[solved] S1 heater box: secret locking?

[paydase]

Hi all,
Preparing to refurb my heater box, I have tried unsuccessfully to remove the front plate of the box after having removed the 6 holding screws (including the one below) even by prying off the plate.
The external part of the bottom center axle that allows moving the interior air flap seems to be solidly bound to the plate.
It seems to me that the axle should slide freely through the plate unless rust has bound the axle, a washer and the plate together.
Could you confirm that I should insist in prying off the plate to remove it?
Thanks for your help

[abowie]

They're frequently very difficult to get that shaft out of.

[1954Etype]

As Andrew says, they can be really tight. Be careful prying it off as you will bend the end cover. Soak it in penetrating oil and slowly work the flap up and down. If it is really stuck, carefully apply some heat with a hot air gun.

When you have it back together, it is a good idea to lubricate this shaft every so often as it will bind up again.

[Simon P]

As Andrew says, they can be really tight. Be careful prying it off as you will bend the end cover. Soak it in penetrating oil and slowly work the flap up and down. If it is really stuck, carefully apply some heat with a hot air gun.

When you have it back together, it is a good idea to lubricate this shaft every so often as it will bind up again.

Sounds like advice from Swiss Toni! "You know, restoring an E-type is very much like making love to a beautiful woman...."

[Jeremy]

And you might try Plus Gas, which I've found to be the most effective penetrating oil - better than WD40.
In my case that sticking shaft was the least of the problems... The inside of the box was in a terrible state and I ended up scrapping it. Hope yours is OK...

[paydase]

Thanks everybody.
I was really starting to doubt...
I will go back and charm the snake!

[paydase]

It was a real pig but finally I unlocked the Ali Baba door!
The advice to first heat it with an hot air gun allowed to move the shaft by hammering it.
Thank you for the tip, now dismantled.

I will start to restore the radiator first, hoping that it can be put back to life.
Seems to me that it has in/out copper tubes and copper fins but that the two blocks on each side and the frame holding the fins are made of aluminum.

Would the right way to treat it be immersing the whole radiator in a diluted phosphoric bath for some time or/and to flow the phosphoric acid in the pipes?

[ralphr1780]

Good progress Serge.
As for the radiator, personally I would not hesitate and straightly install a new one first tested on the bench.
I would hate restoring then installing, and facing a leak some time later.

[MarkRado]

Serge,
depending on how you are going to use your car, this would be be the opportunity to upgrade the unit. Using mine frequently in autumn and sometimes even in winter, I can tell that heater core and fan definitely leave a lot to be desired. There are a few threads on the forum about improvement; I ve already got the Fiero fan, it only needs to be installed Ah, and of course you need an upgraded Matrix.

[Series1 Stu]

I too have the Fiero fan and motor ready to go in but am still undecided about the matrix. Are there any upgraded heaters other than the Clayton Classics item?

Regards

[mark10337]

Yes. I'm very pleased with the upgraded unit from M&C Wilkinson. Keeps me warm on winter drives.

[rswaffie]

Hi Mark
Regarding the M&C heater motor, I’m just rebuilding the heating system and mine came with a large resistor unit, that it looks like clamps to the motor body. There were no diags or instructions so I’m not sure of the correct position for this. Did you use this, or the original resistor?
I’m guessing it would sit below the 3 brackets, over the Clayton sticker?

[mark10337]

Hi

I only replaced the heater core and not the motor as well. I would recommend using the full package they supplied to you as that resistor will be matched and checked with that motor's specification. The resistor is usually mounted so it is on the bulkhead side

[rswaffie]

Cheers Mark.

[mark10337]

looking at the picture again you can just see 1 of the 2 holes on the base plate where the resistor should be riveted to.