The 'E' Type Forum

The original complaint is rattling, not flexing. Wanting a car to be more rigid is just going to magnify the rattling. Vibration should be taken out by all of the rubber parts plus front and rear suspension and dampers. Do the doors add any stiffness to the tub? No. Only cars driven by the Dukes of ...

No, I merely outlined a procedure explaining how to lubricate the bearings without having to crank the engine, plus a method that demonstrates that the garden sprayer produces in excess of 2-3psi.

kind regards
Marek

If you are worried about lubrication during extended cranking when doing a compression test, get a garden sprayer and decant some of your oil into the sprayer. With the nozzle removed, these sprayers will have the same thread as the oil pressure sender and you can thus easily pump oil into the galle...

You are indeed a bit paranoid. You only have a problem if the temperature keeps rising after the fans have already come on.

kind regards
Marek

I don't think it'd take a minute or longer to get oil pressure. The sender is a bimetallic type and so is the gauge. That means they will respond very slowly when initially fed a signal. Prolonged cranking without a start will also deplete the battery somewhat and so the gauge will not have sufficie...

If your car is "rattling over poor surfaces" I think the stiffness of the body tub would be among the last culprits. I'd have thought the prime culprit would be old torsion bars which long since weakened so have now been wound up tighter to maintain ride height. That's like having strong springs wi...

What exactly is "storage fuel"? When you say they are "leaking from the nuts underneath", are you referring to the gaskets between the carburettor body and the float bowl or are you referring to the round plug on the underside of the float bowl? The former has a waxy paper gasket and the latter has ...

Airborne62 wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 16, 2026 12:54 am

You're making it too difficult.

Agreed.

It's essentially just a parallelogram with two fixed length vertical sides. The uprights are parallel save for camber angle. Cutting and welding loads of stuff between those fixed points is harder than putting a spacer in.

kind regards
Marek

This is simple geometry, but measuring these angles and lengths with any great accuracy isn't. Make a triangle using the 116 and 122.2 sides, with a third side which will be a horizontal. You're going to need to know the angle to the horizontal of the 116 long side for that. This gives you the addit...

I stuck a Hall effect sensor into the speedo unit itself, as this was an easy way to get the required digital speed pulses into the MS3 unit without getting my hands dirty or crawling under the car. You can see a picture of it at https://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17086&p=142437&hilit=hal...

It sounds like an issue inside the tacho to me, but whether that is mechanical or electrical isn't clear.
kind regards
Marek

LEDs are directional. At best, the wiring will all have to be backwards. That means that if the sidelights and main beam share a common earth, then it won't remotely be compatible.

kind regards
Marek

Just to be clear, the fuel sender in the tank has two totally separate circuits:- one for fuel light and one for the gauge. Their only thing in common is that they share an earth wire. It's quite possible for one to be working and the other not.

kind regards
Marek

To check whether the fuel light is functioning properly, swap the bulbs over between the holders feeding the orange fuel light and the working red ignition light. If the ignition light no longer lights then swap the bulbs back and fit a new bulb into the fuel low position. If the ignition bulb light...

It sounds like you may not agree, but I see this "flaw" as an advantage with not downside. It helps to motivate one to fix something that could be serious. My suggestion lets you still see the problem, only it won't lead to an immediate and catastrophic leak as well. With reservoirs at the same hei...

The problem you have is that the seal on the shuttle in the brake booster is not sealing any more. This is either because the bore of the brake booster s scored and/or because the seal between the two circuits has failed. Every time you use the brakes, a small amount of fluid transfers from the mast...

Move the booster reservoir up to the same height level as the master reservoir. That'll stop you losing all of your fluid. Instead, you'll slowly transfer from one to the other as a small amount fluid gets past the seal on the booster shuttle every time you use the brakes. It's a glaring oversight o...

Do you have a non-working wiper motor or do simply not have a motor? The reason I ask is that the s3 cooling fans look to be the same, so these might be able to be made up into a working wiper motor, depending on the exact details. Working cooling fan motors will be easier to find as many people "up...

The steering column needs a small yoke machined to bridge the slightly different diameters of the two. It was the etype club magazine, a small colour booklet iirc. I think Rod gave me a pdf copy of the articles, but I won't find it without looking on an old computer. Maybe I only had A4 colour print...

That service bulletin is just telling you when the resistor changed from one mounted using stand-offs into free air versus one mounted on a ceramic base instead. This already appears on the post 14 Parts Manual diagram above the clocks as it is well before s3 production. The bulletin isn't saying an...