The 'E' Type Forum

AussieEtype, you may be correct, I am going by his statement he has an S2. I am not familiar with the S3 top.
Tom

Tunstall, looking at your first photo, the frame part that seems to be jabbing the back of the seat, I do not understand. You say you have an S2. This is that frame section on my S2, note how it is two pieces that allow it to fold down behind the seat and not jab. I am not familiar with your type of...

Since you are having problems bleeding the clutch normally, you may wish to try bottom up. Get either a small pump style oil can or a syringe. Connect the pump to the bottom bleeder with a rubber hose and open the bleeder. Pump the brake fluid up to the reservoir. This will push all the air up and o...

....some think the red lamp is an ignition warning lamp but it was used in pre 3AW...Steve. The red lamp is an ignition warning lamp. It warns when the ignition is left on with the engine not running. It warns with the oil pressure switch by turning on the red lamp when there is no oil pressure sin...

Steve, the starter solenoid consists of two coils, a pull in coil and a hold in coil. The pull in coil is "grounded" through the starter motor, the path including the motor armature and brushes. The hold in coil is grounded directly to ground. When the starter solenoid is first engaged, both coils a...

Remember, before you try to take the solenoid apart, an “intermittent solenoid” is often worn or sticking starter motor brushes.
Tom

It works by generating a voltage of 1V AC per 100 RPM. You can also test the gauge by connecting it to an AC power supply. Home alarm systems use 15V AC plug packs. One of these should produce 1500RPM. As I read this, yes the tach generator produces 1 VAC per 100 rpms. And yes, one can connect the ...

Paul, there seem to be many ways to bleed the brakes. Different people use different methods with success. I have bleed my E types brakes both from full and dry, and have not had too many issues. That being said: 1. I do not pressure bleed. But I believe if you do, it would not matter whether you st...

Pierre, if you look carefully at your photo and then David's, note that yours has the "upper" fold towards the center of the assembly, whereas David has that same loop pulled to the back. I try to do mine like Davids. In the photo below, I believe yours is folded like below, I believe the dotted gre...

George, in your first post, you state the engine ran two minutes then froze, you never said you pushed in the clutch pedal. Could there be another cause, such as the transmission input shaft being too long, jamming into the flywheel, jamming the crankshaft against the thrust washer causing the failu...

Tom, the reason for the 3.54 ratio is that in North America in the 60's and 70's bragging rights depended on 0 to 60 times and stop light performance. Geoff, yes, I said it was not the US government's 55 mph speed limit that had the 3.54 ratio preferred in the US, is was the customer. I do not know...

The real snag to US imports is that almost invariably they come with the 3.54 diff ( which provided stupendous acceleration from rest but reflected the 55 mph speed limit which was widespread in the US at the time) and which also results in ridiculously lower speeds in the gears. The US national 55...

When 1st is hard to engage, how is reverse? Does it engage normally or do the gears grind?
Tom

It seems to be quite common for manufacturers to use different names for the same car in different markets. I do not see this as unusual at all.
Tom

IMO the proper method to increase the effort is to increase the spring effort to open the valve
Changing the hydraulics is, IMO a poor bandaid.
Tom

Many have posted some good thoughts that are well worth investigating. I will add two possibly far fetched thoughts. 1. You say it cranks slow after it is laid up for a while. What is the chance of a weak battery? 2. What type of fuel pump do you have? If it is a motor driven pump, I wonder if the f...

Serge, sorry, I was only partially correct and thus misleading above. On the 3.8 S1 with generators, which is what you have, the ignition warning light is a generator charge light. Starting with the early S1 4.2 with the alternators, initially they used an oil pressure switch, then changed over to t...

I believe there is some misunderstanding. The E Type does not have an alternator warning light. It has an ignition warning light. The ignition warning light is to warn the driver the ignition key is left on when the engine is not running. In early cars, including S1 4.2's up to about July 1967, the ...

Mark, I would not agree with your assessment. Some history: The safety rim was first used in the early 1940's, I believe by Dodge. The bump on the rim was designed to keep the tire on the rim after a loss of air pressure. This was before the tubeless tire. The first successful tubeless tire was BF G...

Marek, I am glad you found some more information. I did mention in my post about the temperature compensation, but not all ballast systems use that. Some use a resistor wire- and I do not believe those have any temperature compensation. The meat of the issue is the shortened dwell time at speed. I b...