Parts for rebuilding Front Suspension

[Pex]

First of all, sorry for my bad "technical" English, it's hard to explain certain things when English isn't my native language.

I'm planning to rebuild my front suspension this winter and need some opinions and advice on the way, I've read so many threads regarding this issue but it just makes me more confused than before since there are so many opinions of how it should be done.

I have a two pillar car lift, Haynes book, Internet, tools, a warm garage and a refrigerator with beer( think I may need some during the trip) so I'm ready for this.

I've already bought uprated lower ball joint and "steering" Track rod and will now make an order from SNG Barratt (advertising?) for the rest.
-Uprated upper wishbones.
-New Polyurethane bushings kit.
-Adjustable Reaction plate.
- ?????? (Missing part?)

My plan is to:

unload TB, Remove shock absorber and upper Wishbone etc.

Mark TB position with a dremel tool.

Remove lower wishbone together with TB, then disassemble everything for repaint etc. and since it seems common that the TB "twists" while they are unloaded and therefor makes it hard to get the "original" ride height back so I think an adjustable reaction plate will save time in the end.

I will also remove the "wheel hub and vertical link" to check bearings etc, is there anything that must be replaced when dissembling it?

I'm quite confident with the procedure based on what I've read so far but is there any more parts that I must have to complete this?

[Gfhug]

Peter, your English is very good, so don't worry. And you've got the beer ready
By marking the TB do you mean show which is right hand and which is left? That is important so they go back on the correct side.
If you only have the Haynes manual you might find it useful to print out the sections from the original Jaguar technical manual, see here:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=700
Take lots of photos for your own records.

Good luck

Geoff

[Pex]

I've already found and checked the Left and Right markings on the TB
I thought it would be good to have the TB's current position marked at lower wishbone and rear mounting as a "starting point" to when I assemble it, then I can fine adjust the cars height using the adjustable reaction plate.
The current "ride height" seems to be within boundary's referring to Haynes so the markings will suite as a start reference for me.

[mgcjag]

Hi Peter....I have refurbished several E type front ends.....in my opinion the adjustable reaction plate is not required unless you are going to be changing your suspension settings for track use etc....there is infinate adjustment useing the splines at both ends of the torsion bars.......your removing your bars so will be cleaning and fettling all the splines so assembly and repositioning for ride height should not be a problem...use the setting links as per the service manual......if your ride height is not as you require if then it wont be a problem to move the torsion bars to suit......with the adjustable reaction plate you still need to release the torsion bar tension befor you can turn the adjuster as far as im aware....Steve

[Pex]

I thought it was enough to raise the car and letting the wishbone/wheel hung to unload the TB enough to adjust it.

So I still have to remove the shock absorber and loosen all the bolts to unload the TB even if I use an adjustible RP?

[mgcjag]

Hi Peter...you need to do some research on the adjustable reaction plates.....i know that some have had problems adjusting them without first releasing the tension....there are different adjustable plates available....I cant see the need for them......for road use once you have set the ride height thats it you wont need to adjust again...just my opinion....Steve

[Tom W]

Sounds like your workshop is well equipped. I did the job with axle stands and no beer fridge!

Don’t use a Dremel to mark the torsion bars, adding any notch in them risks creating a stress riser. Use a paint marker if you want to record where they were.

What are you trying to achieve with polybushes? Standard rubber bushes contribute some of the car’s spring stiffness. Polybushes pivot, so don’t provide the same affect, so the overall spring rate will be lower. Original bushes last well, and I find the car drives well on them. I’m with Steve on the adjustment reaction plate too, personally I don’t see the point either.

When you dismantle the hubs, it’s probably worth replacing the oil seal as a matter of course. If the bearings are worn, replace those too. Brake discs mount on the back of the hubs, so if you need to replace those later, you’ll be repeating the hub strip down. Sometimes stub axles can wear if a bearing inner has spun, but you won’t see that until it’s all stripped.

[Pex]

thanks for all input...

Adjustable Reaction plate is off the list, seems like you all are of the same opinion regarding this.
Hub Oil Seal, split pins, Nyloc Nuts etc. added to list.

There are a big difference in cost between standard rubber bushings and polyurethane and I'm now considering those made of rubber since I only drive the Pexmobile on normal roads, still polyurethane is more durable and description says: "Polyurethane front suspension bush kit. Contains upper and lower wishbone, anti roll bar mounting and drop link bushes. Comfort grade".
What is "comfort grade" compared to "original rubber bushings"

So if I go with rubber, Is there any difference in quality (planning to order from SNG).

[mgcjag]

Hi Peter...there has been a lot of discussion on the pros and cons of poly bushes over the years...so opinions are devided.........I looked into poly bushes quite a while ago and realised that their are very different options available red, blue, black etc.....also the way they work in the suspension......some grip in the fittings providing a degree of twist and others just pivot........I was looking at the black poly as supplied by SNGB for my project so called the manufacturer to discuss........I was told that black poly fitted exactly the same as the original rubber bushes..they were made to give as near as possible the same characteristics as the original rubber but with the advantages of resiliance that poly gives.....I have used and fitted them on several E types.....some will argue that the ride isnt the same as rubber.......I dont see or feel any disadvantage with them.......Steve
Edit....please note...the poly bushes i used above were branded as Polybush....i do not know what brand SNGB currently sypply but befor purchasing i would contact the manufacturer to discuss...link to company im refering to
https://www.polybush.co.uk/shop/jaguar/e-type

[Tom W]

I replaced all the original front suspension bushes for genuine metalastic a few years back. The old ones were split where the rubber pokes through the end of the housings. However, when I dismantled things, the rubber between the wishbones and frames, which wasn’t exposed to the atmosphere was perfect. It took a lot of work to actually remove the old bushes as they were still so tight. When I’d reassembled everything, the car felt near enough the same. I can only conclude, that whilst standard bushes may look deteriorated, they’re actually still functioning perfectly well.

I don’t know how much further polybushes are expected to last, but standard rubber seems to be good for tens of thousands of miles. I’ve had disappointing experiences with pattern rubber bushes though. Radius arm bushes that split within a few thousand miles, now replaced with genuine.

If you want to change the driving characteristics though, then you’ll need to look at polybushes, as there’s a range of hardnesses available. Whether the end result is an improvement though is open to debate, you might introduce some unpleasant characteristics.

My suggestion; buy genuine metalastic, and be certain your old bushes are actually failing before tearing everything apart!

[AshM]

Hi Peter

Did the front end of mine last winter - all parts from SNGB. Based on studying advice/experience on here I purchased;

- Standard rubber bushes set for the suspension and anti roll bar.
- Poly for the steering rack mountings.
- Inner / Outer hub bearings and shields.
- New hubs.
- Uprated Ball joints.

Delighted with all parts and the car drives beautifully.

Obviously many other combinations available but can only speak about what worked for me.

Good luck with the work.

cheers
Ash

[Pex]

Thanks for all your input, have some decision to make now.

Starting to make some measurement as a reference and now when I look closer to it it seems like the height is a little to high in the front. Measuring as in the spec A,B and C (Wishbone, fulcrum etc) it's about 10mm more than spec and between highest point on front and rear wing (see black marking on car) it differs 85mm. I have seen or read somewhere that those to points should be align in height but not sure.

Anyway, have to readjust the whole front when assembling it again.
This has been documented many times but I probably start a new thread under "Restoration Stories and Owners Gallery" where I can put pictures if I need advice or tips and hopefully at the end, show a fully rebuild front suspension.

[mgcjag]

Hi Peter...being basicaly hand made vehicles bodywork was never used as setting /measureing points for geometry/suspension setting....you need to refer to section J.Y.s.1 in the service manual where specific details for each S2 model are given......apart from the setting link dimensions for each variation in model the only measurement given is the A measurement which is just quoted as 9in min.....so you cant be higher than spec as its a minimum measurement quoted.....there is no specified measurement from Jaguar for rear height......there is no adjustment at the rear.....Steve