The 'E' Type Forum

Agreed. Very normal. After only 25 miles or so at road speeds, oil temp can easily be 100C, and water temp 75-80. After a longer drive at speed, oil temp might be closer to 220F. So yeah, fuel engines get very hot in normal operation. I don't start to worry until the water temp gets to 90 and then d...

If your car is "rattling over poor surfaces" I think the stiffness of the body tub would be among the last culprits. Much more likely to be worn suspension bushings, steering rack in need of rebuild, failed/loose exhaust hangers, misadjusted bonnet catches, or any number of other mechanical bits whi...

I find that with my front side windows closed, and the rear windows open, I can get exhaust odor in the cabin when driving at lower speeds (35mph or slower) through town. Once the speed climbs, the odor issue goes away. As for fuel smells in a FHC car, that would indicate you have a leaking or seepi...

Formerly an OBL panel?

The inline sensor tells me your unit is newer than mine. Am not sure if the speed sensor on yours could be a culprit, but I don't think so. Is wring from the speed sensor intact?

First, verify the voltage with a meter or test probe at the power connection to the steering control unit (a dedicated inline fuse for the steering may be in series with another fuse at the main fuse blocks). Now, with the car not running, and in a quiet environment, cycle power to the EZ unit. If i...

Extra long screws, used temporarily and threaded in just a few turns, can be helpful in getting the cage nuts aligned before installing the correct screws.

It just summed up why some “classic car enthusiasts” could be so annoying ! I would say virtually all of the many annoying run-ins I have had with automotive anoraks is with those who don't own, and have never owned, the car in question. While I have on occasion simply walked away, usually I verify...

Sounds as if it might be a tube for a mechanical (wet) oil pressure gauge. Usually these are tapped into the oil gallery at the location of the original electrical sender near the oil filer adapter. A quick look at the back of your oil pressure gauge will tell you if there is a threaded male boss to...

I would be inclined to use a Timesert repair here as it's a solid threaded sleeve that should be easier to get a good seal to the aluminum manifold using most any type of liquid sealant.

2mm is just under .080". That seems high to me. How does the other side compare?

If you have a triple SU car, then you have the ported vacuum source you need at the front carb. Why do you want to pursue full manifold vacuum?

In 2025 is digital storage really that expensive to limit image storage? Perhaps we could have a fundraising effort to upgrade the server or at least the storage drive(s).

After you remove the bolts holding the mount into the picture frame (and loosen the nut where the bushing is located) you can move the mount down just a bit and rotate it out of the picture frame.

And it's the only way to properly gauge how much corrosion has impacted the liner at the cooling slot locations.

On a 60 year old engine block, replacing the original sleeves should be obligatory.

Fuel varnish can be a powerful adhesive, especially in a tight clearance situation such as the jet to jet bridge guide. I would avoid using any abrasives to clean things up. Just clean everything throughly with petrol (or an ultrasonic cleaner if you have access to one). The sliding "L" shaped piece...

https://macgregorukcarparts.com

Not sure if they are still in business.

MacGregor UK Car Parts.

Are you sure it's the rear plate gasket and not the rear seal? I'm not sure, but I think the rear seal is replaceable without removing the rear plate.

Some heat from a propane torch or similar applied to the mounting flange area would be helpful.