The 'E' Type Forum

I have experienced exactly the same problem as Andrew with the C21710 aftermarket indicator switch. It is simply cheap crap. I also started with superglue, but that didn't work. Then I made the thread longer so there was room for a lock nut, as seen in the photo. It worked for 14 days, then it came ...

A few years ago I did the change from 3.54 to 3.07 on my 1966 FHC. It is the best upgrade to my E-type ever! I bought the pin+crown from SNG Barret and have been very happy with the quality. It is manufactured in the UK by Tran-X who are part of the Quaife group. If they still supply SNG I can recom...

In general it would be nice to have a list of cross reference parts between other brands and E-type. When I was renovating my IRS and propshaft on my 1965 FHC last year I discovered by chance that the propshaft flange yoke and universal joints fit 100% from a Land Rover Series 3. I had some Land Rov...

I have used POR-15 with great success on my IRS a few years ago. Powder coating tends to crack and is not suitable for the IRS frame itself. In my opinion, Hammerite is a very overrated product that does not provide very good protection. In contrast to Hammerite, POR-15 provides an extremely hard an...

Hej Mikael,

I am also from Denmark and 2 years ago I had the same problem with MOT. I simply took the Service Manual with me to the synsmand (MOT-man in Danish) and showed him page A.4 where it says 1123 KG dry weight.

Marek,

Sorry, my mistake. You are right toe-in/out can´t easily be alter at the rear (fixed by the length of the radius arms).

The half a degree at the front is that total for both wheels or for each wheel?

Jesper

I have bought a used professional laser wheel alignment tool. The brand is KOCH and it is made in Germany. After what I can read about the system it is very accurate. But the system only works in degrees and not actual measurements in mm or inches for the toe-in setting. Does anyone know the front a...

The short answer is: no you need a complete engine rebuild. As far as I can see on the picture you need at least one new cylinder liner. I don't think it is possible to fix the rusty cylinder by just machining it. Sorry no easy way

Last year I ordered a CoolCat at their website https://www.coolcatcorp.com and it only took 7 days from the day I ordered to the day I received the fan at my address in Denmark. I am very happy with the CoolCat and can fully recommend it. I was on a trip from Denmark to Italy last summer in the extr...

Hi Dave, Thank you for your detailed reply. I am more relaxed now and don't actually think theres is a problem with “loose” axles in my unit. You are right about that my axles are clean and oil free and the rattle (or more precise clicking sound) i hear is probably because of the lack of oil. Althou...

Thank you Steve. I have also found some old school documentation from Spicer/Dana and they call the axles "Semi floating". After reading how the Thornton power lock actually works I now understand that the axles must be able to slide inwards along the vee shaped rampes in the diff cage. The sliding ...

I am in process with a rebuild of my 1965 FHC differential including new clutch plates in the Thornton LSD. I got the clutch kit from Moss in France. Moss supplied me a box with an original Spicer/Dana 44 clutch kits. After assemble the diff carrier with the new clutch plates the shafts/axles for th...

During my present work on swapping the rear end gearing from 3.54 to 3.07 on my S1 1965 FHC I noticed that one of the drive shaft flanges touches the bolts on the caliper mounting adaptor plate. After taking the drive shaft unit apart I discovered that some of the material on the drive shaft flange ...

I am new to this forum. This winter I decided to swap the 3.54 differential gearing in my 1965 FHC to a more pleasant 3.07. I have got the 3.07 ring and pinion gear from SNG Barret and they are getting them produced at the British company Tran-X (part of Quaife). The new gear-set does not have a pin...