The 'E' Type Forum

Thanks guys for your help. Looks as though the diff could be from a range of years. Removal and comparison with existing will tell the tale. Cheers.

Hi Simon, and thanks. It was the page in the spare parts catalogue that first alerted me to the existence of variations! The replacement diff is not lsd, just a normal one, which I think would suggest an early type. If you could try posting an image of plate 27 of publication j38 that would be great...

I have acquired a used 3.07 rear diff to replace the current 3.54 unit in my US 1970 series 2 e type. There are no tags on the replacement unit, though I know it is a 3.07 from the stamping on the crownwheel - 4HA 016 25 43X14 STL J68 WRG. On the cover mounting flange appears the lettering F69 408 0...

Hi Steve. Many thanks - I will bear this in mind for when the next cork sinks. Probably try Ribera del Duero next time.

Thank you David for this, and for the link to the chemistry lesson - most instructive. I did replace the sunken floats about 3 years ago with standard wine corks, and one of these has just sunk - the other still seems fine, so perhaps it was from a better wine. I will keep an eye on the hoses, espec...

I have a similar problem with "fluid-logged" cork floats, and I was thinking of using synthetic corks like you. Now that time has passed, are the ones you used still OK, or have they melted into the fluid? The last thing we need is contaminated brake/clutch fluid! Cheers. Ross.

Will do, thanks. So far no joy. Wish me luck! Ross.

Hello again, David. Any chance you could discover the part numbers?

Thank you very much, David. I will enlighten my spares supplier. Cheers. Ross.

The air intake on my US Spec S2 has a chrome upper & lower moulding similar to the Series3. I have always assumed this to OE fitment, but a well-respected parts supplier in UK tells me that it is an aftermarket fitment. Can anyone please enlighten me - I was hoping to buy replacements. Thanks. Ross.

Thanks again for your input guys. Problem solved! On further inspection the mechanic discovered that he had wrongly assembled the gear lever to the gearbox housing . The compression spring should have been placed ahead of the boss, not behind it. Moving this to the correct position gave us the clear...

Hi Pete, and thanks for your reply. I have managed to relieve the tunnel cover, but the console is hard back against the rear bulkhead, so no possibility there. I will check the gearlever bushes, and try to ease the engine forward - as you say I only need a few millimeters. Cheers. Ross.

Thanks Angus. Yes, you are correct - the convoluted rubber gaiter is too thick. However, the root problem remains when there is no gaiter fitted. The gear lever contacts the housing in 2nd & 4 th gears, and I wonder why.

Having recently rebuilt the woking bits of my Series 2 OTS E type, I found that the car would not stay in 4th gear on the overrun. Investigation pointed to the rubber gaiter which appeared to be resticting the travel of the gear lever. However, on removing the leather and the rubber gaiters altogeth...

Thanks for this also Eric. I have succeeded in releasing both headrests following your advice - great help! Now to re-stuff them. Cheers. Ross.

Thank you Eric. I will get on to it! Ross.

The plastic retaining screw holding the interior mirror (CO 28475) to the glued-on mount has been stripped. It is, I believe, part no C 28475. Can anyone tell me where it might be available to buy or what thread it is so that I can find a replacement? Thanks. Ross. 1970 Series 2 OTS.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the headrests fron my 1970 Series 2 OTS? There appears to be some sort of sprung catch in the seat back but i cannot seem to work out how it releases the headrest tube. Any help gratefully received. Ross.

Thank you Peter for your response. I have, following Christopher's excellent method, successfully removed the dash roll and replaced two defective bulbs. Peter, these bulbs on my car were only removable from the rear - they are push fit into the housing which itself is a one-way push (from front) in...

Many thanks indeed Christopher for your prompt reply. I confess that I have always viewed removal of the dash as difficult, but you have reassured me and I shall give it a go! My version of bulbholder is of the integral type so no hope of removal from the front, and also, being a US Spec car, the ai...