The 'E' Type Forum

There are plenty of previous posts on this subject with further referred posts, such as :- https://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17770&p=144972&hilit=Battery#p144972 The only issue may be if some of these batteries are still available since the dates these posts were made. An important point...

Steve is correct at post #5 with the machine screw defined as 8-32. There is confusion over using the thread diameter as a measurement rather than using the screw gauge, which itself defines the thread diameter. The “8” is the screw gauge size and the “32” is the number of threads per inch. Defined ...

Steve, I think this is covered at post #4 in the attached link regarding the thread size, even though that states 8/32 inch with an UNC thread, which seems too big and too coarse to me, unless this is the replacement size to tap out stripped original threads. There still remains some confusion as to...

Not that I ever thought about it, but just out of interest I went and looked at my original 1967 4.2 FHC dipstick. I had replaced it many years ago with a new - possibly now a repro - dipstick. If it is a repro item, it is correct in every detail right down to the detailed lettering on the end. The ...

Al, You haven’t mentioned why you are looking at the diff - as if you suspected a rumbling or clunking - but most responses are referring to bearing issues. In my experience of working on these diffs - I can’t see what diff you have - but if it’s a Limited Slip Diff - my initial thoughts are wear an...

There you go :-

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21690

Post #2 has further tips in the first referenced additional post contained within that post.

Cheers,
Dave

Just back from a great weekend over at the 83rd Goodwood Members Meeting. Great racing and Goodwood celebrated the 65th Anniversary of the E-Type with an E-Type only race in the Protheroe Cup with many of the best known racing E-Types. I counted 28 E-Types lined up in the pits. 25 raced in the Proth...

Do both your horns work ? It could be one of the Earth wires to the two horns that are mounted on the bottom of the picture frame as sometimes these have an extra wire fitted by a previous owner to provide a good Earth rather than rely on the mounting stud to the bracket on the bottom of the picture...

It’s a shame that you couldn’t make the Goodwood Members Meeting in April - although it is not strictly open to non members - but they are having a race on the Saturday 18th April comprising entirely E-Types in the 45 minute two driver Protheroe Cup to celebrate the 65th Anniversary of the launch of...

As part of my winter service this year, I went all through the cooling system, replacing all hoses and getting the radiator re-cored by NAR. I spoke to Andy Hornby there and he could not have been more helpful. The job was skilfully done with a quick turnaround and very well packed. As my radiator w...

I am assuming by “air bleed screw” with the engine just on idle that you are referring to the “slow running volume screw” ? This a fairly large screw which is initially set at two full turns out from its seating. The idle circuit takes fuel mixture from the main Jet through a passage to emerge behin...

That’s exactly the reason I used M4 Stainless Steel screws, so I could get exactly the length I needed, long or cut down shorter, both to engage and to avoid seeing the ends of the screws through the glass covers. I did mention grinding a taper on the screw ends to help picking up the captive nut - ...

These nuts give rise to one of my stories I tell about a certain group of annoying “armchair experts” sometimes found in the classic car fraternity. I too had trouble with these original captive nuts as I like to keep my headlight bowls clean, so I need occasionally to remove the headlight rim and g...

Further to my previous post, (Throttle linkage assembly and bulkhead bush), on my friends 1966 RHD 4.2 FHC 2+2, we have now fitted a new bush into the bulkhead bracket which has removed any excess movement of the rear slave shaft in that bracket and firmed up the throttle linkage to operate more eff...

Job done and thanks for the responses, especially Sean above. Just thought I would give some “lessons learnt” to assist anybody undertaking this job. We had to remove the rearmost SU Carburettor, which greatly increased the access. Only thing is this is the really troublesome carb to remove as it is...

Just to close off this topic and answer the question, I have recently replaced my original Lucas 11AC Alternator with an uprated 55 amp Lucas 11AC from SNG Barratt. I could have gone for their Self Regulating 70 amp Lucas 11AC unit, but I wanted to retain the original 4TR Alternator Control unit whi...

Steve, There are some good photos of a 1962 smooth sided sump - and especially rear machined seal area on an original 3.8 sump in post #10 - in Rory’s recent post regarding the issues around getting an effective seal on that area at the rear of the sump. https://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t...

The rear seal area looks different to what I would expect. The 3.8 seal was a single smooth area - unlike the later different diameter 4.2 sump with has the seal set into a groove. The sump supplied appears in the photo to have an additional “step” machined in towards the inside of the sump. Either ...

Just my two pennyworth regarding the “collapsible lattice section should have some sort of cover over it as it does seem quite exposed and vulnerable”, is that to cover a safety device which presumably needs to expand rapidly outward in a crash situation would not be a good idea ? I can see the driv...

Hi Sean, I think we’re now getting somewhere in understanding the issue. We were coming to the problem from the other way around to avoid removing the mounting bracket retaining the broken end bush. Because of the limited access to the bulkhead bracket is a known problem, with the second mounting bo...