The 'E' Type Forum

I'm in two minds as to whether to keep the ammeter or not.

I'm going to replace the ammeter with one with the guts of a 50 amp Landrover one which I think should be robust enough.

Otherwise I'll convert to a voltmeter, but I'd prefer to keep it original if I can.

Follow up. #5 plug lead pulled; no difference in rpm. Plug removed; oiled up. Replaced. Car runs perfectly.

We'd been moving the car in and out of the garage a lot while working on Dave's ND. Too much choke fouled the plugs.

Good outcome. The early 4.2s had the front and rear circuits reversed in comparison to all the later cars.

Yes negative earth. I agree now I look at it the diagram terminals are drawn in a different order. I have wired it to the letters.

mgcjag wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 26, 2026 7:11 am

Hi Amdrew....great info....Thanks for posting

All good. It surprised me that I couldn't find instructions for doing this easily.

Hopefully this will save someone else the trouble in the future.

I thought I'd write a little post about installing the Tudor Dynamator in my 3.8 coupe. I'm doing this because it wasn't immediately clear how to do this. First a word about Tudor. I chose to order the Dynamator from their website, which is in the UK. The price is listed as GBP 199.95, which is the ...

Before I delve into the electrics again is there any reason the car should now only run on 5 cylinders after fitting a Dynamator?

I can't think of one, but I am a little poorly educated when it comes to the electrics.

I got sick of trying to work out why the generator wasn't charging the battery.

viewtopic.php?t=6273

My guess is air as well. Try pressure bleeding as above.

As an aside, when I bought my 3.8 coupe as a total restoration prospect, I did it sight unseen in a city about 3000 km away. I was quite reluctant to just transfer the money electronically when I couldn't even be sure that the car actually existed. But I have a good friend in that city and he agreed...

Your oil pressure with the engine running looks fine. I would not be concerned.

The money’s in the body work. Repairing a rusted out shell can turn into a bottomless money pit. Regardless of what you buy you want photo evidence of a bare metal respray on a restored car or to be very convinced that an unrestored car isn’t rotten, especially in the uk. Mechanical repairs are less...

On those numbers your car runs cooler, on average, than any of mine.

bitsobrits wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 19, 2026 2:51 pm

If your car is "rattling over poor surfaces" I think the stiffness of the body tub would be among the last culprits.

I agree. Fix all the other things first.

From that wear pattern it does look like the side of the tip of the lobe is hitting something. The right side might also be worn.

The sides of the lobe are pretty irregular too. I wonder if someone has welded it.

PierreW wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 24, 2026 6:28 pm

Hi and where did you find the white plastic piece ?

They have been for sale by the usuals on and off.

If you disassemble it carefully you can probably fix what's wrong with your old one.

C25254 uses the plastic ring to cancel; so you'd need that as well.

Perfectly ok to use old wheels.

My Mk2 is running on the original wheels from my 4.2 coupe.

Having purchased a new indicator switch to replace my original (unfixable) I fitted it. Only to find that the switch arm rotated in the housing, meaning that I couldn't actuate the switch. After trying to wick some superglue into the socket without success I removed it (not a quick job) and disassem...

As above, remove the pedal box and do all the assembly on the bench.

Disassemble the reaction valve at the front of the brake master, remove the tiny piston and clean and then thoroughly grease it before reinstallation.