The 'E' Type Forum

I believe those marks are simply remnants from the casting process, but I understand your concern. I would always recommend magnaflux crack testing for parts of unknown provenance before using them in a build. It's fairly inexpensive, but a bit of hassle to get the block to/from a shop. Alternativel...

I have a Malpassi unit in my Singer, never an issue. It appears that someone may have over cranked the adjuster screw (top center), forcing the brass piece out of its seat. If the O ring looks fine, I would be inclined to simply clean and reassemble the Malpassi, then carefully readjust the fuel pre...

"I have the stock crankcase breather system on my 3.8 S1. Front of head to plenum. Always gets rather nasty in there." The stock breather system is a pretty good air/oil separator, assuming you still have the screen in place behind the breather adaptor plate. If you are getting too much oil mist int...

Perhaps you mean wiper motor wires? If so, you may want to edit your post subject name in order to get some relevant help.

Chris, The operating current of the 123 unit is <100mA according to the 123 installation directions listed on their webpage, which means even an 18 gauge wire woulds be sufficient. I believe all of the small gauge wiring in the E loom is 16 gauge, so much heavier than required. The 123+ distributor ...

The rubber bumpers above the rear hubs were installed by the factory angled outwards, towards the wheels.
If you are running wider wheels/tires, it's a common mod to turn them around and angle them inwards for clearance.

Thank you all for you advice, Steve, what did you use for the ball joint that attaches the cable to the ball on the accelerator pedal leaver? At first I thought it was one of the old control rods, but on closer inspection they are different. Paul It's a common linkage rod/cable accessory available ...

I did my own cable conversion, and it's not terribly difficult, especially if you worked as a bicycle mechanic during your college years :bigrin: In terms of functional improvement over original design, I would rate it one of the best mods you can do, but then I have a LHD car with it's very Rube Go...

Perhaps they were being retained as demonstrators?

Touche

All well and good until the worn stub axle fails and the wheel departs for the shrubbery.

As Malcom Sayer designed it, the E type body tapers its entire length from front to rear, with the widest part near the front edge of the front wheel arch. From certain angles that can create the illusion that there is a bulge in the curve of the wheel arch. Due to the shaped metal, flanging, and bo...

You can also install tapered bearing spacer tubes (and use precision shims to set the desired end float or preload). The spacer/shims allows the bearings inner races to be clamped tightly and precludes rotation of the race on the stub axle. Also helps eliminate pad "knock back" and gives a better fe...

If you have new engine frames (i.e. no internal corrosion) you shouldn't see an appreciable change in bonnet position with engine in or out. Note that some noted E type restorers do final body fitment and panel gaps when the body/chassis is bare. That should tell you all you need to know. FWIW, I di...

Not normal, but probably not much to worry about. What's most important is how it runs over the rev range when driving. If the plugs look happy after doing a plug cut or two, then I'd be inclined to leave it alone. But...If you can't leave it alone, a couple of culprits that comes to mind are wear i...

If the bonnet gaps are exactly where you want them, leave the hinge shims as they are. You should be able to adjust both the body mounted receiver and the bonnet mounted latch pin to get a good closing action without much force. Note there is a rubber cushion on the locating pin that needs to be ins...

SNG used to sell such a knob, with reverse right and back. Same size as the factory knob. Probably is still on offer from them.

I think there is a language translation issue here. I'm going to say he's referring to the anti-roll bar as being disconnected. An ARB is indeed a torsion spring, and could be referred to as a torsion bar, though that is not the normal term in English.

Mikael, Those are the 215/65 Redline tires from Coker tires. A BF Goodridge design, I think. Good looking, but tended to squeal easily on low speed turns. Late last year I fitted the Michelins now on the car. I don't seem to have any close up photos of the wheels, per se, but here is another view th...

I just chuck 500ml in with a tank fill every now and then - when I remember. Perhaps if the companies who designed, built, and warrantied these and similar 4 cycle engines over the last 60 years recommended adding 2SO to the fuel, then I might do so. But as they didn't, I'm not. And if your are loo...