The 'E' Type Forum

If they are series 3 calipers ( and vented discs) then it would be interesting to know which stub axle carriers are in place as we know the bolt hole spacing for the caliper fixings differs twixt series 1 and later cars.

Tim

My car is a California import. I went to see the car before buying although photos would suffice I suppose. I made absolutely sure that the chassis, engine and plate numbers all matched. ( checked the gearbox number later at home) Mine has the J68 prefix to the chassis number which is shown on the t...

Don’t just walk away - Run !!

I know that this is an old thread but with the current (no pun intended) comments on high torque starters I thought that I would update this. I have a Fosseway starter and being aware of the issue I phoned Simon. Hi says that the latest starters from Fosseway have been modified so that no spacer pla...

Those mounts look knackered !

As mentioned check carefully on carb to bonnet clearance ( although with products from Rob Beere you should be ok )

Does anyone have a source for the plastic moulded panels fitted to the recess in series 1.5 doors.
These differ significantly from series 2 items which won’t fit.

I’ve tried all the usual who seem to offer only series 2

Thanks
Tim

Don’t be tempted as I was to use anyone who claims to have fitted e type hoods. I purchased a hood from Aldridge (perfect) and used a local “experienced trimmer” to fit. Total cost about £1k. Seems cheap you think. Unless you factor in that the job is appalling. I’ve improved it over time but it wil...

Simple really.
Using a small drift tap it out from the top. ( once you have removed the old ball joint )
Access from inside the hub carrier

Do you have the spacing plate sometimes fitted under the right side engine mount?
This is present to avoid the throttle linkage catching on the engine frame

Part number c18242


Tim

My thoughts are that removing the tach is the best way. The clock needs to be slotted into position. Tachometer can be removed either from the top by taking off the dash top or by removing the lower cover panel . This is a bit more fiddly getting to the tachometer fixings but less work. I would take...

Hi,
Marek will know better on series 3 but I don’t like the look of that crease just by the bonnet hinge shown in the last picture.

What’s the rest of the car like .

I’d be inclined to leave and look at others

Similar damage on both sides. I would be looking very carefully. How are the bulkhead fixings ?

Couple of what appears to be real bargains on eBay at the moment.
Fosseway callipers and discs.


No affiliation

Tim

I don’t believe that any torque figure has been published for these. My head was rebuilt by CMES who supplied a copy of the torque setting and tightening sequence and method. No mention of the figures for these smaller nuts.

Tim

I think that SNG now sell them with the hose attached to prevent splitting.Maybe also they fit the spigot inside the reservoir.

I’ve also heard that Fosseway can supply an aluminium unit but it’s not on their website

So on a pleasant day it was time to do something I’ve had on my mind for a while. I’ve been conscious that I should get some cavity wax in place. Since I don’t trust many people I decided to DIY. I’ve got a small compressor and first thoughts were to use cans and the appropriate gun. However on insp...

Maybe the Chris Rooke book which has a section on trimming.

Anyone used Peter Rees wheels?
http://classicwirewheels.blogspot.com/


Tim

Difficult to tell, you need to check the length.

In any event the blades should not be that matt black colour and the rubber looks perished and worn

I used a composite head gasket supplied by the people who rebuilt my head. Well respected in the etype forum They recommended VHT copper gasket spray with very specific torqureand re torque process. I’ve spoken to others who also recommend this product and process. Thinking again - I would speak to...