The 'E' Type Forum

Rory Wrote: I’m sure Philippe would have followed this advice had he not been a little too far advanced in his assembly, frustrated by delivery issues, and he was actually confronted with only one valve that fell outside the standard range. True enough if the head was installed on the engine block, ...

Rory Wrote: In future, grind the end of the valve stems and get yourself into the available range of shims, as you will have to do this all over again once the gaps start to close up. Yes, and its's highly likely that his valves as they are now from seat to stem end (effective length), are not the s...

Geoff Wrote: I’d say the fit is not as snug as a normal bolt through a fitting, but not flapping loose. Hello Geoff, The bolts are a reasonable fit in the holes in the chassis rails, through which they pass, and the reaction plate is positively located with the engine frames, via the spigot on the t...

Rory Wrote: but I wouldn’t think twice about grinding 1mm off if it took me into an easier shim range. Hello Rory, There is a corresponding dimension between the bottom of the pocket in valve spring retainer and the end of the valve. Accordingly, if there are only few valves concerned, I would machi...

Stuart Wrote: Also, there seems to be a misconception that shims are case hardened. They are actually through hardened, so don't worry about spoiling the temper. Hello Stuart, How have you determined that the original, or after market shims are through hardened? For quite awhile, I've been consideri...

Hello Al, I make them, and I have the advantage of having a CNC lathe on hand to make a specific size spacer when required. With regards to the adjustment via solid spacers, you have two options: 1. As in my case, I have a master spacer that is too long by circa 0.25mm that will assure measurable en...

Al Wrote: When I removed the original unit it had 3 x 0.037 (3mm) shims on each side for preload and alignment so first off you'd think just remove 2 shims to compensate! Hello Al, Your car being an S1, the differential assembly should be a Type 1 where the Backlash and Bearing pre-load is set via s...

Hello Geoff,
They should be, and generally are, a tight fit, requiring a dowel puller for removal when the face of the flywheel is being remachined.

Regards,

Bill

Kev Wrote: I'll check the rings again when I get a mo in the garage, pretty certain any blemishes are on the underside of the ring not the bearing facing side so all should be fine. Hello Kev, The finish on the front and back face surfaces of the Seal Track, which is what it's called, is irrelevant,...

Hello Al, For the amount of work required in refurbishing your current diff, plus the work involved getting at the diff for a second time after you get to the point of the car able to be driven, I would be replacing the gear set. If you get another complete diff, and it happens to be a Type 3 with t...

Al Wrote: the spring I mentioned is the one around the top of the inner output bearing, photo attached. Hello Al, That spring is not a part of a Taper Roller Bearing and is most likely as suggested by Steve. When you get to the point of setting the pre-load of the diff centre bearings and gear backl...

Hello Tim,
Actually, you're correct. A 2.88 ratio was used with the 2+2, which is what Al has. However, the fact that pre-load of the diff centre bearings is made via shims under the bearings, and taper roller bearing used for the output shafts, makes it a later model than a Type 3.

Regards,
Bill

Steve Wrote: possibly you whole diff is a replacement Hello Steve, I read through Al's post again, and I had missed that the diff ratio is 2.88 to 1, and that Al Wrote: One other point is that my diff preload looks as though it's done by shims between diff case and the inside face of the diff bearin...

Al Wrote: it looks as though I have a type 2 diff or could it be type 3! It's a Type 2, definitely not a Type 3 Al Wrote: Having split the output coupling today it's a single unit. Interesting thing is it also uses a collapsible spacer to get it's preload on the taper bearings for the output shaft. ...

Al Wrote: I've started the strip down and I've attached a shot of the output drive. From previous posts, it would appear to be a type jag 1 diff, although Correct me please. Hello Al, It's hard to tell from the picture of your output shaft assembly, if you have a Type 1, or Type 2 differential. They...

Hello Geoff, The Type 3 differential used a double row, angular contact ball bearing race, with split, two piece inner race. When assembled and held together by hand, there is a slight gap between the inner faces of the inner race halves. When pushed together via the securing nut, the two halves are...

Geoff Wrote: The bearings are difficult to find Hello Geoff, Alun's car is an S1, therefore, it will probably be a Type 1 diff, and therefore, using opposing, tapered roller bearing on the output shafts. All of the bearings for that model diff are readily available from any reasonable bearing supply...

Steve Wrote: Rear anti roll bar I think....Steve Hello Steve, No cigar I'm afraid. That bolt with the thin head, is the bolt that secures the small rubber bush end of the Radius Arm to the Wishbone of a Series 1 car. Series 2 and 3 cars have a more conventional bolt, where the thread points towards ...

Geoff Wrote:

Wednesday 6th May 2026

Hello Geoff,
Just goes to show how much notice they take of a detailed critique. It's one thing to be selling rubbish parts in ignorance, but entirely different when alerted to the fact.

Regards,
Bill

Geoff Wrote: “The ball joints are genuine Lemforder/correct to part number and these pass the QC check on arrival with the correct mating part. This is the only issue of this we have had” Hello Geoff, It depends on when you received that statement, as to whether the "This is the only issue of this w...