The 'E' Type Forum

Thanks for all your help folks. Appreciated. I'll stick it on charge whilst its raining out for 24 hrs and see what that gives.

Hi all - just been on a 10 mile run. before heading off I have 12.3v at the battery and on return its recording 13v.
I have the standard manifolds, but no sheile for the alternator - could that be it?

Hi Christopher - I asked a man with a proper voltmeter to check it too and he agreed with my cheapo Tesco unit's reading.. The battery definately fizzes and weeps through the breathers on the top. i dont have a shield on the manifold. its didnt have one when i bought the car, not that that means any...

Hi - an update.
Have now tried 3 4TRs for 3 different sources and there's no difference between them - all over charge the battery to 15-16v.
Could it be the battery? Its the same spec as original. Maybe its duff?
I do hate these annoying little ongoing problems.. !

Thanks for the replies. I now have 2 regulators of dubious quality by the sound of it. Sadly there appears to be no adjuster on either unit. Im tempted to dismantle the older one, which is at least a proper Lucas one and see if theres somethign inside as the back has nothing but a blind rivet to spo...

Hi - ive recently completed the rebuild of my '65 4.2 FHC. Uk spec and I seem to gotten a cooking battery. Ive replaced the 4TR regulator with a new Barratt one as the output was running at nearly 16V! The problem is the new one gives more or less the same reading. Do I have 2 duff regulators? im us...

Me again.. so.. Straightened frames up. bit twisted too. Here's the rub.. when i reassembled the fit seemed worse! after much head scratching i have located the problem. Bloody repro parts again. [img] the rear edge of the glass isnt straight. There's an almost imperceptible bump near the lift chann...

Thanks for confirming Barrie. I have some nice oak staircase parts that will do the job nicely.
Problem solved. Next problem!

Hi there, Coming at this a few years late I know, but the Trail here is relevant to my S1 FHC problem - I think. Problem - after rechroming frame the glass runs fine when the door is open but sticks horribly when closed. Solutions tried: a) wind window down when stationery :) b) readjusted everythin...

I have fixed this, so close off the subject... many thanks to Steve Hunt who advised that I should definitely have 6 wires from the motor. God knows it worked before, but I'm not wasting time thinking about it. solution: soldered a blue to the same location as the green inside the motor and then wir...

Still persevering with this!
Has anyone got a photo of the wiper switch wiring on a 65 car they could post? preferably someone who also has 5 wires on their wiper motor!
thanks
Phil

Hi, No joy I'm afraid. If the diagram is correct then I cant work out the correct combination of connections to the switch. I'm not sure I have green connection to fuse 6. I do have a white/green wire that doesnt seem to go anywhere though. If a new motor werent so expensive I'd buy one to see if it...

Thanks again.
I'm going to go and play now and will report back on the ? terminals. narrowing the guesswork to 2 is a major leap forward!
Phil

Hi chris,
Thanks for the speedy reply.
Its a square bodied Lucas DL3, DL3G85 is stamped on it, if that helps.
Car is 1965 S1 4.2 FHC.
Its the blue wire I am missing at the motor end.
Phil

Apologies for writing on this again, but I have trawled the site and cant find what I need.. I have replaced the loom complete and have come to wire the wiper switch / motor. The switch and motor were in the car before and everything worked, unfortunately I did not remove the old loom so have no pic...