The 'E' Type Forum

Thanks for the ideas, guys, both useful. I'll get the car up in the air again this weekend and have a look around. Getting the levers to pull further may be the trick, as I know the handbrake worked when I had the cage on the floor -- I used it when tightening up the axle-to-brake-disc bolts. That s...

To wrap this up... Followed everyone's advice, grabbed a couple of friends to help, and it's all back in. We levered and pushed and pulled and hammered, and bit-by-bit, it moved into place. In hindsight, like so many projects, it was a scarier prospect in my mind than it was in reality. And as usual...

Thanks again to everyone. My cage has slots in the front and back positions, so I'll take the advice and leave everything a bit loose until the cage is back in place, then snug it all up. Have a few more projects to do before reinstallation - which should be next week - and I'll report back when it'...

Got it, thanks gents! I’ll continue as planned, until stumped again...

Jeremy.

Hello all, quick question... I have my diff cage out to do rear calipers, handbrake, pinion seal, diff cover gasket and misc bushings. I intended to replace the four rubber blocks that hold the diff cage to the body, even though they appear in good condition— no tears or visible deterioration — whil...

Hi all, wanted to finally close the book on this one for future forum sleuths... I sent the tach and the generator off to Nisonger here in the US. Got both units back today, (6 weeks) put it all back together and it works perfectly! The tach came back fully rebuilt and cleaned, and looks brand new. ...

Spoke with the people at Nisonger here in the US, and from my description, they suggest it's a tach issue too. I removed the gauge from the dash last night and will be sending it off to them today. They say a 2-3 week turnaround, so I'll update this thread when it returns (and hopefully works!). Wil...

Sorry for the delay -- update: - with a volt meter set to AC volts, when I approach the engine compartment, I'm showing voltage on the meter. It's like there's voltage in the air. Yeah, that's weird, I know... - anyway, with the meter on the two prongs on the generator, I get voltage, although it's ...

Looking for a little troubleshooting advice, before the dive-in... Went for a drive to a friend's new year's party yesterday, and on the way home, the tach died. I was doing about 70 mph on the freeway -- call it 3100 or so rpm -- when traffic slowed. I dropped to about 40 mph, accelerated around th...

Brilliant, thanks Mark! PM sent...

Any chance that someone has one toggle they'd be interested in selling/getting rid of? I need the one for the hazard light switch in my late S1, but the usuals only sell them in packs of 6 as best as I can see.

Many thanks,

Hello all. Had a great drive yesterday -- beautiful weather here in Southern California, so went for a 70+ mile drive, the furthest i've driven the car since purchase. All was well in a combination of high-speed (70+ mph freeway) and stop-and-go traffic, with a rock-solid temp in traffic and none of...

Well, to wrap up the saga, we have a resolution! While I confess I still don't entirely know what my problem was, she's running...! Here's what I did: - pulled the fuel tank and sent it off to be hot-tank boiled out. It had gritty, flaky rust inside before, and came back nearly spotless - sump had a...

Steve: Yeah, that might have been a useful piece of info, no? Sorry everyone! I have driven the car approximately 100 miles in the past two weeks since buying it back in January and fiddling and fettling this, that and the other. I've rebuilt the carbs, gone through all the brakes, replaced all hose...

Quick update that I posted on J-L too, for those of you who may not check over there: Thanks for all the input. - yes, tried with the fuel cap off, no difference - if I pull the line off that runs to the carbs, I can pump fuel straight into a fuel jug, so there's plenty of power in the pump - I do n...

One more development: when I remove the fuel bowl, as I loosen the clamp below it, I hear a hiss, as if the whole system is pressurized and thus there's an air bubble somewhere that's preventing the fuel from filling the bowl and thus getting to the carbs.

Jeremy.

Interesting development... it now seems that fuel only gets to the engine if a line is cracked or the filter bowl is loosened. Bear with me. I *knew* from loosening a fuel line at the carb, and because all the carb bowls have fuel in them, that the pump was working fine. Or was it...? It was suggest...

Thanks all. Here's where I am: - followed Andrew's check-list, and, strangely, it all checks out - I was using the champion plug ends, but swapped to a push-on wire now - making gross adjustments to the timing by turning the dizzy makes little difference it seems - pulled the caps to the carb bowls ...

Thanks Ralph. Just went and checked, dizzy is rock-solid and tight, hasn't moved at all. Thought about the rotor, so put the old one back in as a tester, no change at all...

Jeremy.

Not sure I follow what you're saying, Steve. The "live feed"? When I drop the center panel down, all wires on the switch appear to be tight and connected properly. Can you elaborate on what I should be looking for?

Thanks for the idea.

Jeremy.