The 'E' Type Forum

I have a 3.07:1 limited slip diff in my E-type. Car had been off the road for a couple of decades. I foolishly did not check the fluid level in the diff before doing its first drive last week (I thought I had!) after a major rebuild (diff not included in rebuild). Car drove 10 kilometres before a mi...

Thanks for the advice.

I have damaged the diff on my Australian delivered 1968 Series 1.5 4.2L. I believe it has a 3.07:1 diff. I need to confirm. It had insufficient oil in it. A shocking oversight! Because there are not many Jag E-type diffs floating round, can I transplant a similar ratio diff from another Jag, like a ...

Thanks Geoff. 'I can see clearly now the blur has gone' :geek: (aka Johnny Nash). Maybe I can blame some of my mistakes/missteps on bad vision! Unfortunately I'm not allowed in the garage for a few days. If the 'D' is 180 degrees out, then I'll pop the pin out and turn it around. That said, it still...

Thanks. I’ll double check I set it up right before drawing any conclusions. With #1 piston raised fully and the crank pulley timing mark set at the pointer, it should be right. I didn’t use a gauge to accurately determine piston position as I saw the pulley timing mark was matching up nicely anyway....

Hi Steve, Thanks - I'll do that. Just going in for some cataract surgery today so might be a couple of days. I took a photo with the dizzy out that showed the dog locator at roughly 11 o'clock. I'll attach that one. From memory, the rotor direction is at 90 degrees to the dog locator slot, pointing ...

Thanks Steve. I'll give that a go. Hopefully the ratchet mechanism does its job. It doesn't appear to operate with the handbrake lever - hopefully I can do one at a time.

Cheers, Lloyd

Hi Steve, yes - I do have those two rear access plates behind the rear squab. I've used them to bleed the rear brakes. However, I can't see how anyone could (a) remove the locking pin and (b) get a screw driver onto the adjusting bolt... ... I've just had a further search on this and I note that the...

Sorry for not responding to everyone's replies earlier (was out of town). Thanks for all your comments. I still seem to require significant static advance (roughly 20deg more than expected, ~34deg). Car starts at the turn of the key, so no issues there. Have double-checked timing on crank pulley aga...

Thanks for the info Steve. It looks like my car is one of the ones without access plates.

Cheers,

Lloyd

Hi, I've read in this forum that there are handbrake inspection panels over each rear brake setup above the IRS. Is that on all Series 1's, including 1.5's? Mine does not have inspection panels. Not sure why?! I've had the IRS out not so long ago. I'm loathed to remove it all again. I note that they...

Yesterday I advanced the static timing to something ridiculous (about 34 BTDC). Clearly something is out somewhere. I know #1 is at the back at #6 is at the front. Manual also says time with #6 which I am.

What should I look at?

Update: I popped in the old distributor late yesterday to confirm that there wasn’t any issues with the 123 distributor. It ran much the same. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and it read about 15 in-Hg. I advanced the timing until it read 18 in-Hg (which was wear it peaked at). Tha...

I have the same 123 as you, non bluetooth, and use curve 2. SNG use curve 5, but that advances a lot more than standard. Mine runs well on 2. Potential problem though - when you install the 123, you set it up by rotating until the light goes out? or comes on? Anyway, that is quite critical and mine...

Hi all, in the process of rebuilding a Series 1.5 4.2L. RHD. Has a rebuilt engine, new electrics etc. Starts,runs and idles fine. Installed a 123 distributor with 16 curve (non-bluetooth). Timing set at 10BTDC manually and checked with strobe light at idle. When I rev the engine it will backfire thr...

My heater motor was making some nasty noises and only working on hi-speed, so it suggested a bearing problem. When I removed the motor and opened it up, I found that one end of the shaft was located in a socket which was held in by a retaining ring with several legs. One of the legs had broken off, ...

Thanks. I've just realised that I can see what's happening from the rear of the car through the IRS. It appears as if the pin on one of the handbrake calipers has popped out. Not sure if it's possible to get one in without dropping the IRS (and the exhaust!). Bugger.

Hi, I realise that there are a few posts on this subject already, but I couldn't find my answer. I have a '68 S1.5 2+2 manual. I've had the IRS out whilst the body was being painted. The IRS was also apart, reco'd calipers fitted, etc., so there is a chance that I haven't hooked up the handbrake pro...