Crankshaft seals

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ALAN COCHRANE
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#1 Crankshaft seals

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Wed Jan 10, 2018 3:52 pm

Crankshaft seal question this time.

I received the following front crank seal from SNGB:-

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/Englis ... 835637bf21

I'm assuming the yellow tube remains in place until the timing cover is on and the seal is sitting on the crankcase bushing and then it's withdrawn?
It looks like the tube is included to prevent damage to the seal while fitting.

Second question should I smear Hylomar on the inside and outside of both this seal and the one that fits in the half moon recess in the rear of the sump?

Thanks Again

Alan
1962 S1 OTS-850389,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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politeperson
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#2 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by politeperson » Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:58 pm

I did this in situ last year. I used the seal you are considering. I also kept the oil-slinger in place and used Wynns Gasket.The yellow sleeve is just to prevent the lip from getting damaged in transit.

It worked at treat.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10590
James

L.J.K. Setright was right.
"You just cant beat a good E-type"

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#3 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by flatfloor 3.8 » Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:11 pm

Use Stag Wellseal on all the surfaces. This is what Jaguar used.
Last edited by flatfloor 3.8 on Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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abowie
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#4 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by abowie » Wed Jan 10, 2018 8:08 pm

If you use the yellow tube as an installation device you will put the seal in backwards.

Jaguar recommends removing the slinger if you use the teflon seal.

You should use a new seal runner if you fit a the teflon seal.

It is worth reading previous threads about these seals.
Andrew.
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#5 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Wed Jan 10, 2018 8:39 pm

James

Thanks for the info and link. Like you I was unaware that this was a teflon seal. I'm now in a bit of a quandary as to how I should proceed. The Jaguar kit-JLM 1171 is no longer available and SNGB don't seem to sell the O ring and spacer.
Should I just get the original rubber spacer?
Advice please.

Cheers

Alan
1962 S1 OTS-850389,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#6 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by PeterCrespin » Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:19 pm

They don’t sell the kit but they do the seal, spacer and o-rings x2 separately. I just bought three of everything off them in the US a few weeks ago. Am building some engines, in case you think I’m just hoarding stock against the bitcoin bubble.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 79 S2 XJ12L; 97 XJ6L

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#7 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:59 pm

Peter

Good news. Any chance you could tell me the part numbers for the O ring and spacer?

Cheers

Alan
1962 S1 OTS-850389,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#8 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by politeperson » Thu Jan 11, 2018 10:16 am

I think the spacer you refer to is this distance piece.(Part no 14).

The seal tends to wear a groove in the metal causing the leak.

https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/Englis ... %20PISTONS

My problem was exacerbated by the fact that the engine was in the car. The new distance piece (above) had no woodruff key cut into it to match the key in the crank in noticed. I was cautious about damaging the crank wood ruff key in situ as I could not get a clear swing to remove it.

Luckily I had an unworn "as new" spacer piece, with the correct woodruff key channel, on my old engine under the bench, which popped on once the new teflon seal was back in place.

Seems to work fine. Hope I haven't just added to your confusion. I was pretty confused until I had finished the job I must say.

So just to be clear, I now have a leak free teflon seal, with a replacement distance piece (with woodruff key slot) with the original slinger still in place, fitted in situ.

The reasoning behind removing the slinger is that the seal will get hot if it does not receive splash lubrication. I wasn't so sure about this as this part of the engine can only get so hot!

Remember I have only done this once, others on this forum will have much more experience than me.

Time will tell, 2,500 miles on it so far, not a drip.
James

L.J.K. Setright was right.
"You just cant beat a good E-type"

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#9 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Thu Jan 11, 2018 11:45 am

James

No confusion and thanks for the explanation.

The distance piece I was referring to was the longer one to compensate for the lack of an oil slinger. I had already come across part number C40147 but now realise that it's the standard length item. The only thing I'm still a bit confused about now is the fact that the replacement standard length distance piece doesn't seem to have a slot to accept the Woodruff key. I'm assuming that you also have to remove/modify the Woodruff key from the crankshaft to allow the new distance piece to fit.
I'm assuming your spare was a standard one because you kept the oil slinger.
So I now see that the standard distance piece can be used with the Teflon seal and without the oil slinger.
In short I need to find the part number for the distance piece that fits without an oil slinger. Or alternatively a replacement O ring for my existing distance piece, which is in excellent condition


Cheers

Alan
Last edited by ALAN COCHRANE on Thu Jan 11, 2018 12:26 pm, edited 3 times in total.
1962 S1 OTS-850389,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#10 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by politeperson » Thu Jan 11, 2018 12:15 pm

Correct Alan,

The slinger is very thin though 1.5mm?.

Not sure how crucial the overall length if the distance piece is.

Probably explains itself easily when it is in front of you on the bench.
James

L.J.K. Setright was right.
"You just cant beat a good E-type"

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#11 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Thu Jan 11, 2018 7:51 pm

James

After much googling I think I've finally cracked it. The distance piece C40147 with the integral O ring is the slightly longer version to be used if the oil slinger is removed.
The only thing I'm not sure about is what you do with the crankshaft Woodruff key since C40147 doesn't appear to have a slot cut for it?

Cheers

Alan
1962 S1 OTS-850389,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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#12 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by 64etype » Fri Jan 12, 2018 3:46 pm

It's clamped in position by the compression force from the large bolt at the end of the crank (no Woodruff key).

As mentioned earlier, do read earlier threads on this subject as some have encountered issues with installing the Teflon seal...specifically the fit in the groove in the timing cover and oil pan. This thread has several links to old threads. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11638&p=94392&hilit ... eal#p94392
Eric

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#13 Re: Crankshaft seals

Post by ALAN COCHRANE » Fri Jan 12, 2018 6:26 pm

Eric
Thanks for the info.
I have now read all the threads and as a result I'm concerned about fitting the teflon seal. The recurring point seems to be that the curvature of the early 3.8 timing cover and sump recesses are too tight for the seal to sit concentrically around the spacer. My engine is a 1961 3.8 so would fall into this category.
I also see that the new distance spacer with the O ring does have a recess to cater for the timing sprocket Woodruff key-this is not visible in any of the images I've seen.
So I think I'll fit the rubber/nitrate seal new spacer with the O ring and refit the oil slinger.

Thanks Again

Alan
1962 S1 OTS-850389,1968 Triumph TR250, 1971 Triumph GT6 Mk3, 2008 Porsche Boxster RS60 Spyder

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