The 'E' Type Forum

Hi
I am in the process of replacing the exhaust system on my 3.8 FHC. My understanding is that originally there was no heat shield but that these are now available to install and sit somewhere near the central mufflers.
Can anyone confirm this for me and any thoughts on how effective this method is, or other alternative methods. Any detail on the various brands and installation would also be greatly appreciated. I am more than half way through with installation but if it's worthwhile I am happy to go back a step if I need to.
Thanks, Peter

The '64 originally had two relatively small heat shields under the floor...one forward, which was above the down pipes, and one above the silencers. They are depicted in the parts listings in the Technical Support section. There are also some photos in various older strings (search "heat shields").

The following string discusses more robust alternatives. My "solution" is at the very end of the following forum string. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2595

Hi Eric

Thank you for providing that information, which is very helpful. My apologies for the delay in responding.
I am new to the forum and taking a while to navigate the system. I will have a closer look at the various options and make a decision. Anything I do will be better than what I currently have which is nothing.
A friend who is helping me to replace the exhaust is recommending I try to Install some insulation material on the inside of the car as opposed to the outside. He did something similar with his triumph T4 but I'm not sure I can replicate what he did on the etype. Thanks again for your help.
Regards, Peter

Hi Peter,

Many of us on the forum (myself included) have installed koolmat. See below link for info...

viewtopic.php?t=7269&highlight=koolmat

Regards,

I noticed that links on that thread to the koolmat product are no longer working so this should give info...

http://media.wix.com/ugd/f771be_8133aa4 ... 411ade.pdf

Hi Peter,

You might like to check out this stuff

http://www.designengineering.com/catego ... insulation

as it is specifically designed to reflect the heat and is of a thicker composition than the Koolmat and so lends itself to use outside the cockpit and underneath the car. It stops the heat ever getting into the shell of the car rather than stopping it from then being transmitted to the inside of the cockpit.

It has a stiff yet malleable dimpled alloy skin, backed with some kind of Rockwool or w h y insulation, itself self-adhesive, and I used it to great effect around the gearbox tunnel as you can see here on this post if you wade about 2/3 of the way through.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5964&hilit=gearbox

I have bound my header pipes with the lagging tape found on DemonTweeks and the like, in black it's pretty discreet, and this will reduce your temperatures to an extent.

As mine is an OTS I've never bothered with heat-lagging around the centre silencers, as I hardly ever drive with the roof up, but if I did I would definitely use the DesignEngineering matting.

PS When you do a new post, make sure you hit "New Post" from within the section you're aiming for (perhaps Technical in this case ?) rather than Welcome where you are now ; David will probably move it for you anyway.

This is also a game of consequences. I heat proofed the gearbox tunnel area, the bell housing area, fitted the heat shields and lagged the exhaust pipes all the way to the rear silencers.

After upgrading the fan in the heater box, I find I am not getting enough heat in the OTS cabin. There is a great deal of heat loss from the soft top, so some heat soak can be good. Also I can now tell where every single draft is coming from. I'd say do the places that are hard to do later, e.g. gear box tunnel etc. and then take a step by step approach with the rest.

I had the entire exhaust system ...manifolds (black), down pipes, mufflers, tail pipes... coated with silver colored Jet Hot type ceramic coating. Protects against rust and dramatically reduces radiant heat. Most industrial coating companies servicing offshore drilling operations have ovens that are large enough to handle the components. I believe it looks better than stainless once it's polished.

Hi Neil
Thank you very much for sending that information. The product looks good. I am still trying to find my way around the forum but getting there !!!
Cheers, Peter

neil4444 wrote:I noticed that links on that thread to the koolmat product are no longer working so this should give info...

http://media.wix.com/ugd/f771be_8133aa4 ... 411ade.pdf

Thanks very much Rory. That information is very helpful, and I will try to work out the posting as well.
Cheers, Peter



quote="rfs1957"]Hi Peter,

You might like to check out this stuff

http://www.designengineering.com/catego ... insulation

as it is specifically designed to reflect the heat and is of a thicker composition than the Koolmat and so lends itself to use outside the cockpit and underneath the car. It stops the heat ever getting into the shell of the car rather than stopping it from then being transmitted to the inside of the cockpit.

It has a stiff yet malleable dimpled alloy skin, backed with some kind of Rockwool or w h y insulation, itself self-adhesive, and I used it to great effect around the gearbox tunnel as you can see here on this post if you wade about 2/3 of the way through.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5964&hilit=gearbox

I have bound my header pipes with the lagging tape found on DemonTweeks and the like, in black it's pretty discreet, and this will reduce your temperatures to an extent.

As mine is an OTS I've never bothered with heat-lagging around the centre silencers, as I hardly ever drive with the roof up, but if I did I would definitely use the DesignEngineering matting.

PS When you do a new post, make sure you hit "New Post" from within the section you're aiming for (perhaps Technical in this case ?) rather than Welcome where you are now ; David will probably move it for you anyway.[/quote]

mark10337 wrote:This is also a game of consequences. I heat proofed the gearbox tunnel area, the bell housing area, fitted the heat shields and lagged the exhaust pipes all the way to the rear silencers.

After upgrading the fan in the heater box, I find I am not getting enough heat in the OTS cabin. There is a great deal of heat loss from the soft top, so some heat soak can be good. Also I can now tell where every single draft is coming from. I'd say do the places that are hard to do later, e.g. gear box tunnel etc. and then take a step by step approach with the rest.

Thanks very much Mark.
Cheers, Peter

64etype wrote:I had the entire exhaust system ...manifolds (black), down pipes, mufflers, tail pipes... coated with silver colored Jet Hot type ceramic coating. Protects against rust and dramatically reduces radiant heat. Most industrial coating companies servicing offshore drilling operations have ovens that are large enough to handle the components. I believe it looks better than stainless once it's polished.

Thanks again Eric
Cheers, Peter

You will end up saying "Thank You" frequently Peter ! Accepted étiquette seems to be occasional general thanks, nobody will black-ball you if you don't paste and quote everyone who chips in .......... the Forum would explode in size and length if we all did that. No condescension intended, but it took me a while to get up to speed too.