The 'E' Type Forum

Exactly...the cheap repro bowtie caps use metal film resistors....hopeless..SNGB do repro caps and say theirs are carbon....so far so good!

The only observation to Andrews excellent list is regarding resistance caps. Original caps had a carbon slug (carbon rod) for an approx 5000 ohms resistance..I dismantled one to check. Cheap repro caps use a metal oxide resistor...again I dismantled one to check. Metal oxide resistors in HT circuits...

I stand corrected

I believe pretty much all the XK engines were fed from a banjo union near the dip stick. The original pipework was rigid with the banjos brazed on and after many years of vibration could suddenly let go....most of the suppliers can provide a braided hose replacement along with the copper washers etc...

Can't help with the history but the car looks fabulous!

series 1 Stu...hopefully sanity will prevail and a trusty soul will pop around and sort. Sometimes all it takes is a second pair of eyes...

The slave has to come off. Don't think it's possible on the car. There is all sorts of grime and grit there anyway and cleanliness is next to godliness and long term reliability when reassembling the slave I'm afraid!

Hmmm....looks more like the rubber seal in either the master or slave is breaking down...and if so clutch failure is not long behind...

If I were you I'd establish whether the rumble is indeed engine bottom end or torque converter related. With 40 psi to me it seems less likely to be crank related....BUT. The oil pressure senders are not reliable so maybe test the oil pressure with a hydraulic gauge first. If the car has stood maybe...

Firstly any car is worth what someone is happy to pay. However classic car prices for the most part, have fallen since covid...e types are probably 30% down on the peak. The car you are selling looks in excellent condition which is a positive but the following count against it. The rumble...May be e...

All I can add is buy one because you want one. I'm biased but they are fabulous cars to look at and lovely cars to drive. Mine puts a huge smile on my face every time I take it out...last time was this afternoon :bigrin: Spend the money in the knowledge that there are costs to running an E type...th...

As Malcolm said it's not that difficult to do. Really important to ensure that all butterflies are closed with no throttle before you start and all start moving at exactly the same time so 5 mins getting the linkages right can save a lot of frustration later. Set the jets and idle screws as per the ...

The e type vacuum advance is taken from the front carburettor (assuming you have triple SU set up) via a thin tube. I guess this could be blocked off and a tap taken of the vaccum hose that goes to the brake servo but I can't imagine it would make any difference. Try running the car with the vacuum ...

I speak as a chemist. Ethanol does not attack copper fuel lines or brass. It does not instantly rust steel fuel tanks. It does not immediately attack aluminium....Aluminium lids are used On (cheap) wine bottles that contain very damp ethanol and they do not instantly corrode! Aluminium has a molecul...

Don't get.too hung up on ethanol. Unless it is left standing for lengthy periods allowing moisture to absorb modern fuels do not cause untold damage. Yes ethanol does degrade old rubber fuel lines but R9 hoses are fine and you should be replacing old fuel lines anyway. The copper pipes are unaffecte...

Cutting out when hot may be a dodgy rotor arm...get a genuine red rotor arm from the distributor doctor...

It's AC...not polarity sensitive...

62 On May 8th...the car not me!