The 'E' Type Forum

Just a short follow-up: I pulled the switch and, rather than trying to disassemble, I applied a bit of WD-40 (an all-purpose elixir also known as penetrating oil) to the rotating parts. Problem solved. Now, if the oil doesn't polymerize...

I experienced the same problem, but caused by a sticking ignition switch in my S3. Fortunately, it appears little damage to either the starter or flywheel as I was able to diagnose the problem quickly. Now I'm thinking of pulling the switch to see if it can be cleaned, lubricated, or a new spring fi...

Success! LOTS of (heat gun) heat, a 3 pound persuader and the appropriate words of encouragement did the trick. Now, when the spinners cool, I'll pull the wheels. By the way, the project is rebuilding the ball joints and replacing the remains of the gaiters. Thanks for the advice, all.

Hello, Simon, and thanks for the post. Actually, my concern (so far) has been only with removing the front wheels. I have no reason to suspect rear wheel bearing problems. The S3 manual covers those also, and the front bearings, but the procedures seem to anticipate I have the disc wheels with lugs,...

Marek, thank you. Very reassuring. I tried a bit of heat previously but will get more aggressive with the heat gun; I want to avoid a torch if at all possible. Has anyone encountered any documentation on wheel removal & component servicing? I'd like to know what I'm going to find once I get the whee...

Thanks, Andrew. I've tried that already - and managed to miss the paintwork! I'll try it again with the addition of heat as Marek suggests.

Can't seem to loosen the front wire wheel spinners on my S3, even using a bigger hammer. Does anyone know if it's ok to apply heat to these? Also, the service manual refers to section 74.20.01 for wheel removal - this section doesn't exist in any manual I've seen, so I don't see any procedure for wh...

Does anyone know of a source for these filters? Everywhere I've checked seems out of stock and AC Delco has discontinued them.

Hmmm - I thought that was what I was saying: Handbrake engaged, both circuits grounded. If ignition is on, handbrake warning light is on, SBW light and buzzer are off. Handbrake off, neither circuit grounded at this point and the handbrake/fluid light is off unless grounded at fluid reservoirs, SBW ...

Yes, it's clearly a diode and, as installed, would allow a current flow to the powered side of the handbrake warning switch from whatever circuit it is connected to, which would allow that circuit to be grounded as long as the handbrake was on. It would not allow current to flow to the "mystery" cir...

I have experienced the same when changing the handbrake switch (see photos). The parasite diode is attached on the positive side of the switch to a braided-looking white on black wire. However, it runs under the LHD driver's seat to an unknown destination and is secured by what appear to be factory-...

Craig, looks like you have an awesome opportunity in front of you. I hope you'll read this post before going further with the LED conversion. I communicated with Marek H by email seeking direction to his previous posts on this topic. He very kindly replied and included detailed technical advice on w...

Just went thru the dash again and yes, there are 15 - 987's and 9 - 281's - found an additional 281 hiding in the mass of wiring. Here are the locations: 987's: battery, oil pressure, fuel level and water temperature - 1 each turn signal indicators - 2 hazard warning indicator - 1 speedometer and ta...

Yes, but then I'd be on the wrong side to reach the drive-thru ATM. Gotta pay for all these parts somehow!

Well, I replaced the warning light sensor today, probably the most difficult auto work I've done - and I've pulled engines & trannies before. Turns out there is an access panel below the brake booster - you'll need to remove the windshield washer bottle to get at the fasteners. Once off, you can sna...

Would be interested to hear from anyone who's replaced the interior Lucas bulbs with LED's in an S3. I went through this process with a kit containing 23 #987 replacements and 6 #281 replacements. The results are great - much brighter light on the gauges, but the number of bulbs in the kit doesn't s...

I'm about to resto my S3 seats and headrests- cracked leather, rotted foam, split seams. I want to make sure I order everything I need to do the job in one shot. Anyone been through this who can advise? Besides the foam for headrest, seat & backrest, diaphragm, and covers - what else? I see there's ...

Thanks, both of you, for the excellent direction. I've spotted it (using a borescope, I cheated). What a delightful location under the exhaust manifold! I can see why it was later moved to up on top. The wiring appears solid at this point.

The oil warning light on my 1972 OTS flickers, although the gauge reads 40-60 psi. I suspect I need to replace the switch but can't seem to locate it. The factory service manual suggests it's behind the washer tank and lower brake fluid reservoir but I can't see it - the only wire in the area goes t...

Mark, thanks, but when I store the wheel inside up, the securing device (bolt? flange?) is too long to anchor the spare tire tightly. I have to believe it was meant to be stored outside up. I've been able to store the jack atop the wheel (see picture) but I'm surprised Jaguar doesn't give directions...