The 'E' Type Forum

I'm looking forward to the next replies on this thread, the PO of my car has fitted the Boge's upside down (shroud at bottom), so I need to flip them around. Not figured out bolt clearance to body - my top bolts are installed with nut's facing each other, e.g. bolt heads on the outermost sides of th...

Quoting the age-old advice : "fit & forget"

You'll never notice a 1/4" on the fully expanded length once they're in the car, and the important length is the semi-compressed state once loaded by the car self-weight (as mentioned by Marek).

Brilliant !!! Very well done

Check out this thread http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=7912&sid=55f609f9f2179092b8f87918f557a447 And this site http://goodmanreed.com/inventory/1970-jaguar-e-type-ots-1/ Otherwise stand back and wait for replies saying it's your car so it's up to you to choose the colours you like :D If the ...

Assuming you are talking about the exhaust manifolds. Easy job, just spannering with a 1/2" AF along the block, and then 1/2" or 9/16" AF socket (memory fading) on some long extensions from below, to get to the exhaust pipe flanges. You'll need exhaust gaskets for the block and for the downpipes. It...

I would not advocate the use of heat. When taking out mine (albeit on a 4.2) I used a "proper" allen / unbrako 1/2" socket and a long breaker / extension, around 2 foot length, and even then I had to put a lot of grunt to get them moving. I'd started to chew up one of the hex holes with a less than ...

Excellent description, I will remember this is on the Forum for future reference, but hope that I never need to read this again! Just thinking aloud, instead of the needle nose pliers I wonder if a bit of wood (say a paint mixing stick) taped in same manner to the washer hose would be better. Easier...

Thanks for the picture, I have them on my car so am quite familiar with them :D On my last post I was suggesting that Andrew post a picture of his particular dilemma. Mine are brass (or bronze) as can be seen from the dull brown finish. Underneath I've polished a bit to show the yellow metal, the gr...

Andrew The earth lead terminal that you're trying to get to clamp onto the red battery post, new from SNG, is that the brass cup style, with the screw through the top ? (or is it the modern split-C with squeeze bolt) If the former, then I wonder if the height (or length) of the terminal on the Fossw...

Trev, When you say that you have a S1 bellhousing, and this is putting the starter pinion too far away (radially I presume) from the flywheel teeth, I guess this means that you have a 3.8 liter bellhousing? With the Brise part "Jaguar 3.8 with 4.2 flywheel 8926094-5AXG" being the fix. Right ? Anothe...

Here's the thread with the LM2914 / LM2917 circuit layout
viewtopic.php?t=292&postdays=0&postorde ... er&start=0

Welcome ! Nice picture of a nice car !

I was fighting wirh the exhaust manifold heat shields a few days ago, spoiled an otherwise enjoyable day in the workshop. Even went as far as bending the metalwork to try to get them to pass between manifold and frames. Realised in the nick of time it was appropriate to 'down tools' and walk away be...

Shims behind pulley would start to put the pulley out of line with the other pulleys. I would make sure I had witness marks, pull off the pulley and then use a die grinder to remove metal from the pump casting. Quicker than faffing around trying to find or make precision shims, remember its a rotati...

Welcome Mick ! The auto box is not all that bad, you can hold it in 1st and blast away from the traffic lights, or use the lever on overtakes, in addition to the kick-down. I actually got sort of fond of my auto box, especially on the gridlock crawls in rush traffic (I used mine as my daily driver f...

Any classic car owner should never think of m.p.g. nor L/100km :D

Just fill 'er up and enjoy :D

Andrew, I assuming you're fixing brakes on a 4.2 with Lockheed servo, not the 3.8 car? I overhauled my brake servo & cylinder a while back using the kit 11237# from SNG, and it came with all the right bits, e.g. both the big rubber diaphragm and all the smaller rubber seals, and lock tabs and paper ...

(removing foot from mouth - I see now the pics at Beverly - nice car !)

Removing the otter switch would also lead to a rapid loss of coolant :D

Not quite sure where this part is on the RR, is it a visible sill moulding on the outside of the RR, or a trim panel visible once the door is opened ? Anyhow, my money is on it being a PP or an ABS material, quite possibly a PC-ABS blend, commonly used on exterior trim parts, however I'm not sure wh...