The 'E' Type Forum

Thanks for the attached, I suspect this was the previous owner showing the car.
Chris

I have thanks. Not sure whether going through XKE data will yield anything, but will give it a try.
Chris

Hello and a Happy New Year to you all, I acquired a S1.5 FHC a few years ago and i'd like to trace the history of the car if possible. The car is registered WFK 150F and is finished in Opalescent Silver Blue. I am the seventh owner of the car and the previous owner lived in the Ormskirk area. Lookin...

I had the same problem with my FHC a few years ago. The problem was down to a NOS seal which had hardened with time. Bought a new seal from Baines and the rear window went in no problem. Lesson I learnt was to only buy the seal when you are ready to install and get it from the actual manufacturer (C...

Tadek, Judging from your photos it is clear all was ok before the IRS was dismantled. It looks like the rear calipers and handbrake assemblies have been rebuilt, during which it is likely that the handbrake arm pivot block has moved relative to the handbrake assembly. This is what I found when I rea...

Hi Tadek Had a similar problem with my IRS rebuild a few years ago. I don’t think you have done anything wrong in assembling the parts. The arms will rotate to the right position to align with the handbrake mechanism - but it can require quite a bit of force to achieve this. Suggest you clamp a leng...

Can anyone advise on the correct pattern of battery for a S1 4.2 E Type and a recommended supplier (preferably on the NW)
Regards
Chris

I recall there being a discussion thread on suitable replacement speakers which will fit into a radio tower for an S1.5 interior. Can anyone point me at the thread or advise on a supplier who can provide suitable speakers.
Thanks, Chris

Hi Patrick,
Glad to hear you got everything sorted with the cant rails.
I agree that ageing does provide financial freedom........if only you could remember what you were going to do with it!
Chris

mcoily I have now managed to dig out the spare pair of S1 FHC can't rails. My memory must be failing me since there was no evidence of the clips I was so certain were used - old age biting early !😥 The lower trims which run under the rear quarter window also have a chrome trim and these are retained...

mcoily
I will try and find the spare can't rail I have stored somewhere and take a couple of photos to show the clips (these are quite straightforward to make if yours are missing / corroded). This may take a couple of days but I'll do my best.
Regards
Chris

The cant rail chromes should be a firm press fit onto the cant rails once they have been trimmed. They are retained by a couple of clips at either end of the reverse face of the cant rail. If yours have been damaged, it may be worth looking at using a length of bonnet chrome and gently bending to th...

Andew, given the screen is now fitted, I would first try laying the chrome's on top of the rubbers to see how well they match the route of the rubber around the rear hatch. When the chrome's are correct they should sit nicely on top of the rubber such that the retaining flaps on the rubber seal can ...

Andrew, I had a real fight to get my screen into the rear hatch rubber seal which I had bought a couple of years in advance df actual need. Despite my best efforts I could not get the screen in place? I passed the job over to a local windscreen fitter who also gave up! He recommended a new seal from...

Andrew, The chrome stops which the fold up parcel shelf abutts to (and the slide latches interface with) were held in place with pop rivets on my 65 and 66 FHC. These went from the inside out and clenched the bracket, wheel arch trim and wheel arch together. As for the screws holding the chrome capp...

To remove doors (which are confirmed as fitting properly) I use the following method: 1. Pull back the hardura trim from the A pillar. 2. Mark out the perimeter of the hinge base on the face of the B pillar using short lengths of masking tape to act as a witness marker. Take time to position the mas...

If the RH ans LH lower arms are fitted the wrong sides not only will you find that the arm fouls the frames, but also the torsion bars will be impossible to remove to adjust the ride height. This is due to the spine in the arm being cut at 0.5 deg (rather than perpendicular to the lower arm), so wit...

Andrew
Try loosening the upper and lower pairs of screws on the balance mechanism which bolts to the bonnet inner panels. Judging from the photo, the screws are at the upper end of the slots which will have the effect of preventing the bonnet closing.

I used Dana Techologies (OEM) for the LSD.
When I worked out the cost of new bearings, seals, crown wheel and pinion (I was changing from US to UK spec), I figured the all in price which Dana quoted was a good deal.

Not sure from your photo's whether you have done this, but in my experience the bumpers/over-riders and return quarters need to be built up and fitted before the motif bar can be positioned. The return quarters set the depth of the motif bar in the mouth. Also, the rubber mountings which screw in th...