The 'E' Type Forum

The neatest way to do that would be to coat/dip the end of the needle in plumber's solder flux and then apply the solder immediately thereafter. The solder will "take" to where the flux is as the affinity to bond is high, but it'll not want to bind nearly as readily where there is no flux. I used a...

To round this out, I never heard back from Burlen, but I spent much time analyzing needle profiles and decided on the BDW needle. The BDW is basically perfect, except that it was still rich at idle. Off idle beyond about 1300 rpm the mixture was exactly where I'd want it. To compensate, I basically ...

Wolfgang, I have no trouble understanding you, and I certainly understand the needles need a different shape. I'm not confident in my abilities to get exactly the right amount of material removed, in the right place, 4 times for each needle. I'd feel much more comfortable buying needles that are clo...

i.Are the float levels set correctly and ? ii.Is the fuel pump giving excessive pressure ? I should also emphasise that under no circumstances should you use anything near full throttle with the alternative needles in use, as being markedly weaker under heavy load they may cause piston failure Sorr...

abowie wrote: ↑

Mon Jan 01, 2024 11:13 pm

I assume you've seen http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

I was using this one actually, I liked the chart better. https://www.classicminidiy.com/technical/needles

I have not asked Burlen yet. However, the kit was bought from Burlen a year ago and it appears they only provide one needle type.

From post 1, needles are BBG. As supplied by SU in the carb conversion kit. Yes, they are flush with the bottom of the piston.

I don't know what exactly "on the road" means but 12.5-13.5 is what you should have at full throttle conditions and off-idle. For steady cruise, level road situations you should have 14.3-15.5. By on the road I meant driving at a steady cruise. I agree with your target AFR's, that's what I'm trying...

Perhaps I expressed myself unclearly. With all the other SU's I have on other Jaguars, the correct needle gives correct fueling at both idle and on the road. With the needles that are in the car now I can't achieve that. I can tune it to either have a good on the road behaviour with a very rich idle...

I'm working on a 1972 V12 for a friend that has the 4 SU HIF44 carb conversion and I'm trying to tune it. I have a wideband AFR meter and if I set the carbs set to give a nice idle AFR, then it is very lean on the road at cruise speed. Conversely, if I set the AFR to give a good AFR on the road (13....

Note that the GM400 is a 3 speed, not 4. The 4L60 and 4L80 are 4 speeds. The 4L80E is what Jaguar used for the 6.0 V12 cars, but it has a different bolt pattern than a 5.3 HE block, which I believe is also different from a 5.3 pre HE block. The 4L80E is a big transmission, I doubt it would fit in an...

I have a 1966 S Type 3.8 with a 3.77 ratio. Originally I had the 0.63 overdrive and it was too tall. I have also put on EDIS and EFI on this engine, it feels like it has much more torque than a standard engine. I changed the ratio to 0.73 and was much happier. It produces relaxed cruising without lu...

I've been working on converting a 1966 S Type to EFI and I originally used MAP and the VE tables in megasquirt. On the 3.8 it was a nightmare to tune. On other engines I've done ( Chrysler 440) was easy, but the S Type fought me all the way. I've just switched to MAF using a Jaguar X300 AFM and it i...