The 'E' Type Forum

May be way to late to help but this link has a pictorial article of a rebuild.

http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=444.0

Its US based but units are the same: some other interesting articles there also. http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=421.0

Forgot to update everyone on proress. Starter is out and quite a job for such a simple task. Having problems getting new starter in but keep plugging away. Getting cold in Toronto now so need to speed things up to store car for winter.
Brrrr!

Have been having all sorts of problems accessing the starter and was about to remove triple carbs but Chris suggested removing the splash plates at the wheel arch and lower engine area. Has given approriate access and now need a longer extension to get to the top bolt. Progress is slow but getting t...

Used a smaller socket and a connector which was trimmed, then used a self ratcheting wrench. Really think the allen key bolt is a great idea as this will allow for easy removal "next time". I believe you suggested this on another thread so will look that up to find a supplier although if if I recall...

I am having a terrible time removing the old slave cylinder. The first bolt came out well, the hydraulic pipe came off, but getting to the second bolt of the body, there is no space to get in there. I cannot get a ratchet onto the bolt. I tried a 30deg off set wrench but no space again. Someone has ...

Looks like a reasonable job for a handy man. A new slave cylinder would seem preferable of the rubber replacement will only last a short time so on to purchase that now. I was too nervous to try the no clutch driving as I have not had the etype long enogh to learn the revs so did not want to mash th...

Embarrassing breakdown at Dundas Square in Toronto. Clutch pedal lost all pressure with car in gear. When stopped, depressing clutch pedal expelled fluid underneath. Lovely puddle continued to accumulate whilst waiting for a tow. Searched forum but no luck on this subject. Any suggested plan of atta...

The access panel in the RH g/box tunnel is great for the bottom bolt and was mentioned in one of this forums postings. Very helpful reminder though. Rebuilding the old starter will be for personal knowledge: it may also be needed for answering a posting here! BTW: Any suggestions for bits to purchas...

After some bits of reading on this and other forums, I went with an Odyssey 1200 series battery. Smaller, lighter and cranked over the engine no problem. If you buy one and have regular terminals, you will need a small kit to add posts: did not realise this until the purchase but at least the kit wa...

Just to let everyone know it was a combination battery issue (replaced with Odyssey 1200 series), some duff wiring connections replaced and solenoid issue. Car now starts with new battery and good connections but still have post-starting grinding meaning the solenoid is sticking. Have received a Bri...

My S2 has been inconsistent when starting. Lately I have had zero cranking followed by an unidentifiable light whirring sound when the key is returned to the OFF position. I recently replaced the starter relay, putting all connections back to exact position when old one removed. Battery (although ol...

http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4163 Had a similar problem with my S2 2+2: chrisvine put a great photo on this thread at the URL above for this site. Unfortunately mine are 2 arm non-removable spline shafts but it does give some options. I have pinned my splined end to the shaft whilst awai...

Lack of starting was a loose battery cable. Car was running yesterday! More importantly, some success with the wiper motor; the 2nd wiring diagram suggested by Chrisvine (many thanks) got me a single speed on the motor so I think we are on the right road. :D I did not have time last night to check t...

Past posts on batteries that I can find have been for UK (or European)replacements.

Which battery would be best replacement in Toronto Canada. USA manufacturers might be available here also.

I do not need orginal look, I prefer best performance.

Thanks
Paul

Chris I did try your first diagram last night and no luck, in fact after trying this with no result, I thought I should do my weekly engine run and got nothing to turn at all! Battery is fully charged so another issue to resolve. Anyway, back to the original question. By your second diagram, there i...

Clarification:
my connector has 5 wires at the switch.
The 3 wires I put in my previous post are exposed on the Lucas 15W motor

Motor is the Lucas 15W with 3 wires showing. I checked the wires at the switch and they are ULG, YLG, RLG, G Tucked away under some other wires, I found a B not connected anywhere so am presuming this is my missing Ground. Might explain the switch not working. I will try Chrisvines solution tonight ...

...and motor now working, just required better cleaning of magnet surfaces and away iut went. Will most probably have to do bushes later but happy camper right now.

Definitley Series 2 (1970) US delivered (but now in Canada)

How do I check if it's a DL3A?

Paxolin Disc? I'll show my ignorance and ask what that is?

Wires from switch to cable are RLG, ULG, G and YLG but I'll get under the bonnet tonight to check

back to you shortly
Paul

http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u537/PaulR012/wiperelecdiagram_zpscccba84d.jpg I received a new switch to replace the defunct switch, part # c33862. The new switch has 8 pins, the previous switch had 4 pins (possibly incorrect switch before?). I have 4 wires in my harness to the wiper motor con...