The 'E' Type Forum

Dave, my cheapo phone camera has a tendency to try to brighten my world too much...

The paint is not as shiny and flashy in real life as shown. It's Opalescent Dark Blue, and an OTS here in Denmark has the same colour and is very similar.

After all my questions, something new, just a view of the result so far :bigrin: Today the E-Type moved under its own power. That's my milestone for 2024, so ahead of schedule. The very picky E-Type connaisseur might be able to spot a few things still missing. :wink: Like doors, glass, side chrome a...

Was about to install rear door, and first the BD23347 rubber that comes in two parts (why?). Which way should it go in? And is it glued? Now, things like that would be quite obvious to me if -I lived in an area with a FHC near -Had taken it apart myself -Had the old rubber None of those three apply ...

Spent some time on this... 1. Do not use only water, no matter what climate you live in. Pure water produces rust and silt and clogs passages etc. When looking to buy a used car, if it has pure water in it, never bought it... 2. Do not use waterless. It has 7-8 drawbacks that I can't remember, but o...

Great, keep 'em coming...

As an E-Type rookie I've learned that this car definitely has to be assembled in a certain sequence, or you have to go back and redo stuff. I haven't messed up big time like forgetting the propshaft, so far so good I think. And a few books talk about it. But now I've gotten so far, I "only" need to ...

Maybe I'm missing something

I want the original gauge faces at almost any cost. My test tells me engine oil pressure is fine, and my soon to be warning light will give peace of mind. So I get it all

IMHO

Moss and Martin Robey have a C23016 Oil Pressure Warning Light Switch. But can't see thread size or PSI it kicks in. Is it that critical with PSI? Some friends many years ago took the oil out of a scrapped Corolla and put a brick on the throttle, expecting it to kill itself quickly. It ran for 20 mi...

I've now ordered MWS XW5738C/3-TL. They're 6.5", so width according to google must be max 215, ideal is 195-205, but a local guy has 225, doesn't look too crazy. I think I prefer 215 though if possible... Any recommendations on brand? Here's what I'm looking for: -215 +/- -OEM look -OEM diameter -Go...

I've decided to keep my gauge and sender. And with a tee add a warning light sender, and use the Brake warning light, so it now has triple duty. I don't think I would notice lower gauge on time, but a big red light, probably

Noone knows of a sensor/sender that is calibrated better to our OEM gauge?

Got my mechanical test gauge today. And by chance I had a tee so I could monitor the electric gauge compared to the assumed much more accurate new mech test gauge. -Starting cold and approx 1500 rpm, mech said 65, elec disappeared to the right -With choker off and temp gauge at 70, 550 rpm, mech sai...

Colour

About to order some interior stuff. What I have in the boxes for this car vary from what I would call bright signal red to quite dark red. Were there several reds? Can I just say "red" to BAS? And what is the right color for headliner, what I have (not a lot) looks beige?

Thanks, ordered mechanical oil pressure test kit. Not a gauge to install, I can live with crazy low OEM gauge, if I know what reality is.

Any input to oil viscocity, gut feeling would be 15-40 or 20-50 on an old, though unworn, engine?

If I attach mechanical gauge, what are minimum good numbers, hot cold @rpm?

I see this has been discussed before, but trying to read and learn, there seems to be different opinions... Just had my engine started for the first time. It's totally rebuilt by a trusted mechanic (myself), so no worn bearings etc, new oil pump, sealing rings etc., should be ok Took me several hour...

Development, had the engine started today for the first time :-) It ran erratically, now a lot better after adjusting the SUs. In an effort to get it 100% right I read the how-to on SU's homepage. And it led me to these questions: 1. On our 3.8 with triple SUs, is it correct that we don't have "thro...

Finally I got the clutch bled. Tried a few things of the advice here, but never got it fully as I expected. In the end I decide to bite the bullet and switch incoming and bleeding valve on the clutch slave. It's against nature to have the bleeder valve on the bottom, air will not come out downwards....

Hi Steve, no, that method normally works, unless bubbles in master

I think here (clutch) the issue is that bleeder screw is at the bottom. Wonder what people's thoughts are on that

So, brakes are fine, nice firm pedal And the clutch, I think it'll work, now that I bought a correct rod for the slave, instead of the home welded one in the box, and adjusted both slave rod and at pedal. But it still feels I have to move pedal too far before resistance, and it still feels a bit mus...