because there is no room...
Dave's idea would work but fitting both bumpers at once along with the badgebar is not something I can realistically do on my own :(
They cant have done it that way in the factory surely...
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#8
Yahooo.... thankyou Kingzetts... a matter of moments and the over-riders are off... loosly bolt the badgebar to both over riders and carefully replace the assembly.
insert and do up the over rider bolts, tighten up the badge bar bolts. Job Done.
Nice. So happy. THIS is the way they must have done it in the factory.
insert and do up the over rider bolts, tighten up the badge bar bolts. Job Done.
Nice. So happy. THIS is the way they must have done it in the factory.
1964 FHC 4.2
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
Etype restoration blog http://connor.org.uk
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#9 badge bar fittings
Hi, I 'm just sorting out my badge bar.
To mount the bar to the horns the suppliers offer part n. C24792. This is actually 2 bolts joined 'head to head' by piece of a rubber. See http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-E-TYPE ... 484331f4ba
I can't understand how to use these parts. If you screw one end into the threaded hole on the horn then put the badge bar on the other end fixed by a nut it looks all wrong - the bar doesn't fit into the horns properly and wobbles a lot. If you fit the bar into the horns with the part acting as a bolt the rubber bit is doing nothing and you get a chunk of the thread sticking out behind the bar.
So what's the point of the part?
Can't you just use a bolt with a rubber washer either side of the hole on the badge bar end?
To mount the bar to the horns the suppliers offer part n. C24792. This is actually 2 bolts joined 'head to head' by piece of a rubber. See http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-E-TYPE ... 484331f4ba
I can't understand how to use these parts. If you screw one end into the threaded hole on the horn then put the badge bar on the other end fixed by a nut it looks all wrong - the bar doesn't fit into the horns properly and wobbles a lot. If you fit the bar into the horns with the part acting as a bolt the rubber bit is doing nothing and you get a chunk of the thread sticking out behind the bar.
So what's the point of the part?
Can't you just use a bolt with a rubber washer either side of the hole on the badge bar end?
Steve
S1 4.2 FHC 1966
S1 4.2 FHC 1966
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#10
The 3.8 parts catalogue has the motif bar held into the bumper horms with a bolt, which is how mine is secured.
The 4.2 parts catalogue does indeed show a rubber bobbin in place of the bolts, but since the bumper horms and the motif bar are the same part numbers in both cases, there is no reason why you can't use a bolt if you prefer.
I surmise that as the motif bar is a relatively fragile item and easily cracked if the bolts are overtightened or it is stressed while assembling, the factory moved to the rubber bobbins to reduce the risk of breakages in service. Also, as both I and Chris found, it is a bit tricky to attach the motif bar using bolts and maybe the bobbin approach avoids having to remove one of the overriders to do so.
The 4.2 parts catalogue does indeed show a rubber bobbin in place of the bolts, but since the bumper horms and the motif bar are the same part numbers in both cases, there is no reason why you can't use a bolt if you prefer.
I surmise that as the motif bar is a relatively fragile item and easily cracked if the bolts are overtightened or it is stressed while assembling, the factory moved to the rubber bobbins to reduce the risk of breakages in service. Also, as both I and Chris found, it is a bit tricky to attach the motif bar using bolts and maybe the bobbin approach avoids having to remove one of the overriders to do so.
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
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#11
I opted for the rubber bobbins method to avoid fracturing the motif bar through vibration. The bobbin attaches to the bumper horn and the motif bar to the the bobbin. Mine looks OK and there is indeed movement in the bar if you apply pressure to it. I did have one bobbin fail on me some years ago but I think that was down to poor fitting. You need to make sure the bobbins are not under any stress after fitting the motif bar so don't force anything.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB; S1 FHC ODB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#12 badge bar bobbins
Interesting that I now see the official parts list gives item BD24448 as the bobbin, rather than C24792.
The parts suppliers don't offer the former item, however the latter item is used to support the petrol pump on 4.2 cars. So maybe the suppliers think they are very similar.
As said previously when I assemble the whole lot as David suggests the bar is not going far enough into the notch area in the horns as it is clearly designed to do.
Also the C24792 bobbins are quite flimsy with one of my bolt heads already coming loose in the rubber after tightening it up a bit.
The parts suppliers don't offer the former item, however the latter item is used to support the petrol pump on 4.2 cars. So maybe the suppliers think they are very similar.
As said previously when I assemble the whole lot as David suggests the bar is not going far enough into the notch area in the horns as it is clearly designed to do.
Also the C24792 bobbins are quite flimsy with one of my bolt heads already coming loose in the rubber after tightening it up a bit.
Steve
S1 4.2 FHC 1966
S1 4.2 FHC 1966
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#13
I did this last weekend. Mine had originally been fitted with the C24792 bobbin but over time the rubber had perished leaving the bolt in the overrider and inaccessible. I just took off the whole bumper leaving the overrider intact. The bobbin bolt was badly rusted in and needed drilling and removing with a screw extractor. I then refitted the new C24792 bobbin and reinstalled the bumper. Rinse and repeat for the other side. Without the drilling it would have taken under half an hour.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#14 finished job
I have now finished putting it all together.
As said before it is easiest to assemble the 2 over-riders and the badge bar together and then offer the whole assembly up where it is fixed using the bolt for each over-rider.
I initially started using the bobbins however on one of them, one of the 2 bolts comprising the bobbin became very wobbly and was clearly not secure.
So I ripped both bolts from the bobbin and just used these to secure each end of the bar to the horns. To make it have a bit of flexibility I used a rubber washer either side of the holes in the ends of the bar. In my case I cut up rubber grommets of appropriate size.
As a result I am very pleased with the end result because the bar now goes right into the cut outs on the horns and is very secure with no chance of failure as can clearly happen when using the bobbins.
On reflection I think the bobbins I have (quite new) are of poor quality because the heads of the bolts they are made from have only about 1mm of rubber around them and therefore can easily come apart when the bobbin is tightened up. I cannot imagine that this is how the original part would have been made and also as said previously they are not the original part as listed in the Jaguar parts list.
As said before it is easiest to assemble the 2 over-riders and the badge bar together and then offer the whole assembly up where it is fixed using the bolt for each over-rider.
I initially started using the bobbins however on one of them, one of the 2 bolts comprising the bobbin became very wobbly and was clearly not secure.
So I ripped both bolts from the bobbin and just used these to secure each end of the bar to the horns. To make it have a bit of flexibility I used a rubber washer either side of the holes in the ends of the bar. In my case I cut up rubber grommets of appropriate size.
As a result I am very pleased with the end result because the bar now goes right into the cut outs on the horns and is very secure with no chance of failure as can clearly happen when using the bobbins.
On reflection I think the bobbins I have (quite new) are of poor quality because the heads of the bolts they are made from have only about 1mm of rubber around them and therefore can easily come apart when the bobbin is tightened up. I cannot imagine that this is how the original part would have been made and also as said previously they are not the original part as listed in the Jaguar parts list.
Steve
S1 4.2 FHC 1966
S1 4.2 FHC 1966
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#15
The bolts I removed had a round flat head the same diameter as the rubber, and perhaps 3mm thick.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#16 Re: Fitting the badge bar into the nose of the bonnet - how?
Anyone looking around at this topic might like to look here too, both being relevant and helpful.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12039
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12039
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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#17 Re: Fitting the badge bar into the nose of the bonnet - how?
The trick for me was to use Allen head screws and a short extension.
Eric
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