The 'E' Type Forum

Hi Steve, the only changes from that point have been new slow running valve seals and dished washers plus more accurate micrometer setting of the jet height instead of just relying on two and a half turns of the jet adjusting screw. I did clamp off the vacuum hose at the manifold today but that made...

Hi Steve, Julian, Simon and Andrew. Thanks for the advice to date. However having started from scratch several times to re set the SU carbs in accordance with the Jaguar workshop manual I am still unable to get below 2000 rpm no matter how I adjust the slow running valve ( even when fully closed) . ...

It was a follow up to the carb setting posts. The query about my difficulty posting was via a separate log in. In that instance I input my log in into the fields as opposed to using Google autofil as I was curious if that was the cause. I have found on a multitude of websites that autofil of email a...

I’m not sure this is the correct place for this question but I can’t see another place for it. I’ve been trying to post a lengthy follow up question. I’ve written the note twice whilst logged in but when I’ve tried to submit I’ve bee told I can’t unless logged in Despite noting my log in username st...

Hi Steve, I have a quite thick booklet which covers all types of SU carbs but in accordance with everyone’s advice I’m going to follow the Jaguar service manual instructions for set up. Am I correct in assuming that as the exploded carb diagram in the manual doesn’t show the slow running valve suppo...

Thanks Julien and Andrew, it’s nice to have uniform confirmation of the way forward. I’ve ordered a synchronometer which is due tomorrow so hopefully I’ll make progress on Saturday. I’m also going to start set up from scratch including the choke linkages and Mangoletsi settings. One final question, ...

Thanks Steve and Simon. They are rebuilt carbs with new jets, needles, seals etc. The car has only done 3 miles around the block since a complete rebuild. I don't want to run it much more until I’ve got fuelling sorted. Mangoletsi set up was fitted during the carb installation, operation is very pos...

I’m still struggling with achieving a smooth tickover. When the engine is up to temperature and the choke is off tickover bounces between 700 rpm and 1200 rpm and sounds lumpy. Sparks are like lightening bolts on all cylinders (sparkright testers are brilliant). Timing is spot on so it’s obviously a...

Before filling the brake reservoirs I decided to fit Robey's remote rear bleeding kit to make the bleeding process easier. I did remember to remove the ball bearings when removing the existing bleed nipples. The master cylinder, servo, calipers and brake lines are all new. Starting the bleeding proc...

Thanks Danny and Marek for prompt responses. The fuel guage appears to be reading correctly therefore I think the regulator is working ok. The operating temperature of the otter switch was checked at the otter switch. ie switch removed and current applied across the switch and test bulb. The make an...

Today I checked out the temperature switch which completed the circuit at 82 degrees and broke it at 76 degrees so that wasn't the problem. I tested the relay and that clicked in ok so I had a wiring problem somewhere. Working through the wiring by section I found that there was no earth from the fa...

Thanks for the responses, my relay is definitely 3 pin. It's a new relay but the original relay was also 3 pin. Additionally the wiring loom only has 3 wiring connections at that point. It occurs to me that I have a new twin fan alluminium radiator and I need to check that the relay is adequate for ...

Is that the fan relay on the picture frame? If so it’s different to mine which only has three terminals. Is that why you need the jump wire. I’m sure that the required relay is number 6RA but you seem to have relay 111SRB.
Alan

Now that I've sorted the over revving issue I've been able to run the engine up to temperature for the first time. I got a little alarmed because the temperature guage rose to just below the red sector and the cooling fans did not kick in. My thermocouple temp guage gave readings of 74 degsC on the ...

Went through all the settings again, put new seals on the slow run screw and finally got the file down to a slightly lumpy 1200 rpm. Just need to carry out final mixture zn tickover speed
Thanks everyone for the help.

Thanks Christopher, I've checked the connections as you suggested and can't see any discrepancy with the SNG Barratt diagram in their online catalogue. The servo and reaction valve are brand new but could be faulty so I guess I need to block off the vacuum system and do the test run of the engine ag...

I've just started my series 1.5 for the first time after restoration and initially it was reving at 300rpm I shut off and went through the carb set up again but this time it flew to 4000 rpm without choke. All the butterflies are closed, the slow running jet is screwed down. I'm using the mangoletsi...

Thanks for all the input. Actually the problem was indeed the incorrect orientation of the sender. I'd read that the float had to be installed to the rear of the car. I took the sender out and reinstalled it with the correct orientation and the guage worked and the light went out. The clue was that ...

Thanks for prompt responses. I didn’t move the float while the sender was out of the tank because it was a brand new sender and because once the old sender is removed the tank is open to atmosphere and therefore vented, oxygen to petrol ratio will no longer be saturated and instructions on the plate...

With 35 litres in the fuel tank my guage was only just off the E mark. I replaced the sender but the needle then failed to move from the E mark. I read somewhere that the orientation of the sender in the tank was significant but am not sure if that is correct. The old sender may have been fitted the...