The 'E' Type Forum

Tony. A photo would be helpful but if the glass has a plastic edging strip around it where it fits in the case you should be able to push the glass in a bit and remove the strip and then remove the glass. This gives you access to the fixing between case and arm. It does depend on the design and we d...

Stuart

That is very interesting. I had always understood that the shims were case hardened and thus not really adjustable but learning that they are through hardened is good news for future reference.

Mike

The world has become a warmer place since 1961 and traffic density has increased!

Mike

Steve M

That looks like it might be a very early Kenlowe fan before they started using pancake motors.

I would not bother with the single blade ‘Flymo’ fan, I would save up for the Cool Cat multi blade version.

Mike

Hi Steve

It would be helpful to have a photo of the fan / motor installation. Someone may recognise the parts.

It certainly will do no harm having a relay controlling the motor.

And as the other Steve has said look at similar topics.

Mike

OK. Understand.

Don’t understand the relevance of showing the water temperature sensor in photo 4?

Are you calling this the oil pressure sender?

Good to hear that you have solved the problem.

Some random thoughts: Are the new fans the same as the old ones? Is the new relay the same as the old one? Is the new otter switch the same as the old one? You say you have wired these direct to the battery, is that new wire getting trapped when the bonnet is closed? There is a closer connection poi...

You obviously have a wiring problem. Sounds like your new wiring is getting trapped when you close the bonnet.

Carefully check all your joints and make sure there are no loose strands.

You say the fuse blows when the catch engages, presumably the bonnet catch?

I think it is fair to say that red crimp tags were not fitted by Jaguar when they originally built the car. It has been added necently(ish).

The gap on my car is around 1/4 inch and 3/8 at curve of top front corner.

Andy

Definitely remove pedal box otherwise you are on your back with crud falling in your face trying to remove split pins.

Simon

If you have the captive nuts and they are full of rust or paint all you need is a tap to clean them out.

What we need is someone to tell us the thread. You actually have the screws so if you have the technology you could identify the thread.

How about counterboring the hole to allow the sensor to sit a little deeper? Maybe easier than fitting an insert.

Certainly not an E is it. Dashboard all wrong 2 more cylinders than normal. Rear suspension all wrong. As said before. What is the point?

Gerry

I can strongly recommend the wiring diagrams book produced by Coventry Auto Components if you are going to DIY.

https://coventryautocomponents.co.uk/st ... es-2-etype

You will wonder how you managed without it!

Dave. I agree with Steve, remove rev counter and dash top and access is very good.

Tim

Another couple of thoughts. As you are grovelling about under the dash replace the instrument voltage regulator with a solid state version.

I have a recollection that I had to extend some leads at the RH end of the dash cable, maybe something to do with the ignition switch?

Hi Tim

If you have not done so already renew the fuse boxes. Buy yourself a copy of the Coventry whatever wiring diagrams. Get a set of replacement grommets and stock up on patience!!

Mike