The 'E' Type Forum

For large pedal position changes on these early pedal boxes, I absolutely agree the best way to approach this is to remove the pedal box. I managed to do it in situ on on my first E Type, but was young and agile then. On my current car, when dialing in the pedal heights, it took two tries to get thi...

I would say no. The silicone hoses can last pretty much forever. Good quality non silcone hoses can last for decades. So lifespan really isn't an issue with these cars typically doing single digit thousands of miles per year. Silicone hose typically has a gloss type of finish, often with a wrapped t...

Could you elaborate on the SNG discount for club membership? I have had an account with them for years and am unaware of such an automatic discount process. I've just gone through my account details and can't seem to find a place that shows my status in this regard, or any way to change it. Doing so...

Have you checked out the header tank from Cambridge Motorsport? It's a thing of beauty and can be ordered with choice of thermo switch bosses, and either polished or satin finished. I bought polished, but found it a bit blingy, so had it powder coated satin black. https://tinyurl.com/Cambridge-Tank ...

Or just use copper or aluminum crush washers on the banjo bolts. No soaking required. Tighten once and you're done.

I had forgotten about the so called extractor opening in the rear hatch on the S3's. The slightly humpback shape of the +2 suggests to me that airflow over the rear hatch would tend to detach and create a turbulent area towards the lower part of the hatch, similar to the the 2 seater FHC but beginni...

Overflowing carbs are much more likely due to a varnished (gummy with fuel residue due to lack of use) or worn needle valve. Floats do leak and 'sink', but that is relatively less likely to occur.

That crusty fan is no doubt an improvement over the original item, but its small diameter blades relative to the fan shroud is leaving airflow on the table. Best performance will come from a multi blade fan with a diameter slightly smaller than the shroud, i.e. Cool Cat. My otherwise stock S1 4.2 ca...

If you have access to a car lift, no, it is not necessary. If you place just the front wheels on the lift and raise it, the car (and engine) will end up at an extreme angle and the oil level will clear the return pipe. I replaced mine this way. While you may have lived to tell the tale, I would hig...

I would replace braided rubber based lines at no more than 10 years old, regardless of mileage. And if you have no idea how old it is, I would argue for replacement. There does exist stainless braided line with nylon or PTFE based interior hose (such as Aeromotive) that should last for decades if th...

So...what's the point of having them re-enameled if you are hiding them under a rain shield?

I believe the "lost"voltage is powering the coil (which is basically a transformer). Disconnect the negative wire from the coil (keeping points closed) and measure the voltage between the coil positive and the negative wire. Should be nominally the same as battery voltage. If that is not the case, y...

I would think the 8HP with its two OD gears (8th gear around .64 from Wikipedia) would be a step too far with a 2.88 rear end, yielding a 1.84 overall ratio in 8th. I think it rare to see a car with an OA ratio below 2, and there is a reason for that. You might find a car with the dynamic characteri...

Have you inspected the steering rack mounts to ensure they are tickety boo?

If your intent is to make a large part of the gearbox covering removable, keep in mind that is a structural part of the car and design accordingly.

I read it as a "5".

Photos show my three E-types, 2-3.8's and 1 4.2, (all series 1) had the nuts on the outside, nearer the wheel. I'm not asserting that was correct, just how they were, and how I replaced them when changing out discs. All the photos I could find online during an admittedly short search showed the nuts...

Though your photo is unfortunately out of focus, it still appears to me that the amount of metal present on the magnet is alarmingly high. To me this suggests a full disassembly to determine which components, exactly, are the source of all this material. I would think it would be fairly apparent onc...

I would disagree with your statement that the doors stiffen the tub when closed. The design of the latch mechanism precludes it. If there are signs of "overstressed" paint along the door sill line going back towards the wheel well, that, to me, would indicate serious rot or bodged repairs in the sil...

Agreed. Very normal. After only 25 miles or so at road speeds, oil temp can easily be 100C, and water temp 75-80. After a longer drive at speed, oil temp might be closer to 220F. So yeah, fuel engines get very hot in normal operation. I don't start to worry until the water temp gets to 90 and then d...