The 'E' Type Forum

Well the Grumbling, sorry Chatter has now disappeared following the addition of a bottle of "Red Line" LSD friction modifier. Thanks once again for all your help in particular Peter

Ciao

Ian

44DHR wrote:As Pete and I have been suggesting all along. The third page, (Page 1) describes the issue in the clutch packs and the remedy:-

http://clubs.hemmings.com/potomacramble ... 5315-3.pdf

regards,

Dave

Dave

Thanks for the information very useful

Regards

Ian

Thanks Guys for all your help, much appreciated.

Ive taken on board Peter Crispin original advice and ordered some LSD additive (Red Line) and will see if that works. As for the ten figures of eight, I just cant wait yahooooo!

Ciao

Ian

Thanks for the information but just trying to avoid disturbing the fuel tank so hopefully with a few scuffed fingers access to the rear of the light cluster can be gained. :D

Thanks for the reply much appreciated - so the tank can stay in-situ well thats a relief as I've hear so many horror stories about re fitting.
As you say a good winter job!
Thanks

Ive tried searching the forum but without much luck so could i ask the following question:

Is there a simple way of replacing both rear light clusters on a Series 1 4.2
e type (1966) ?

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks for your input

Many thanks

Thanks ill certainly give it a try, is it difficult to remove the top section of the steering column?

Could any one suggest a cure to a very annoying squeak which i think is coming from the steering rack or assembly? The noise only appears when the engine is hot after driving for say 30mins, when the steering wheel is turned a squeak appears, similarly when stationary and the s/wheel is turned then ...

Many thanks for all your help

Unfortunately I'm not in possession of page N20 - is it just a case of removing the two handles & the arm rest, but does the panel split at the top horizontal chrome strip?

Lusso

Im trying to fit an external mirror on my (Series one 1966) to my drivers side door and therefore need access to the inside of the door panel. Would it be possible for some one to advise as to how to gain access and any problems I'm likely to encounter?

Kind regards

Lusso[/b]

Many thanks for the info

I wonder if someone could help me, im trying to purchase the black holed cable ties with a locating peg. Obviously the standed commercially used cable ties are available but was hoping to use the original style as they appear wider.

Any thought?

Thanks for your help - the paint is original and the primer is etch primer so am i correct in saying all "should" be ok?

I have just read an article which states that if you spray self etching primer over existing paint work it will lift the original surface. Im in the process of repainting the underside of my series 1 bonnet and where i have rubbed back to the bare metal i have sprayed with etch primer but of course ...

Sorry but it looks a bit complicated sending my pics to an external site etc them uploading or some thing, but thanks for your help anyway much appreciated.

Hi Chris thanks for the info. Ive definitely the small snail like air box but it has a crinkle finish which i think is part of the plastic finish. Trouble is by the time ive cleaned it up including stripping some over spray paint a good proportion of the crinkle has gone. Think i may go down the sam...

I would like to refurb the bonnet air box on my series 1 and having cleaned off the old paint/underseal it looks as though the original finish was what i believe the trade refer to as "crackle finish".

Is it just a case of buying a black crack finish rattle can and re spraying?