The 'E' Type Forum

That sump is for a J60 military engine, the rear half of it is slightly angled to allow the drain point to work. If you weld up the current drain hole and weld in a threaded boss at the rear to mimic an original 3.8 sump it won’t drain all the engine oil. The E type baffle will need modifying as it ...

Over the phone

I have an Admiral multi quote policy and they wouldn’t quote me to add a 1962 E Type FHC to the policy as their data base doesn’t recognise the car!

I always support the back axle when up on the lift….

Just gone through all this, tried two sets of plastic bushes over 3 years, they would either bind or have excessive play and both sets squeaked. Gave up in the end and had phosphor bronze bushes made and fitted. No issues since Point to note when I removed and stripped the column I found the the two...

Has anyone fitted the above or has a picture of one fitted. If so is it possible to post it

Tia

Just completed my engine build using the stretch seal, will give an update as to its performance in due course

I had the thrust washer shoulder turned down and the end float is now 0.0045 so back to specification.

Marek, I read the crank end float thread, and admired the ingenuity of the chap to devise the solution, however, for the distributor drive shaft thrust washer I think both surfaces can be subject to wear, unlike the crank washers. I have the shaft in with an aircraft engineering company who believe ...

I would be comfortable fitting a thicker thrust washer, but adding a 3 or 4 thou shim to it, less so. The drive shaft is in engineering currently being machined to length to get back into tolerance range. Thanks for the tip, I might need shims for my front wheel bearing spacer at a later date and wi...

New washer arrived from SNG and it measured 0.119, so only 0.001 thicker than the 60 year old original.

My next course of action is to have 0.004 taken off the distributor drive shaft which should bring it back into spec range.

I will let you know how it goes

Late to the party I know but…it doesn’t hold the bush. It provides access to drill the block the other side of the bush to make an oilway for MOG pressure to enter the drive shaft and lubricate it. The hole is tapped so you can block it off with a copper washer otherwise oil pressure will jet out.

I’m currently rebuilding an early 3.8 and find that the end float on the distributor drive shaft is 9.5 thou. It has a new bush and helical gear. Has anyone come across this problem and if so how did you cure it? Tia Edited to add I have checked other thrust washers and whilst there is only one part...

Now being used in earnest

I’ve had 24 e types in my life and early on they would be daily drivers. I’ve had every variant, OTS, FHC, 2+2 3.8, 4.2 and 5.3. Also aluminium racers. If I were after a practical E Type ( as much as an E Type could be practical) I would choose a S2 2+2 manual preferably with a factory electric sunr...

Thought they were all 2+2 and this car has a S2 2+2 bulkhead and 6 cyl engine frames

I was intrigued how they joined a S3 tub to a set of 6 cyl engine frames as the pictures show the tub to be S3, BUT, the bulkhead is a S2 2+2. Curiouser and curiouser. Perhaps a S2 2+2 converted with S3 OTS panels. The back end is S3 as it has the deeper boot and well for the fuel tank sump. A real ...

Currently on e bay is a purported 1968 FHC rhd converted to ots with a S3 back end, flares removed with a S2 bonnet and a removable hardtop. Currently available from Barbados.
E Bay Item number.. 276265539808.

The longer you look the more is wrong. The data sheet doesn’t make much sense

I’m but standing on the shoulders of giants. Credit must go to the originator.

Made an engine cradle adapter. It’s not a new idea but changed slightly in that I’ve used 4 small plates to bolt the engine cradle bracket as I didn’t have any 60 mm thick walled pipe. https://i.postimg.cc/6pYkSb0j/IMG-1313.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/q7F9BtW2/IMG-1314.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/4N1q72rf...