Hi guys
Got caught in the rain on Sunday and had a steady drip problem all across the inside of the front of the screen. On inspection the fit isn't very even (the front rail sits much lower over the screen trim on one side). Is there a right or wrong way to adjust, or is it just a case of trying to level things up on the catch adjustments by slacking them all off and gradually adjusting down? Also how far should the hood trim cover the screen trim? Its a replacement hood fitted some time ago.
To be fair i had a feeling it wasn't right as the hood is never simple to fasten when putting it up, the catches never pull up easily, they either spin off the catch or don't seem to pull down well enough, certainly compared to my MGC which is a nice tight fit. All advice much appreciated, thanks!
Hood Adjustment OTS
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Topic author - Posts: 178
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- Location: Dorset, UK
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#2 Re: Hood Adjustment OTS
Colin, here is a topic that might help, though sadly some of the photos have been lost in the photobucket madness: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=5960
Geoff
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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Topic author - Posts: 178
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#3 Re: Hood Adjustment OTS
Thanks Geoff, very helpful!
Colin
Series 2 OTS, 280SL
Series 2 OTS, 280SL
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#4 Re: Hood Adjustment OTS
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10352&hilit=hood+fr ... =20#p87194
Colin, see if you can find that post, not 100pc sure the link is correct but the thread is titled Roof / Hood / Spar and I started it March 16 2017. You may need to go back one page. I will re-do the now missing early pictures on this, but most of what you need to read comes later.
I believe it is the most complete analysis available on the Forum of how the hood-pan, wooden spar, hood-rails, and windscreen chrome trim interact.
I wasn't an expert when I started but went so far back to first principles that I'd be pretty confident now about doing another or advising someone, so if the info I posted doesn't answer your questions I would be happy to discuss any other details with you.
I am a fanatical believer that proper and successful resolution of this area requires getting the wooden front frame in the right position, first, QUITE INDEPENDANTLY of the hood pan and the hood rails, then getting the hood rails and front pan in the right place QUITE INDEPENDANTLY of the woodwork, and ONLY THEN working out how to join one to the other such that both structures, that's to say the wood and the metal, can be united without modifying the optimised positions of either.
Only in this way did I get perfect chrome-trim overlap, AND perect hood-windscreen sealing without any recourse to extra rubber sections or blow-up seals.
No slight intended on the latter, I fully intended incorporating one into my rebuilt hood (intending to disguise it INSIDE the hollow square rubber seal) but in the event the standard set-up works perfectly if all the surrounding components are the right shape and aligned correctly.
It was a time-consuming and tricky job, but highly satisfying.
Rory
Colin, see if you can find that post, not 100pc sure the link is correct but the thread is titled Roof / Hood / Spar and I started it March 16 2017. You may need to go back one page. I will re-do the now missing early pictures on this, but most of what you need to read comes later.
I believe it is the most complete analysis available on the Forum of how the hood-pan, wooden spar, hood-rails, and windscreen chrome trim interact.
I wasn't an expert when I started but went so far back to first principles that I'd be pretty confident now about doing another or advising someone, so if the info I posted doesn't answer your questions I would be happy to discuss any other details with you.
I am a fanatical believer that proper and successful resolution of this area requires getting the wooden front frame in the right position, first, QUITE INDEPENDANTLY of the hood pan and the hood rails, then getting the hood rails and front pan in the right place QUITE INDEPENDANTLY of the woodwork, and ONLY THEN working out how to join one to the other such that both structures, that's to say the wood and the metal, can be united without modifying the optimised positions of either.
Only in this way did I get perfect chrome-trim overlap, AND perect hood-windscreen sealing without any recourse to extra rubber sections or blow-up seals.
No slight intended on the latter, I fully intended incorporating one into my rebuilt hood (intending to disguise it INSIDE the hollow square rubber seal) but in the event the standard set-up works perfectly if all the surrounding components are the right shape and aligned correctly.
It was a time-consuming and tricky job, but highly satisfying.
Rory
Rory
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
3.8 OTS S1 Opalescent Silver Grey - built May 28th 1962
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Topic author - Posts: 178
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#5 Re: Hood Adjustment OTS
Wow thanks Rory, there's lots of info there. Hopefully it wont be a complete strip down but it certainly isnt very usable in the wet at present. I plan to start looking at this at the weekend so I'll let you know how it goes. As you can see its a mile out at present.
Cheers
Cheers
Colin
Series 2 OTS, 280SL
Series 2 OTS, 280SL
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