First impressions

iani · Post by **iani** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:31 pm

I became the owner of a S2 2+2 manual car on Friday after wanting one for a long time. This is my first Jaguar but not my first classic, I have had 13 Triumphs with the last one still sat in my garage but for sale.

I am very impressed with my new car, unsurprisingly it has a few issues but that is part of the fun of the hobby, or so I have convinced myself over the years. One thing that does need addressing is the gearbox, when I select any gear when cold everything is fine, hot however is not so good. Reverse is quite crunchy when hot, 1st can be too but normally ok if I go via 2nd. I have ordered Red Line oil and will change this next weekend, I will also bleed the clutch, it is biting fairly low down so I'm hopeful it is ok. The engine was refitted approx 9k miles ago (Forward Engineering) so I assume a new clutch was fitted at that time. Does my fluid change & bleeding sound like the right approach?

The next query I have at this stage is over temperature, I have now covered 140 miles and the temp gauge only hits the beginning of the normal band, it will rise above if stationary but drops back down once moving. Is this normal or should I expect to see the needle in the middle?

This forum looks like a great source of inspiration & knowledge and I hope I can contribute to this.

Ian

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 6:39 pm

Approach so correct, try this first.

And for the Temperature, I guess either no Thermostat fitted or Jammed Open.

Carsten

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:10 pm

The temperature does not sound all that much adrift of normal. The bi-metallic strip gauges are not all that accurate in any event . It is fairly easy to see if the thermostat is working : if after perhaps 5 minutes running the inlet manifold is getting warm but the main top hose is still cold, you can be fairly confident that all is in order . The graunching going into gear is not normal . The clutch hydraulics are idiosyncratic, and as a result you can bleed till you are blue in the face without getting a hard pedal. The usual cause of this is that the adjustable length pushrod on the clutch slave cylinder is out of adjustment ( and probably needs lengthening ) . Also, one of the 2 types of slave that were fitted needs a return spring - I'm afraid i can't remember which one needs it - and if this is missing the slave piston does not return fully and you do not get a full stroke of the slave on pressing the pedal. If bleeding does not cure the problem I suggest you post a photo of the slave on this site and someone will try and identify it for you

Post by **Heuer** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:14 pm

80mm clutch slave needs a return spring, the 95mm 'hydrostatic' self-adjusting slave does not. The pushrods are also different lengths and part numbers (neither Angus nor I have been able to definitively work out the exact difference or which is which!).

iani · Post by **iani** » Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:39 pm

Thanks chaps, I'll carry on as planned and I'll check out the thermostat.

Ian

malcolm · Post by **malcolm** » Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:38 am

The temperasture guage on my 2+2 only just enters the normal part of the guage, but the thermostat is working. I'm ok with this, and expect to see the guage creep up more in the summer months.

iani · Post by **iani** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 6:54 pm

Gearbox - having changed the gearbox fluid to Red Line 75w90 there is no difference whatsoever, shifting into reverse or first still graunches when the car is warm. The clutch slave cyl does have a spring, it has seen better days and a new one has been ordered. My local Jaguar dealer reckons the clutch needs replacing, looking through the inspection plate the cover is certainly corroded (9k miles since fitting but 22 years)

Cooling - Thermostat housing removed today, no thermostat found. I have posted separately regarding which gasket I need as the one I have only had 3 holes, I need one with 4 (small hose from radiator to housing)

I'm very pleased with the car overall, just hope I can get the clutch sorted out and the experience will be even better.

Ian

Durango2k · Post by **Durango2k** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 7:09 pm

Hi Ian,

do you plan to drop the old Clutch Slave Cyl when you have a new one ?

Would you say it may be restorable with a kit ?

I have an early 2+2, and Need one. Mine is rotten in and out, the car was on a US scrapyard for almost 40 yrs, so I can't Save Mine.

Would you sell yours to me ?

Kind regards,

Carsten

iani · Post by **iani** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:04 pm

Durango2k wrote:Hi Ian,

do you plan to drop the old Clutch Slave Cyl when you have a new one ?

Would you say it may be restorable with a kit ?

I have an early 2+2, and Need one. Mine is rotten in and out, the car was on a US scrapyard for almost 40 yrs, so I can't Save Mine.

Would you sell yours to me ?

Kind regards,

Carsten

I wasn't planning on changing the slave unit Carsten, as I'll have it out I may change the seals but I won't be putting a new unit in. The clutch in this car has only done 9.3k miles, the problem is that this has been over 22 years so it just hasn't had enough use.

Post by **1954Etype** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:14 pm

Not sure why the clutch needs changing after this mileage. Check the master and slave and that you have the slave adjusted correctly. If all is ok then it points to the box.

iani · Post by **iani** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:20 pm

1954Etype wrote:Not sure why the clutch needs changing after this mileage. Check the master and slave and that you have the slave adjusted correctly. If all is ok then it points to the box.

Thanks Angus, could the slave rod adjustment be causing the graunching then? The car was on a ramp at a main dealer yesterday and their tech reckoned it was a clutch problem but he didn't check adjustment. The return spring is definitely worn but he didn't seem to think this would help, I have ordered a new one anyway.

Ian

Post by **1954Etype** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:37 pm

Definitely. If it isn't adjusted properly, is can't disengage fully (or wont engage properly). The spring wont make any difference to your problem. Main dealers probably wont be able to diagnose your problem. I suggest you find a local specialist to work with.

iani · Post by **iani** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:16 pm

Thanks, I'll check the adjustment myself next weekend and report back.

Ian

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:58 am

It could be that the main dealer ( although he won't have seen a manual Jaguar in decades ! ) may be right in the sense that there is a mechanical rather than hydraulic basis for your problem . If there is corrosion in the bellhousing , it may be that the splines on the first motion shaft have become slightly rusty with many years disuse and that as a result the plate is not moving freely on the splines . If adjustment of the pushrod length does not alter matters, I would not rush immediately to pulling the engine and box, but would advocate regular intensive pushing of the clutch pedal so as to work the plate on the splines, and see if this helps .

iani · Post by **iani** » Mon Mar 31, 2014 8:45 am

That's a good idea, gives me a good reason to spend some peaceful time in the garage too, starting tonight.

Ian

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First impressions

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