The 'E' Type Forum

Take the otter apart and clean the contacts, re-test and it should be ok, I wouldn't just buy another until I knew why it wasn't working.

Try this thread, viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21767 , it also mentions the problems most cars have with varying tickover due to engine twist/movement.

They are captive in the bulkhead yes.

You need to measure positive to earth, not positive to trigger.

Can happen in hot weather and possible air locks, not sure if it's fuel tank level dependent, couple of times with my car it ran so long you'd think there was a leak somewhere, once started all was fine.

So, after a call to SU, they confirmed the above part number and tolerance is correct for the HD8. The parts arrived and were fitted yesterday. Pressed in and lathe set to 10thou protrusion, air screws adjusted slightly and she's very happy. If you have a gap at the front part of the bridge to pisto...

Anyone know the tolerance for the nylon stopper insert on the piston underside, ( damper cushion for piston drop to throat bridge ) , the SU part number for the smaller carbs is AUD 2435 and the air gap is 8 - 12 thou, but I think this is only for HS4/6 carbs, the HD8 having a separate air bypass wh...

The manual would be best to check first, It's quite a comprehensive section, but look at Service instructions. Having bought my S1 with one in, I did have much work to do, from memory the first thing I did was adjust the mechanism so ''Park'' and ''L'' actually matched the detents, then following th...

Yes I realised these are not E parts, they were fine regarding bolt holes, in fact they were exactly right and there were no other problems but for the main seating diameter.

I was in this position last month, with the suspension all over the garage floor I had to adapt the joint, I machined it down to a smaller diameter and fitted a ring that took up the slack, not something one should have to do.

Uncanny, they're almost identical, perhaps they're a plug through rest for the mechanism, I know on my car the winder mech rests on the door bottom when fully opened.

They look like the actual buttons that run in the lifting channel of the winder mechanism, bearings if you like.

You have original calipers?

4 pot, different story.

Along with the bullet connector which is also modern, process of elimination probably points to headlamp area, possibly a wire to a side lamp, why this would affect the beam I'm not sure. You need to get digging really, earths first then live, although new work follows no rules regarding colour, so ...

We have, Simon and myself have mentioned holes, rear lights number plate etc, the large donut seal below the tank.
Is your rear window seal good?

Neighbours doorcam footage?, there's certainly a lot of this on youtube, is there a Faceplant or instagram forum for stolen cars?

As mentioned above, the fuel take off and the fuel gauge sender, then next the holes. My car had no seal at the tank sump, this is a big hole, after making a ring from dense packing foam, I moved to the front bulkhead. Lots of holes here too, but probably the most obvious was the lack of a foam ring...

My 66 Auto has a missing Carb linkage part that connects the main throttle shaft to the kick down shaft, the number is C25804, does anyone know the dimensions for this or could someone measure this rod for me ( outside to outside will do ), the part is almost the same as the 3 linkage rods to the ca...

I would check the internal splines also, if okay they will have a good triangular section with flat sides, when they wear ( particularly on the rear, from braking and accelerating ) they round the sides and in extreme cases the section looks like a hollow ground knife edge.

If you are fitting as you mention above, a mechanical oil pressure gauge, then the only electrical connection would be for an illumination bulb.

I am in the same position at present as mine is leaking.
I bought a sheet of impregnated Cork ( 2mm I think ), when the time comes I'll make my own.
The after market ones looked far too thin.