The 'E' Type Forum

Al Wrote: When I removed the original unit it had 3 x 0.037 (3mm) shims on each side for preload and alignment so first off you'd think just remove 2 shims to compensate! Hello Al, Your car being an S1, the differential assembly should be a Type 1 where the Backlash and Bearing pre-load is set via s...

Hello Geoff,
They should be, and generally are, a tight fit, requiring a dowel puller for removal when the face of the flywheel is being remachined.

Regards,

Bill

Kev Wrote: I'll check the rings again when I get a mo in the garage, pretty certain any blemishes are on the underside of the ring not the bearing facing side so all should be fine. Hello Kev, The finish on the front and back face surfaces of the Seal Track, which is what it's called, is irrelevant,...

Hello Al, For the amount of work required in refurbishing your current diff, plus the work involved getting at the diff for a second time after you get to the point of the car able to be driven, I would be replacing the gear set. If you get another complete diff, and it happens to be a Type 3 with t...

Al Wrote: the spring I mentioned is the one around the top of the inner output bearing, photo attached. Hello Al, That spring is not a part of a Taper Roller Bearing and is most likely as suggested by Steve. When you get to the point of setting the pre-load of the diff centre bearings and gear backl...

Hello Tim,
Actually, you're correct. A 2.88 ratio was used with the 2+2, which is what Al has. However, the fact that pre-load of the diff centre bearings is made via shims under the bearings, and taper roller bearing used for the output shafts, makes it a later model than a Type 3.

Regards,
Bill

Steve Wrote: possibly you whole diff is a replacement Hello Steve, I read through Al's post again, and I had missed that the diff ratio is 2.88 to 1, and that Al Wrote: One other point is that my diff preload looks as though it's done by shims between diff case and the inside face of the diff bearin...

Al Wrote: it looks as though I have a type 2 diff or could it be type 3! It's a Type 2, definitely not a Type 3 Al Wrote: Having split the output coupling today it's a single unit. Interesting thing is it also uses a collapsible spacer to get it's preload on the taper bearings for the output shaft. ...

Al Wrote: I've started the strip down and I've attached a shot of the output drive. From previous posts, it would appear to be a type jag 1 diff, although Correct me please. Hello Al, It's hard to tell from the picture of your output shaft assembly, if you have a Type 1, or Type 2 differential. They...

Hello Geoff, The Type 3 differential used a double row, angular contact ball bearing race, with split, two piece inner race. When assembled and held together by hand, there is a slight gap between the inner faces of the inner race halves. When pushed together via the securing nut, the two halves are...

Geoff Wrote: The bearings are difficult to find Hello Geoff, Alun's car is an S1, therefore, it will probably be a Type 1 diff, and therefore, using opposing, tapered roller bearing on the output shafts. All of the bearings for that model diff are readily available from any reasonable bearing supply...

Steve Wrote: Rear anti roll bar I think....Steve Hello Steve, No cigar I'm afraid. That bolt with the thin head, is the bolt that secures the small rubber bush end of the Radius Arm to the Wishbone of a Series 1 car. Series 2 and 3 cars have a more conventional bolt, where the thread points towards ...

Geoff Wrote:

Wednesday 6th May 2026

Hello Geoff,
Just goes to show how much notice they take of a detailed critique. It's one thing to be selling rubbish parts in ignorance, but entirely different when alerted to the fact.

Regards,
Bill

Geoff Wrote: “The ball joints are genuine Lemforder/correct to part number and these pass the QC check on arrival with the correct mating part. This is the only issue of this we have had” Hello Geoff, It depends on when you received that statement, as to whether the "This is the only issue of this w...

Hello Geoff,
The Red banded model is no longer made, with you only chance of getting that type, is to stumble onto someone with NOS. The most sure way of getting a part that fits correctly, is with my fix.

Regards,
Bill

Steve Wrote: Just for info iv just flagged this up to Julian Barrett at SNGB.....Steve Hello Steve, Is Julian even still involved since the sale of SNGB? There is a fellow by the name of Matt Wells whom I believe to be the CEO, or operations manager. I've discussed the issue of the sealed ball joint...

Geoff Wrote: Not sure if it’s the right one or available No they are not. I saw an email from Lemforder to a member of JL, stating that the Red banded model is no longer made, and that the alternative, which has a smaller diameter spigot diameter is a suitable repair replacement. Not in my opinion a...

Steve Wrote : Hi Geoff....lots of things are sold as "upgrades".....are they actually better?.....as always beware aftermarket parts as they probably don't fit as per originals....Steve Hello Steve, Quite a few parts are stated as being upgrades, and in fact, a more accurate description would be a d...

Steve Wrote: I doubt very much its just a rent increase. Hello Steve, If the UK is anything like the state of Victoria, Australia, then I can well imagine that could be the case. Land tax has been introduced even on primary residences, if your're conducting a business from home, even if its eBay sal...

Hello Kev, To build the damaged area up, would then require machining, and that would require a set up that would have the two opposing bores concentric within a small tolerance. For two off parts, that will be an expensive exercise. Find a set of good secondhand parts would be the most cost effecti...