The 'E' Type Forum

PierreW wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 24, 2026 6:28 pm

Hi and where did you find the white plastic piece ?

They have been for sale by the usuals on and off.

If you disassemble it carefully you can probably fix what's wrong with your old one.

C25254 uses the plastic ring to cancel; so you'd need that as well.

Perfectly ok to use old wheels.

My Mk2 is running on the original wheels from my 4.2 coupe.

Having purchased a new indicator switch to replace my original (unfixable) I fitted it. Only to find that the switch arm rotated in the housing, meaning that I couldn't actuate the switch. After trying to wick some superglue into the socket without success I removed it (not a quick job) and disassem...

As above, remove the pedal box and do all the assembly on the bench.

Disassemble the reaction valve at the front of the brake master, remove the tiny piston and clean and then thoroughly grease it before reinstallation.

mgcjag wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 14, 2026 7:41 am

or get a longer xj6 driveshaft( cheap on ebay) to play with..cut it and use a slip tube to join it...you then have an adjustable length driveshaft to play with.....Steve

That's how I'd do it.

lowact wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 05, 2026 6:34 am

Andrew, nah, BSC is 60 degrees. BSB is 55 degree whitworth

Right. Off to EBay.

Edit. I'm getting senile. We've had exactly the same discussion before viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20798

lowact wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 05, 2026 2:34 am

It's BSB, British Standard Brass. Yes it is a thing. Speedo drive is 3/4" x 26 TPI. I'm imagining that Jaguar speedo transducers, e.g. DAC4569, would screw straight on ...

Hey Colin is this the same as British Cycle with the 26tpi or different?

I've gotta have one of these taps :-)

I neither have a fully equipped workshop with lathe, etc. nor the skills to use them. Geoff Go on, you know you want to. You can get a small combination lathe and mill with a footprint of a couple of square feet for not very much, and Youtube will teach you all the skills you need. I learned by buy...

The 9 suffix indicates 9:1 compression from the factory. Are you in the process of rebuilding the engine? If so give consideration to the fact that previous head and block skimming will push CR above 9:1 if you use 9:1 new pistons without CCing the head and calculation it accurately. Too much compre...

Nice work and nice writeup as always Rory.

I've never bent a door but we often have to tweak the boot lids on an OTS for proper fit. A scary experience the first time.

I've not seen the cam bearings linebored on any of our rebuilds. It just doesn't seem to be an issue.

If you were to do it I'd expect that what you'd do is grind material off the bottom of the cap then correct the alignment, the same way you do rod journals, so you wouldn't need oversize bearings.

Knightrider wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 24, 2026 5:09 pm

Oof! Just checked the cost of time sert kits! About half the cost of a new manifold!

I might give v-coils a try first with some permatex high-temp sealant on both sides...

Take it to your local thread repair place.

We have Captain Thread and Doctor Bolt here.

Thanks Bill.

We have a business here that makes suspension springs for 4WD and race applications.

I'll take it to them.

I bought an uprated sway bar for my Mk2 a few years ago. When I came to fit it it was the wrong shape. See photo of it with the standard bar. Can I heat it up with an oxy torch and bend it to be the correct shape? Will heating it damage either the material or the temper? https://i.postimg.cc/9MzNtsc...

mtnjag wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 02, 2025 2:54 pm

And bullet mirrors on the fenders while they look cool are next to useless IMO.

Absolutely agree. A PO fitted them on my MK2. Look cool. Completely useless.

See my avatar.

rfs1957 wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 19, 2025 9:47 am

I wouldn't believe a single word of anything that SC Parts said to me.

Unfortunately that has been my experience with them as well.

Steve, can you put up some comparison photos with your old sump?

Not an easy thing to change if the cheap ones fall apart.

I'd go with genuine.

The distance piece is most likely to cause trouble. It may have an o ring under it.

I'd just use a brass drift and a hammer. They're not usually very hard to get off.

Woodroffe key can be removed by gripping it with a pair of side cutters and levering it out.