Recently bought a 1969 Roadster from the USA, am in the process of bracing the body for inner/ outer sill replacements, a Jig Job is not possible sadly, so any tips to keep it "in Line" are most welcome.
Have removed rear suspension completely, and have axle stands under the engine frames and at the rear of the body and under the rear floor gussets, the doors line up perfectly so plan to leave them in place.
By the way how do these engines advance and retard? I cant see a tube from the manifold to the Distributor. all help much appreciated, am in the Stockport area of Manchester.
USA cars
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#2 Re: USA cars
Pete, welcome to the best place for all things E Type. Please click on your user name (top right) and add your name and car type to the signature area, you can also add where you’re based. It makes it easier to answer questions when we know by looking at your signature which model you’ve got.
I’m guessing the car has two Strombergs, which have a bit of a different advance/retard to the British spec cars with triple SUs. Searching on here for advance or retard and you’ll find useful help, especially when you search within the results for Stromberg or Stranglebergs as they’re also known.
Roll over jigs and the like are available to help work on the body, useful for getting to the underside. Otherwise quite a few of us have made up our own frames or mobile jigs just to move the car around a garage whilst working on it. Why do you say a jig job isn’t possible?
A simple tubular frame that runs the length of the underside strengthening rails will really help keep everything pretty straight. Try not to have the front suspension hanging down for a long time, it needs supporting.
Which books have you bought to help guide you through the rebuild? Look in the knowledge section for a good list of books to help.
Good luck
Geoff
I’m guessing the car has two Strombergs, which have a bit of a different advance/retard to the British spec cars with triple SUs. Searching on here for advance or retard and you’ll find useful help, especially when you search within the results for Stromberg or Stranglebergs as they’re also known.
Roll over jigs and the like are available to help work on the body, useful for getting to the underside. Otherwise quite a few of us have made up our own frames or mobile jigs just to move the car around a garage whilst working on it. Why do you say a jig job isn’t possible?
A simple tubular frame that runs the length of the underside strengthening rails will really help keep everything pretty straight. Try not to have the front suspension hanging down for a long time, it needs supporting.
Which books have you bought to help guide you through the rebuild? Look in the knowledge section for a good list of books to help.
Good luck
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#3 Re: USA cars
I think that some US cars have a non vacume advance distributor..does your distributor have a vacume capsual...look for the part number stamped on the distributor body to check what you have...
Steve
Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#4 Re: USA cars
This is what I developed. It comprises so much steel that even broken down it is difficult to fit in a large van. Weighs well over a tonne.
If you have good door gaps, then there is a pretty good chance your shell is not twisted, so you want to keep it that way and brace it all before you start cutting. The frames need to come off.
If you have no jig, you really need to brace the rotisserie to stop everything collapsing inwards. That is not easy, as it can try and twist in a few different planes.
You need to set the door gaps and the width of the cockpit, using the hood frame mounts in the case of a roadster.
Also set the distance between the front and rear bulkheads. I use the steering column captives.
You may notice a straight beam connecting the front section of the rotisserie to the rear section of the rotisserie through the transmission tunnel. It is essential.
This stops the body collapsing inwards and is removable through a hole in the front section after floor welding is complete and the tub is strong again.
E-type tubs are very strong if they are not rusty.
I use a windscreen to get the pillars in the correct place. and a brace between them for distance prior to removing one.
If you have good door gaps, then there is a pretty good chance your shell is not twisted, so you want to keep it that way and brace it all before you start cutting. The frames need to come off.
If you have no jig, you really need to brace the rotisserie to stop everything collapsing inwards. That is not easy, as it can try and twist in a few different planes.
You need to set the door gaps and the width of the cockpit, using the hood frame mounts in the case of a roadster.
Also set the distance between the front and rear bulkheads. I use the steering column captives.
You may notice a straight beam connecting the front section of the rotisserie to the rear section of the rotisserie through the transmission tunnel. It is essential.
This stops the body collapsing inwards and is removable through a hole in the front section after floor welding is complete and the tub is strong again.
E-type tubs are very strong if they are not rusty.
I use a windscreen to get the pillars in the correct place. and a brace between them for distance prior to removing one.
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
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#5 Re: USA cars
US cars went through having vacuum advance/no advance or retard by vacuum/vacuum retard depending on the age of the car.
My '69 car was in the no vacuum advance or retard category so it's likely yours is the same.
You need to fit a (or modify your current) distributor with vacuum advance and the UK spec mechanical advance curve. There's many options for doing that starting at around £80.
The feed for the vacuum advance capsule can be taken from the inlet manifold or the front Stromberg can have an existing take-off drilled out.
Although the desirable option is to fit triple SUs, it is very expensive. If the secondary ports on the inlet manifold are wired open/removed then along with the distributor changes a Stromberg carbureted car will run well, just not quite as evocative or powerful as triple SUs.
As mentioned earlier, lots of discussion and help on here via the search function.
My '69 car was in the no vacuum advance or retard category so it's likely yours is the same.
You need to fit a (or modify your current) distributor with vacuum advance and the UK spec mechanical advance curve. There's many options for doing that starting at around £80.
The feed for the vacuum advance capsule can be taken from the inlet manifold or the front Stromberg can have an existing take-off drilled out.
Although the desirable option is to fit triple SUs, it is very expensive. If the secondary ports on the inlet manifold are wired open/removed then along with the distributor changes a Stromberg carbureted car will run well, just not quite as evocative or powerful as triple SUs.
As mentioned earlier, lots of discussion and help on here via the search function.
John
1969 Series 2 FHC
1969 Series 2 FHC
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